04-24-2012, 12:22 AM
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#111 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drmiller100
I'm sorry you think I am condescending with a holier then thou attitude.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drmiller100
And I'm sorry my givea**** broke last week.
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Act like an adult. Have some respect.
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He gave me a dollar. A blood-soaked dollar.
I cannot get the spot out but it's okay; It still works in the store
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Today
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04-24-2012, 01:22 AM
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#112 (permalink)
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(:
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Quote:
I'm sorry you think I am condescending with a holier then thou attitude.
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That's "holier than thou". ![Thumbs up](/forum/images/smilies/grinning-smiley-003.gif)
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04-24-2012, 04:20 AM
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#113 (permalink)
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: california
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What a cluster f#$% over something so easy to test. I suppose endlessly arguing about it on the internet consumes less gas than actually testing it in real life. I tested it and it definitely reduced injector duty cycle. I'm pulling together the parts for a more permanent rig that I can actually drive around with.
Last edited by tjts1; 04-24-2012 at 11:24 AM..
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04-24-2012, 07:30 AM
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#114 (permalink)
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radioranger
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canton CT
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How about throwing a soaked sponge into the bottom of the airbox and give it a quick try, my Ranger 2.3 definitely runs like a kitten on a foggy night , Be worth it just for the improved engine smoothness. will try today going to work , about 130 miles roundtrip
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04-24-2012, 10:21 AM
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#115 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Mar 2009
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water effects
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04-24-2012, 10:41 AM
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#116 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic
I used to use a Binks #7 spray gun to feed well atomized water into the intake manifold of a 81-81 280 ZX to remove carbon deposits from the piston and cylinder head. About 1/3rd of the head was only 1 millimeter from the top of the piston and carbon buildup would cause a knock that made most people think the engine was coming apart.
We would use a pair of vise grips to lock the throttle at about 2500 RPM (air cleaner removed) then set the paint gun to a certain amount of atomized water and let her run for 15-20 minutes. It always worked, you could see the clean tops of the pistons through the plug holes and the knock was gone, and you had one tickled to death customer who had his engine knock fixed for less than 1 hours labor and no parts.
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I've done this before, only just open the TB by hand and mist the water in with a spray bottle (as I have no spray gun). A guy on a Saturn forum hooked a vacuum hose to a water tank with a small restrictor in it so that the engine would suck in a small amount of water under vacuum. His cylinders/intake manifold are CLEAN.
I've thought about doing something like this, knowing full well it would have no positive effect on fuel economy. The Saturn engine is very susceptible to carbon buildup (especially on the rings), so it may be worth the effort. The potential for added moisture in the oil would concern me though.
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04-24-2012, 12:23 PM
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#117 (permalink)
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MPGuino Supporter
Join Date: Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjts1
What a cluster f#$% over something so easy to test. I suppose endlessly arguing about it on the internet consumes less gas than actually testing it in real life. I tested it and it definitely reduced injector duty cycle. I'm pulling together the parts for a more permanent rig that I can actually drive around with.
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I guess you don't want to have your logs examined, after all.
Good luck with with your setup. It'd be interesting to hear your results.
Just one quick question, though - did you run your test while the engine was under gar and under a real load, or did you run your test while the car was parked?
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04-24-2012, 12:30 PM
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#118 (permalink)
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MPGuino Supporter
Join Date: Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProDarwin
I've done this before, only just open the TB by hand and mist the water in with a spray bottle (as I have no spray gun). A guy on a Saturn forum hooked a vacuum hose to a water tank with a small restrictor in it so that the engine would suck in a small amount of water under vacuum. His cylinders/intake manifold are CLEAN.
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Yep. Water is probably the best liquid I know of for use in cleaning combustion chamber surfaces. Doesn't take much, either.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ProDarwin
I've thought about doing something like this, knowing full well it would have no positive effect on fuel economy. The Saturn engine is very susceptible to carbon buildup (especially on the rings), so it may be worth the effort. The potential for added moisture in the oil would concern me though.
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It's not such a big concern. You'd probably do more damage if you did a bunch of drive cycles where your engine wasn't fully warmed up before you shut it down. Whatever water gets caught in the oil will evaporate out.
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04-24-2012, 01:20 PM
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#119 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
Join Date: Jul 2011
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I run water injection on the diesel and can burn a few gallons a day. I closely watch for signs of excess water in the oil, so far none.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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04-24-2012, 01:31 PM
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#120 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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When I was a teenager in the mid 1960s, Pop had a 1950 Dodge with an oil bath air cleaner. He tried replacing the oil with water, but saw no improvement in mileage. I'll bet it got rid of the carbon.
regards
Mech
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