Unseized a $300 XFi Engine :)

[92Metro]

yeah don't know what to do next, but open it up... What about the fuel injector on these cars, is it above the throttle body there in the air cleaner? Sitting outside for four months, could that be clogged up? Only getting a considerable amount of fuel being pushed out the plug hole with cranking, from #3, nothing from #2 or #1?

Thoughts... fuel pumps kicking on also, they're running for sure as I'm turning it over.

Aaron

[Jim-Bob]

Before you start tearing things apart, go to your local Harbor Freight and get a $15 compression tester. Without a proper compression test you will just be chasing your tail. I would also test for fuel pressure, spark, etc. to see where you are at. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, pull the feed line from the throttle body, point the hose into a tin can and turn the ignition on. If it fills with fuel during the 5 second prime shot then you know the pump is working. Look down the throat of the throttle body and have someone crank the engine. The injector should pulse and squirt fuel. If it doesn't then you need to check the injector wiring to be sure it is getting a signal from the computer. you will need either a noid light or a test light to check it while cranking. If it does not pulse, find out why. It could be a bad ignition module, a bad computer, etc. and is probably not an injector if it is not getting a signal. I would also check the timing belt. These engines are non-interference so if it went there would be no damage.

Find out what works and what doesn't first before you start randomly disassembling systems. Pulling the head isn't free. On a Metro, you will need to get new head bolts ( they are 1x use) and a new head gasket at MINIMUM to put it back together ( around $100). Plus, being an XFI, it has special gapless rings that are very hard to find nowadays. So please, before you take another thing apart, do proper diagnostics and post your findings. Remember that the tools to do diagnostics are not free, but they will cost you less than the price of pulling and reinstalling the head.

Also, my car was found sitting for about a year when I got it and it didn't have a problem with the EFI.

[92Metro]

I tried the Compression tester thing already... Rented one from AutoZone, and couldn't get anything but a 0 reading on any of the cylinders, I thought I should get something- even if it wasn't what it should be, right?

Fuel System, I try that today- the pump does prime, but that doesn't mean it's "doing the job", so thanks!

Where is the injector, is it right there under the air cleaner bolt, it's above the throttles flap right, I'll clean the connectors too- signal may be distorted, "oily" from when she seized it...

Ignition Mod, seems to be working, and spark to all three plugs, tested that with all three hanging out while cranking.

Currently working on the timing cover, just to ensure the timins is on, and I'm not cranking in vain...

Thanks!

[92Metro]

One other thing I can't dismiss when it comes to the thought of a rebuild. Is when I put any kind of liquid in the cylinders. For example, when I put DW40 in them, before I started cranking it over for the first time. #3 holds it in there, and pushes it back out the spark plug hold when cranking it. #1 and #2 hold a little bit, if nothing it all, I swear it just bleads down to the crank case...

Thoughts, bottom end right, for all that I've been reading about these little engines.

**And if so, that's fine- but what Grid should I use on the "berry hone" that I buy 240grit, 120 grid, and are these Molly rings or steel rings?

What should I be buying- I plan if needed, pulling the head and doing all this while the engine is still in the car, very doable on jack stands...

Thanks,
Aaron

[IsaacCarlson]

You can use muriatic acid to clean the aluminum out of the cylinders, just don't get any on anything else..... It works great on seized up saws.

[Jim-Bob]

Okay, if the timing belt turns out to be good you probably need to do a rebuild. For a good source of information with knowledgeable people, try this site: Engine Tech & Diagnostics

One of the things I would strongly suggest is using stainless steel exhaust valves from 3 Tech. They aren't any more money that normal ones but last a lot longer. you also might have to go to normal pistons and rings instead of the special ones used in the XFI. The effect on economy should be negligible but the XFI stuff is almost unobtainable today so it's your best choice if you need an overbore.

[dcb]

check basic operation of cams and valves with valve cover off and turning engine over, then check valve timing.

[92Metro]

Originally Posted by Jim-Bob

Okay, if the timing belt turns out to be good you probably need to do a rebuild. For a good source of information with knowledgeable people, try this site: Engine Tech & Diagnostics

One of the things I would strongly suggest is using stainless steel exhaust valves from 3 Tech. They aren't any more money that normal ones but last a lot longer. you also might have to go to normal pistons and rings instead of the special ones used in the XFI. The effect on economy should be negligible but the XFI stuff is almost unobtainable today so it's your best choice if you need an overbore.

Thanks for the 3Tech source, sounds like a great place to buy from, "reusable head bolts" stuff like that, way worth it, along withe Stainless Valves...

[92Metro]

Originally Posted by dcb

check basic operation of cams and valves with valve cover off and turning engine over, then check valve timing.

I'll do this too, valves could be just "stuck huh"?

Next, checking the fuel flow to the throttle, with line disconnected.

If the injector is working, and the car is cranking, with the throttle WO I should be able to feel or see the fuel, going in or hitting the flap on the throttle body correct?

[tecrench]

Compression still 0 ? Have You got a webcam and Skype?