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Old 05-12-2010, 08:50 AM   #31 (permalink)
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still want to see this. so amazed

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Old 05-12-2010, 06:13 PM   #32 (permalink)
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What I was thinking was using ribbed galvinized steel such as used on a barn roof. It would be rigid if mounted perpindicular to the car and might give a reduction of drag benefit due to its sine wave like form. I'm thinking that, if properly sealed, the heat of the exhaust could be vented between bellypan and car out the rear.
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Quote:
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I think you missed the point I was trying to make, which is that it's not rational to do either speed or fuel economy mods for economic reasons. You do it as a form of recreation, for the fun and for the challenge.
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Old 05-13-2010, 02:55 AM   #33 (permalink)
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knock yourself out.

5 times the wieght per sq foot. Waves will accomplish nothing. Need many more mounting points.........did I say tooooo heavy.

Look, take a look at the underside of the audi 2011 A8. they use abs plastic not metal.
look at the underside of ANY top end car SLR Mercedes etc. They are using the LIGHTEST possible material.
THere was a guy that wanted to use skid plate because the little bumps could work as reverse dimples. SKID PLATE!!!! under the whole car!!!!
You really have to use the lightest material possible......
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ECO MODS PERFORMED:
First: ScangaugeII
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...eii-23306.html

Second: Grille Block
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...e-10912-2.html

Third: Full underbelly pan
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...q45-11402.html

Fourth: rear skirts and 30.4mpg on trip!
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post247938
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:01 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
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EDITED 12-16-09:
i.spent the morning measuring and cutting cardboard templets. THen went out to get coroplast and supplies. They had yellow 5ft x 2 ft scraps so I also got 2 sheets of yellow 4 x 8.
Where did you go to get 4X8 coroplast. Local hardware store doesnt carry it so looking for other sources please??

Don
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:28 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Don,
call a sign store. Ask who they buy supplies from. The is a local distridutor somewhere close by.

good luck

or google ......example: coroplast sacramento
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MetroMPG: "Get the MPG gauge - it turns driving into a fuel & money saving game."

ECO MODS PERFORMED:
First: ScangaugeII
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...eii-23306.html

Second: Grille Block
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...e-10912-2.html

Third: Full underbelly pan
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...q45-11402.html

Fourth: rear skirts and 30.4mpg on trip!
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post247938
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:04 AM   #36 (permalink)
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A general question about those who have the underbody molding.
How do clean the debris off the top of the coroplast? Around here it would be a half inch of mud and chips after the first wet drive. But in any environment it is going to something.

Winter salt slush.
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Old 09-29-2010, 12:14 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varn View Post
A general question about those who have the underbody molding.
How do clean the debris off the top of the coroplast? Around here it would be a half inch of mud and chips after the first wet drive. But in any environment it is going to something.

Winter salt slush.
Either enclose the area where the mud/debris gits in or hose it off now and then. Sometimes you might have to take it down to clean it up depending on how you have it supported.
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Old 09-29-2010, 10:14 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varn View Post
A general question about those who have the underbody molding. How do clean the debris off the top of the coroplast? Around here it would be a half inch of mud and chips after the first wet drive. But in any environment it is going to something. Winter salt slush.
I used some aluminum flashing to extend the rear wheelwells to wrap under the coroplast to try to keep some slush out. The sides are slightly narrower than the tires and sealed pretty tightly. But I haven't been through a winter yet. We shall see.
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The power needed to push an object through a fluid increases as the cube of the velocity. Mechanical friction increases as the square, so increasing speed requires progressively more power.

Last edited by COcyclist; 09-30-2010 at 05:55 PM..
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Old 09-29-2010, 01:07 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Coroplast probably the best stuff, from weight, smoothness, stiffness, noise, cost, ease of installation, availability, and known-factor-learn-from-others-who-already-did-it standpoints.

Sine wave stuff may have some use from a stiffness and turbulence dampening standpoints. (Ford Trimotor plane had corrugated skin, said to dampen turbulence wedges from spreading, also said to work on some whales' skins as a drag reducer.)

So, if you want to try corrugated stuff, why not go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get some of that corrugated plastic stuff for cheapo translucent carport roofing? Cheap, light, strong, comes in 2' width X 10-12' length. Some of it is fiberglass, might be as light or lighter than Coroplast per square foot. Worth a shot?
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:13 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Update 4-2011

the yellow solid material that I purchased at the same time as the coroplast got hot and warpped. and would not return to flat.
So I went back andf got black coroplast. I just installed to the Front sway bay.
I used one solid piece and one angle aluminuum in the middle.
PICS OF FRONT






I removed the middle sections and re-installed the rear panel w/ black coroplast.
PICS OF REAR













This time, I bent the coroplast to fold up toward the axel instead of cutting a seperate piece.
Made a much cleaner install




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MetroMPG: "Get the MPG gauge - it turns driving into a fuel & money saving game."

ECO MODS PERFORMED:
First: ScangaugeII
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...eii-23306.html

Second: Grille Block
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...e-10912-2.html

Third: Full underbelly pan
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...q45-11402.html

Fourth: rear skirts and 30.4mpg on trip!
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post247938

Last edited by mcrews; 06-02-2011 at 08:31 PM..
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