Unseized a $300 XFi Engine :)

[dcb]

Originally Posted by 92Metro

I'll do this too, valves could be just "stuck huh"?

it could be the belt skipped too, but it is about the easiest thing to check too, pop off the valve cover, rotate engine (bump it around in 4th), observe valvetrain, see if timing marks still line up.

[RJVLER]

Great find !
Id buy it regardless of condition. As stated above - I would check it out very well and then go ahead and fire it. Then check it again. I would place money you will find something but these things are easy to fix. Good luck - let us know how it goes.

[RJVLER]

Just another thought - sound odviously like valves are stuck open. Probabley from sitting. From my aviation experiance ( obviosly you wouldnt worry about this and just rebuild it in an aircraft). But you can adapt a metric tread to the plug hole and hit hard with compressed air such as you would perform a leak down test. Make sure the cam is in the compression stroke about middle and nail it. Might free the valve up and drive it closed? Be cautioned it will also drive the piston to the bottom so dont have it in gear. Ive been hit by a prop doing a leak down test not fun.

[92Metro]

Just about have the timing cover off, how is it suggested I break lose the valve cover, rubber hammer?

Thought I could get the TC off with out pulling the crank pulley but no...

I hope the timing is off, or valves are stuck open- but would they really stick after just 4 months of sitting? I guess the bottom end was "stiff", other things may have gotten stiff also?



Aaron

[Jim-Bob]

To take off the timing cover, you will need to pull both the crank pulley and the water pump pulley. There is a nut in the middle, 2 bolts on the bottom, 2 bolts on the top and a few more down the sides with one being next to the dipstick bolt and under the water pump pulley. All of them will be 10mm. When I serviced my cam seal I think it took me 30 minutes to get it all disassembled ( to give you an idea how long it should take). You should have already degreased and pressure cleaned the engine bay before you got to this point because it will make it MUCH easier to work on. No doubt the engine bay is probably a real grease pit due to neglect and cleanliness make it much easier to work on these things.

I'll also say that even if the engine needs a rebuild, don't give up on your Metro. $5 a gallon gas is predicted by 2012 and it will be a real lifesaver when it gets that expensive.

[92Metro]

Originally Posted by dcb

it could be the belt skipped too, but it is about the easiest thing to check too, pop off the valve cover, rotate engine (bump it around in 4th), observe valvetrain, see if timing marks still line up.

As much as I've got the timing cover off, I noticed everything is wet to some degree with oil... when the bottom was stuck, even bumping it. I could see the belt "hopping" teeth, specially with oil on it, don't imagine it would take much...

[RJVLER]

Either is posible - Your on the right track - ckeck timming first - Sorry about the pulley - We all go through that - You might be able to just pop the stuck cover - Little gental persuasion ( you know screwdriver and rubber hammer gently - it will give ). See if the cams turning at all. Maybe lost teeth on belt ? 4 Months should realistically not have stuck them unless it went through a flood or some s@#. Let us know how it goes ?

[RJVLER]

You posted before me - sounds like you found it ! - But where is the oil coming from -time will tell. I 100% agree with Jim- Bob This project will pay off for you no matter how far you have to go !

[Jim-Bob]

Sounds like your cam seal is gone. The cog is on there with a lot of torque, so you are going to have to jam the cog before you can loosen it. I used a 3 foot cheater pipe to get mine off. When you put the new seal on, make sure to clean the surfaces well with brake parts cleaner and glue the seal in place with silicone. They like to pop out due to excess pressure from bad PCV valves and the silicone prevents that. Also, the fully seated position is about 1/8 in below the surface, not flush. While you are in there, you might as well get a second cam seal and do the front crank seal as well. They are the same seal but the front main comes with the oil pump gaskets that you won't use and will just cost extra money. Expect to spend around $13 for both seals with tax. If you do the crank seal, expect it to be VERY hard to get off. Refer to this thread for the how to on replacing it: http://geometroforum.com/topic/3083546/1/

[92Metro]

Originally Posted by Jim-Bob

Sounds like your cam seal is gone. it is on there with a lot of torque, so you are going to have to jam the cog before you can loosen it. I used a 3 foot cheater pipe to get mine off. When you put the new seal on, make sure to clean the surfaces well with brake parts cleaner and glue the seal in place with silicone. They like to pop out due to excess pressure from bad PCV valves and the silicone prevents that. Also, the fully seated position is about 1/8 in below the surface, not flush. While you are in there, you might as well get a second cam seal and do the front crank seal as well. They are the same seal but the front main comes with the oil pump gaskets that you won't use and will just cost extra money. Expect to spend around $13 for both seals with tax.

Doesn't look like a seal, just a "glissening" of oil, or engine "dress up garbage"... No runs or drips, I'll spray everything off and start it without the cover, so I can see if and when oil pressure comes alive.

Question, don't you think it would be a "sweet idea" if someone made a "clear ABS plastic" timing cover, so you could see through it... That would make all of this too easy right? Looking at timing markers, leaking seals, belt condition etc...

What an idea!