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Old 10-29-2014, 11:41 AM   #121 (permalink)
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dustyfirewalker

A great way to chose a turbo compressor and turbine size especially if your going BW is use their "Match Bot" program.
Performance Turbos | BorgWarner Turbo Systems
Check out their tutorial's for what does what.
You can even get creative by seeing what a draw through set up would do to the compressor map plots by changing the altitude to a higher number.

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Old 10-29-2014, 12:22 PM   #122 (permalink)
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cosmick,

i have thought about propane/cng, and yes it has a high octane and is cheap now, but i would still like to try the hot vapor multifuel thing first. and i figure if it doesnt work the way i want, ill have a decent set up for propane/cng/e85/premium and plenty of power. ive read about experimental engines running higher than 13-1 cr with kerosene and water injection. i will be monitoring EGT, AFR, and knock.

my axles are 4.10, rear is a full floater, front dana 60, i run the military runflats with magnesium rings and 37x12.5 r 16.5's. each of those tires nearly weighs 200 lb and with my bumpers and the rest of the truck it probly weighs between 5000-6000 lb. i feel like my "load" on the engine will be decent, and i usually never start in 1st unless im pulling a trailer, second just feels better ha the zf 5 speed is fun offroad.

im getting ready to add a traction bar, posi, gears, bearings to the rear end. i have a spool in it now but i want a posi. i upgraded to disc brakes on the rear aswell. it should be read to lay down power pretty soon.

and pgf pro thanks ill run some numbers on that program when im done today, once i know what im going to run ill be sure and post it. my friend whos really into drones is setting me up with arduino stuff to data log the engine sensors. i might even just start out on a voompc or something similar since my stereo has a flip out tv with video in.

ttyl
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Old 10-29-2014, 01:57 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustyfirewalker View Post
cosmick,


my axles are 4.10, rear is a full floater, front dana 60, i run the military run flats with magnesium rings and 37x12.5 r 16.5's. each of those tires nearly weighs 200 lb and with my bumpers and the rest of the truck it probably weighs between 5000-6000 lb. i feel like my "load" on the engine will be decent, and i usually never start in 1st unless im pulling a trailer, second just feels better ha the zf 5 speed is fun off road.

I'm getting ready to add a traction bar, posi, gears, bearings to the rear end. i have a spool in it now but i want a posi. i upgraded to disc brakes on the rear as well. it should be read to lay down power pretty soon.



ttyl
That explains why your mileage is low.

Lots of rotating mass, weight and parasitic losses.

You will however be ready for the Zombie Apocalypse...

Interesting project.




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Old 12-27-2014, 05:33 PM   #124 (permalink)
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happy holidays

got some pics to show, im gearing up for the multi fuel hot vapor experiment. still need to purchase parts and get time, but this christmas break has been a blast, im about to drop in a traction bar and posi in the sterling 10.25 along with its new seals and bearings and disc brakes i think this axle should put the power down and live. i wasnt crazy about running a welded locker, if i think a posi is too loose ill just go another route with a detroit or air locker, ive seen clutchless posi's too

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i feel sorry for anyone who rear ends me lol

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im proud of this stereo, it has the same specs as the last one in my boat, but the boxes and panels took so much time, (fiber glass 3/4 wood with kevlar instead of fiber topped with bedliner to match) and i bought decent wire, amps, and speakers. sounds really good, tight bass that can still hold tones with clear loud full range. its taking up as little space as possible too

[IMG][/IMG]

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this thing rocks, my rear bumper will be an airtank, this is the best 12v constant duty high flow/pressure pumps i thought i could find.

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[IMG][/IMG]

so heres the deal with the front end. massive lights, massive fans and cooling, and im going to add night-vision. ive seen multiple cheap set ups with IR cameras and spotlights. for like $150 you can have a 3 megapixel camera live feed to your dash stereo/monitor and blast IR light out the front. it works well enough im going to do it and look forward to posting it, i recommend looking it up.. in complete darkness without headlights you can see perfectly up to 450 feet in some cases. and remember anything warm like a deer or vehicle or person shows up BRIGHTLY on your nightvision screen. its not as good as what FLIR (sp?) advertises but its REALLY COOL

