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Old 12-29-2010, 01:59 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Even if you can see it you still have to take it off to fix it - Your going to need a new belt - Its got damage and oil killed it - Like Jim-Bob said Put seals in it - a new belt touch her off and see what happens. I think you found why it wont run - but that being said it was stuck. There is some damage from that no matter what ! Look a Ebay -Parts are cheap - freshener up and drive it for a nother 100,00 miles.

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Old 12-29-2010, 02:17 AM   #32 (permalink)
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sorry for the missing 0 That would be 100,000 plus !!!
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Old 12-29-2010, 10:28 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Wouldn't it suck to go through all the effort of doing the timing belt and covers, get it back together, and it turns out the seals ARE weeping even just a little? Do both seals when you're in there or you'll kick yourself in a month. I've done it and learned from it.
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Old 12-29-2010, 10:23 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Yes I agree, I'll do all I should so I don't have to practice doing all this again in the near future...

It kills me... when people say one thing about a car, but as you get into it, you can tell they "tried" screwing with it, and don't say anything about it, till you find it.

I got the Pass wheel off and the water guard- got down there to the crank pulley with my light and see a "fresh" messed up bolt, one of the small five... How do I get this off, it didn't take much to get the others lose, but grabbing it with pliers is not working? An "easy out" is the next bet, or cutting a slot in the top do I can use a STD screw driver to get it off...

The joys of auto work!
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Old 12-29-2010, 10:26 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Got the front wheel off and the water guard and just found one of the five small bolts. Holding the crank pulley on, is all messed up... Nice, I love it when people jack with stuff and don't take the time to work on it right- looks fresh, like the guy I bought it from tried messing with it.

Thinking of using an "easy out" or first, cutting a slot in the top of the bolt and hopefully using a screw driver to get it out...
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Old 12-30-2010, 12:36 AM   #36 (permalink)
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On bolts the slot sometimes works, sometimes splits the head making drilling it very hard.

I would drill and easy out it.

I bet from the low comp it has jumped time.
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Old 12-30-2010, 01:39 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Update

I ripped the timing cover off, it was a hammered anyway... From what I can see, the timing is on... With the mark on the cam gear at 12 Noon on the dimple. And from this picture, not being able to get my crank pulley off yet. "The Key lock" type hump shows the timing DOT on the crank gear, in line with it- and it's at 12 Noon also... If I'm wrong let me know, it makes sense from the photo that's attached.

I also tried to get the fuel inlet line off, it was stuck well from '94... It was dry around the area until I turned the key on, twice and it was wet with fuel, so I think I'm go there.

Next is the valve cover, sucker won't come off? I don't want to damage the mating areas of the head and Vcover- what's the best way to get it off, it's just the four little bolts on top correct, to get if off?

If I have fuel coming in, could it be the injector? If I crank it over, and mash the throttle while cranking it- I should see and feel fuel passing by, through to the flap, and into the intake manifold- right? If not, it could be it right there, just raw fuel coming it, not vapor???

Thoughts, thanks Guys!
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Old 12-30-2010, 02:23 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I was told by a instructor I ad many years ago- An Engine needs 3 things !

Its SUCKS SQUESESE BANGS AND BLOWS

Then he told me if your engine does not run it is is in one of these 3 catagoriy !!

He also told me KISS Keep It Simple Stupid

I am not calling you stupid just giving you thr best advive I have ever optained. Makes me a good mechanic because we all look to far into it by nature !

That being said because I love It !

Your engine will run I promiss - ( Iliminate what is good )look and inlmiate the three - it will run !!

This amplys to alll engines and helped me all the way.
It will run - dreak a beer and back up !

Is the cam turning -during cranking ?

Is the distiburter turning during cranking ?

Do you have spark ?

Let me know John
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Old 12-30-2010, 02:55 AM   #39 (permalink)
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The G10 valve cover is a bit of a PITA. Removing it requires you to remove the stud seals with a screwdriver and a hammer or a pair of pliers. They will screw off but it is going to take a few minutes and a bit of patience to do so.

As for the injector, it should wet down the throttle plate as the injector sits over the top of it. I'll also add that you should consider getting a factory service manual off of E-Bay. If you shop for it, you should be able to get one for less than $40. I think I paid $35-40 with shipping for mine. just be sure to get the correct year as there are minor variations that are year specific.
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:07 AM   #40 (permalink)
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As for the valve cover - if you've got all the fasteners removed and it's stuck due to the gasket(s) being glued or stuck, then tap it with a mallet, or maybe gently with a hammer. If using a hammer, maybe better to put a block of wood against the valve cover and hit that.

I haven't worked on that particular engine but I've pulled off a couple sticky valve covers in my day.

And another related tip - for screws/nuts that refuse to turn. After spraying with your preferred loosener (I like PB Blaster), use a hand wrench and tap the wrench handle with a hammer. Many light taps, doing manually what an air impact wrench would do. Except you tap lighter so you don't snap the bolt if its a small one. It takes some time but it works.

If the hex is completely messed up, try a vise-grip and tap that with the hammer.

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