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Old 10-25-2011, 01:16 PM   #141 (permalink)
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Thats looking very nice - look forward to the results.

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Old 10-26-2011, 02:41 PM   #142 (permalink)
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I love it!!
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[Old] Piwoslaw's Peugeot 307sw modding thread
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Old 10-29-2011, 12:36 PM   #143 (permalink)
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Looks awesome and can`t wait to hear what the results are. I hope you reach your goal Vekke.
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Old 10-31-2011, 08:03 PM   #144 (permalink)
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Excuse me, but you have two bugs in your project. You delete the intercooler? Why? ... the component is necessary to run efficent with the tdi! You installed the intake pipe on the right car wing. This isn't a good position. On the front is more efficent! Because there you have a ram pressure. So your compressor don't musst draw so much ;-)
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:31 AM   #145 (permalink)
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I tested my 600mm long boattail with aba test @130 km/h speed
Here are my todays boattail test results:
on N 4.7l S 4.0l
on N 4.6l no data
off N 4.9l S4.3l
off no data S4.3l
off N 4.8l S4.2l
on N 4.7l S4.1l
on N 4.7 l S4.1l

avg on N = 4,675l avg S 4,066l
avg off N= 4,85l avg S 4,266l
diff N = 3,6% diff S= 4,7%
Total difference 4,15% less fuel in this test. My test route was not perfect due to hilly motorway, but the difference is clear. Also my cars fuel gauge shows only 0.1 liter accuracy which was also little problem. That is the reason for so high speed in the test. Also during driving the differences came in the uphill sections. Without the spoiler fuel consumtion rise much more...
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:40 AM   #146 (permalink)
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A8 luxury fuel sipper - '97 Audi A8 1.2 TDI 6 speed manual
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleracer88 View Post
Excuse me, but you have two bugs in your project. You delete the intercooler? Why? ... the component is necessary to run efficent with the tdi! You installed the intake pipe on the right car wing. This isn't a good position. On the front is more efficent! Because there you have a ram pressure. So your compressor don't musst draw so much ;-)
For intercooler I dont need it when driving fuel efficiently and speeds under 100 km/h. temps are under 50 celsius. On todays aba test the intake temps were @ 75 celsius at 130 km/h speed. Also the cold winter is coming and it is totally useless at least then. It colds down the engine when you try to make it warm. Someone should calculate what is the 02 difference if intake temps are 20 celsius higher. Also there is no turbo lag and pressure lost in pressure pipes so the turbo dont have to work so hard.

On winter I will have to insulate the engine to make it warm enough.

The cold air intake was just a first aid to make the intake temps lower without intercooler. Place of that intake will change in the future. If I make different kind of setup to intake it takes lot of time due to winter times. If system is designed bad you will brake your turbo with frozen ice in the intake which is then sucked to the turbo. That happened in my hobby car in just 50 km of driving when temps went below zero degrees...
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Old 11-01-2011, 03:33 PM   #147 (permalink)
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The air density difference in 20 degrees Celsius is less than 10%, for exact numbers google it or look at this chart
http://docs.engineeringtoolbox.com/d...nsity_SI_2.png

Good job though. What was the change at 100km/h?
As always the incoming colder days are mileage killers, on my test car I already have a full upper and 85% lower grill block and it`s still too cold for the engine with air temps being a little over 0°C. But let`s keep our heads up.

Last edited by lowglider; 11-01-2011 at 03:39 PM..
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:57 AM   #148 (permalink)
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I agree with the problem of a cold engine, but this needs other improvements. On my 1.9TDI engine (with pd) on a polo 9n, the ecu reduces the power, if intake air temp. will go over 60 degrees. Over 90 degree the ecu is going to a dry-running operation. So IMO high intake air temps aren't good for the turbo.
On my car the intake air temps are only 2 - 3 degrees over the outside temperatur (continuous speed @ 120km/h).

The problem with the cold engine:
You could delete your mechanical water pump. You can replace the OEM pump with a electrical water pump. The pump only works, when the temps are going too high. So you save a lot of waste power in the pump. Your engine is warm to run efficent. With the electrical water pump you clould run an at 95 degree water temp, so its a little bit mor efficent then the OEM 85 degree.

You must search on google for the electrical waterpump: EWP 80, control box for EWP
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Old 11-04-2011, 10:45 AM   #149 (permalink)
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A8 luxury fuel sipper - '97 Audi A8 1.2 TDI 6 speed manual
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A2 1.4TDI - '03 Audi A2 1.4 TDI
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Water pump idea is good and pretty simple to execute. Maybe next time I have to change the drivebelt...

Do you have stock intercooler if temps are onyl few celsius higher? On the Lupo it was 10-15 celsius hihger at those speeds.
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Old 11-04-2011, 04:21 PM   #150 (permalink)
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Yes, when you change your drive belt, you only delete the rotor blades on your new mechanical water pump. After it you can install the electrical water pump. I wanna do the same on my 1.9TDI engine, because my mechanical water pump needs round about 3HP :-O.

No, the intercooler isn't stock. OEM there is a SMIC installed. It is too small for the 130HP engine. So I installed a FMIC. The FMIC is OEM from Seat Iibiza Cupra TDI. It has a good efficiency. But this wanna too big for your 1.2TDI engine.
Do you have pics from your deleted intercooler and pipes?

btw:
You also could install a bigger OEM air intake filter... I install a TTRS/ R32 Filter box on my car, because it has a good air flow.

How much is the weight of your battery?


Last edited by cycleracer88; 11-04-2011 at 04:36 PM..
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audi a2 3l 1.2 tdi, tuneko, vw lupo 3l.





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