Paul & Sabrina's cheap DIY 144v motor controller

[apowers]

mora , I saw the video that they first put out with the rtd explorer and they do point out that without motor feedback that is what it does.

Ok so I tried to do another test with the motor but rtd says the port does not exist. This has happened before but now it just will not connect. I spent a lot of time trying to update as the computer suggested but no fix.

Does anyone know of a different way to set parameters without the rtd explorer?

Alvin

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by apowers

Does anyone know of a different way to set parameters without the rtd explorer?

Use a serial program like Hyperterm. Connect as 19,200 baud, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit, no parity, no flow control.

Commands are listed here ... at least, this is the first post in the thread ..
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post216917

for example, to set kp
kp 2 <enter>
or
kp=2 <enter>

save is just a single word command

I copied the valid commands from the source code here as a summary. Note that you need to use t-max-rc instead of t_max_rc ... '-' is NOT the same as '_' ...

config
save
idle
restart
reset-ah
kp
ki
t-min-rc
t-max-rc
t-fault-rc
t-pos-gain
t-pwm-gain
c-rr
rtd-period
rtd
motor-os-th
motor-os-ft
motor-os-dt
pwm-deadzone
motor-sc-amps
bat-amps-lim
pc-time
mot-amps-lim


Mike

[adamj12b]

Originally Posted by apowers

mora , I saw the video that they first put out with the rtd explorer and they do point out that without motor feedback that is what it does.

Ok so I tried to do another test with the motor but rtd says the port does not exist. This has happened before but now it just will not connect. I spent a lot of time trying to update as the computer suggested but no fix.

Does anyone know of a different way to set parameters without the rtd explorer?

Alvin

Hello Alvin,

If RTD Explorer does not see the port, you will need to look in windows device manager and see what com port number it is showing up as. You can then set RTD Explorer to use that port.

If the port does not show up in the Device Manager, you will have find out why your serial port/converter is not working.

-Adam

[apowers]

Adam,

I have been trying that but I can't seem to get a fix for it. I get an error 10 on device manager, but the computer says I have the right driver for that device.

I'll keep trying. I am still using the truck. I just have to be very light on the throttle.

thanks alvin

[duncan]

Hi Guys

Just getting the Chevy battery comfortable in its new home with the massive Paul & Sabrina controller on top

Now I just have to finish the rewiring

I think that I have reprogrammed the controller with the latest file Paul sent me - 1200Amps
BuHaHAHA!

[duncan]

Hi Guys

Took the Device down for its WOF (warrant of fitness) - headlamps lost high beam so I need to take it back

On the way back I sort of gave it full welly at about 50Kph - spun both back tires and nearly crashed the thing

That did reveal a problem - it seemed to weld the Chevy contactors together,
I'm most disappointed it was only about three times the Chevy current

So now I will have to sort out some heavier duty contactors

Can you see the controller peeking out of where the NACA duct used to be?

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by duncan

On the way back I sort of gave it full welly at about 50Kph - spun both back tires and nearly crashed the thing

I believe that this sort of thing is a real problem. When you have that much power on tap, you sort of need traction control to keep you on the road!

That did reveal a problem - it seemed to weld the Chevy contactors together,
I'm most disappointed it was only about three times the Chevy current

That *IS* weird. At 3X rated current, it should not weld for 20 minutes or more.

The contactor rating should matter when you are switching ... Like if you close the contactor without precharging the capacitors, or the contactor tries to open when you are drawing high amps on acceleration.

Is it possible that the voltage sagged badly and the contactor did try to open .. and welded itself shut? I have had the contactors drop out when the 12V supply drops to 8V or 9V and the DC/DC converter output drops .. not sure how far it drops.

*EDIT* read a bit further up the thread and now know this is an IGBT build

[duncan]

Hi Things

I am using a completely separate 12v DC supply - so that should not have dropped out,

I've taken the Chevy contactors off and after a rattle they both work - I will use them for isolation for my charger

The Device is intended for the track as well as the road - but I will be thinking about making some form of traction control

re- 3 times rated load
The actual contactors are rated at 120amps - from the Panasonic spec
The Chevy is 80kw at 360v = 220amps

I was to busy to look at the CA when I lost traction but I have Paul's controller set to 1200amps

I just may have been up around 1000amps

[MPaulHolmes]

Alvin, could the current sensor cable have a bad connection? It sounds like motor amps isnt being read.

Duncan that is looking amazing!!! I am glad you are ok.

[Ecotech]

Hello, are the files required for the conversion available somewhere? Because the links from the ecomodder.com and paulandsabrinaevstuff.com are all not working.