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and i know just about everyone reading this is thinking : why is he doing all this crap? what about the multifuel thing? lol i have the engine stripped down, and verified its an exact match on the outside. i know the heads and pistons are different but the ports are the same. so with exactly the same engine as i have in my truck, i will fabricate a draw through turbo set up with heat exchangers similar to smoky yunicks hot vapor engines. i will make my vapors rise, where he shows a constant downward path to the intake valve, and i will add water injection. i have a good Q JET, and HEI, with in a month ill have a borgwarner turbo, and flanges and stainless steel. im also buying a tig welder. more to come when i have pics worth sharing

[IMG][/IMG]

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Old 12-27-2014, 09:32 PM   #125 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustyfirewalker View Post
i wasnt crazy about running a welded locker, if i think a posi is too loose ill just go another route with a detroit or air locker, ive seen clutchless posi's too
If you would feel like going cheap, could also consider selective rear-wheel braking to emulate the effect of a diff lock, like it was done in some Brazilian RWD mini SUVs.
workaround ideas to discuss among friends: Gurgel and its cheaper alternative to a locking differential
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Old 12-27-2014, 11:48 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr View Post
If you would feel like going cheap, could also consider selective rear-wheel braking to emulate the effect of a diff lock, like it was done in some Brazilian RWD mini SUVs.
workaround ideas to discuss among friends: Gurgel and its cheaper alternative to a locking differential
On the agricultural equipment, in some parts of the world, they are known as fiddle brakes.

It would be a whole other project but I think with ABS wheel speed sensors, an ABS control module and some electronics you could arrange something that would limit the wheel speed difference across the drive axles automatically. ESC/traction control equipped vehicles do have a pump that can add power in and apply the brakes without input from the brake pedal. A simpler system could rely on braking with the left foot though.

A few years ago McLaren in F1 had a system that allowed only the inside rear wheel to be braked via an auxiliary pedal. Which wheel was able to be braked being selected with ABS style solenoid valves.
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Old 12-28-2014, 04:32 AM   #127 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Occasionally6 View Post
On the agricultural equipment, in some parts of the world, they are known as fiddle brakes.
I have already seen it in a Brazilian-made tractor, it had 2 brake pedals (didn't have brakes at the front wheels) that could be either depressed separately or at the same time with the right foot depressing both.


Quote:
It would be a whole other project but I think with ABS wheel speed sensors, an ABS control module and some electronics you could arrange something that would limit the wheel speed difference across the drive axles automatically. ESC/traction control equipped vehicles do have a pump that can add power in and apply the brakes without input from the brake pedal.
IIRC it's already implemented in some modern SUVs such as the Mercedes-Benz GLK.


Quote:
A simpler system could rely on braking with the left foot though.
Somebody could mistake it as a clutch pedal
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Old 12-28-2014, 01:23 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Nice progress!!!

dustyfirewalker did you get my PM???
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Old 12-28-2014, 02:23 PM   #129 (permalink)
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YES PGF PRO

thanks for going over the compound turbo basics with me, i decided based on your info to stick with a single. i know the turbo will act as a flame arrestor, and im pretty sure with water injection after the heat exchanges i wont worry about backfires lol

further from where i was earlier with the design i believe it will go like this

air filter - carb- coolant heat exchange - turbo - exhaust heat exchange cyclone - water injection

with the cyclone ill ensure only vapor continues on, and as its generated and rising the turbulence keeps newly formed vapor mixed well with air

now i just need a bunch of metal and time, im really enjoying working with DOM tubing for my suspension stuff, i wish i had known about it the first time i did my 1 ton swap! the traction bar will look borderline professional

your thread looks like its coming along very well, that talon is going to be FAST
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Old 12-28-2014, 11:48 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr View Post
I have already seen it in a Brazilian-made tractor, it had 2 brake pedals (didn't have brakes at the front wheels) that could be either depressed separately or at the same time with the right foot depressing both.




IIRC it's already implemented in some modern SUVs such as the Mercedes-Benz GLK.




Somebody could mistake it as a clutch pedal


i was thinking the other day how ARB air lockers are so cool because its either an open diff or locked, vs a posi all the time or locker

i just dont want to bark tires at every corner, so i dont get unwanted outstanding driver awards but i know a locker can mean serious fun when its slick, when i have money to throw away ill get the ARB in portal axles with a 5 link lol

the traction bar is almost in

GAS IS $1.77/GAL 2 miles from my shop


Last edited by dustyfirewalker; 12-28-2014 at 11:59 PM..
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