Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > EcoModding Central
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 04-24-2012, 12:22 AM   #111 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Sven7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Warren, MI
Posts: 2,456

Boo Radley - '65 Ford F100
90 day: 13.28 mpg (US)
Thanks: 782
Thanked 668 Times in 410 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by drmiller100 View Post
I'm sorry you think I am condescending with a holier then thou attitude.
Quote:
Originally Posted by drmiller100 View Post
And I'm sorry my givea**** broke last week.
Act like an adult. Have some respect.

__________________
He gave me a dollar. A blood-soaked dollar.
I cannot get the spot out but it's okay; It still works in the store
  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 04-24-2012, 01:22 AM   #112 (permalink)
(:
 
Frank Lee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: up north
Posts: 12,762

Blue - '93 Ford Tempo
Last 3: 27.29 mpg (US)

F150 - '94 Ford F150 XLT 4x4
90 day: 18.5 mpg (US)

Sport Coupe - '92 Ford Tempo GL
Last 3: 69.62 mpg (US)

ShWing! - '82 honda gold wing Interstate
90 day: 33.65 mpg (US)

Moon Unit - '98 Mercury Sable LX Wagon
90 day: 21.24 mpg (US)
Thanks: 1,585
Thanked 3,555 Times in 2,218 Posts
Quote:
I'm sorry you think I am condescending with a holier then thou attitude.
That's "holier than thou".
__________________


  Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 04:20 AM   #113 (permalink)
Banned
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: california
Posts: 1,329
Thanks: 24
Thanked 161 Times in 107 Posts
What a cluster f#$% over something so easy to test. I suppose endlessly arguing about it on the internet consumes less gas than actually testing it in real life. I tested it and it definitely reduced injector duty cycle. I'm pulling together the parts for a more permanent rig that I can actually drive around with.

Last edited by tjts1; 04-24-2012 at 11:24 AM..
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 07:30 AM   #114 (permalink)
radioranger
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canton CT
Posts: 442
Thanks: 140
Thanked 44 Times in 33 Posts
How about throwing a soaked sponge into the bottom of the airbox and give it a quick try, my Ranger 2.3 definitely runs like a kitten on a foggy night , Be worth it just for the improved engine smoothness. will try today going to work , about 130 miles roundtrip
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 10:21 AM   #115 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 66
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
water effects

http://www.not2fast.com/NACA/naca-report-531.pdf speeds up co burning.
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 10:41 AM   #116 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Oakton, VA
Posts: 189
Thanks: 1
Thanked 24 Times in 19 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
I used to use a Binks #7 spray gun to feed well atomized water into the intake manifold of a 81-81 280 ZX to remove carbon deposits from the piston and cylinder head. About 1/3rd of the head was only 1 millimeter from the top of the piston and carbon buildup would cause a knock that made most people think the engine was coming apart.

We would use a pair of vise grips to lock the throttle at about 2500 RPM (air cleaner removed) then set the paint gun to a certain amount of atomized water and let her run for 15-20 minutes. It always worked, you could see the clean tops of the pistons through the plug holes and the knock was gone, and you had one tickled to death customer who had his engine knock fixed for less than 1 hours labor and no parts.
I've done this before, only just open the TB by hand and mist the water in with a spray bottle (as I have no spray gun). A guy on a Saturn forum hooked a vacuum hose to a water tank with a small restrictor in it so that the engine would suck in a small amount of water under vacuum. His cylinders/intake manifold are CLEAN.

I've thought about doing something like this, knowing full well it would have no positive effect on fuel economy. The Saturn engine is very susceptible to carbon buildup (especially on the rings), so it may be worth the effort. The potential for added moisture in the oil would concern me though.
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 12:23 PM   #117 (permalink)
MPGuino Supporter
 
t vago's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Hungary
Posts: 1,807

iNXS - '10 Opel Zafira 111 Anniversary

Suzi - '02 Suzuki Swift GL
Thanks: 828
Thanked 708 Times in 456 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
What a cluster f#$% over something so easy to test. I suppose endlessly arguing about it on the internet consumes less gas than actually testing it in real life. I tested it and it definitely reduced injector duty cycle. I'm pulling together the parts for a more permanent rig that I can actually drive around with.
I guess you don't want to have your logs examined, after all.

Good luck with with your setup. It'd be interesting to hear your results.

Just one quick question, though - did you run your test while the engine was under gar and under a real load, or did you run your test while the car was parked?
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 12:30 PM   #118 (permalink)
MPGuino Supporter
 
t vago's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Hungary
Posts: 1,807

iNXS - '10 Opel Zafira 111 Anniversary

Suzi - '02 Suzuki Swift GL
Thanks: 828
Thanked 708 Times in 456 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ProDarwin View Post
I've done this before, only just open the TB by hand and mist the water in with a spray bottle (as I have no spray gun). A guy on a Saturn forum hooked a vacuum hose to a water tank with a small restrictor in it so that the engine would suck in a small amount of water under vacuum. His cylinders/intake manifold are CLEAN.
Yep. Water is probably the best liquid I know of for use in cleaning combustion chamber surfaces. Doesn't take much, either.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ProDarwin View Post
I've thought about doing something like this, knowing full well it would have no positive effect on fuel economy. The Saturn engine is very susceptible to carbon buildup (especially on the rings), so it may be worth the effort. The potential for added moisture in the oil would concern me though.
It's not such a big concern. You'd probably do more damage if you did a bunch of drive cycles where your engine wasn't fully warmed up before you shut it down. Whatever water gets caught in the oil will evaporate out.
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 01:20 PM   #119 (permalink)
Corporate imperialist
 
oil pan 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
Posts: 11,188

Sub - '84 Chevy Diesel Suburban C10
SUV
90 day: 19.5 mpg (US)

camaro - '85 Chevy Camaro Z28

Riot - '03 Kia Rio POS
Team Hyundai
90 day: 30.21 mpg (US)

Bug - '01 VW Beetle GLSturbo
90 day: 26.43 mpg (US)

Sub2500 - '86 GMC Suburban C2500
90 day: 11.95 mpg (US)

Snow flake - '11 Nissan Leaf SL
SUV
90 day: 141.63 mpg (US)
Thanks: 270
Thanked 3,528 Times in 2,802 Posts
I run water injection on the diesel and can burn a few gallons a day. I closely watch for signs of excess water in the oil, so far none.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 01:31 PM   #120 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,927
Thanks: 877
Thanked 2,024 Times in 1,304 Posts
When I was a teenager in the mid 1960s, Pop had a 1950 Dodge with an oil bath air cleaner. He tried replacing the oil with water, but saw no improvement in mileage. I'll bet it got rid of the carbon.

regards
Mech

  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread


Thread Tools




Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com