Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > Fossil Fuel Free > Open ReVolt: open source DC motor controller
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 08-31-2016, 05:22 AM   #7131 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
apowers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tn
Posts: 126
Thanks: 14
Thanked 18 Times in 15 Posts
Hi mora,

It is disconnected from pack while I am testing with rtd. But while driving, my battery amps are jumping up to match motor amps with just a little throttle input.

It drives ok , smooth take off but too much battery amp draw. It has worked fine since 2009 till this week. My truck has not been used for a couple of months. I had the motor out and replaced brushes, but I ran the motor on the bench for about 30 hours to seat them. I will try it with a small battery and the wheels off the ground.

Thanks Alvin

  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 09-01-2016, 08:29 AM   #7132 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
apowers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tn
Posts: 126
Thanks: 14
Thanked 18 Times in 15 Posts
mora , I saw the video that they first put out with the rtd explorer and they do point out that without motor feedback that is what it does.

Ok so I tried to do another test with the motor but rtd says the port does not exist. This has happened before but now it just will not connect. I spent a lot of time trying to update as the computer suggested but no fix.

Does anyone know of a different way to set parameters without the rtd explorer?

Alvin
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2016, 02:48 PM   #7133 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saskatoon, canada
Posts: 1,278

ChargE - '92 Mazda MX6 LX
90 day: 33.89 mpg (US)

WinterTransport - '07 hyundai Sante Fe SE
Thanks: 693
Thanked 455 Times in 364 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by apowers View Post
Does anyone know of a different way to set parameters without the rtd explorer?
Use a serial program like Hyperterm. Connect as 19,200 baud, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit, no parity, no flow control.

Commands are listed here ... at least, this is the first post in the thread ..
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post216917

for example, to set kp
kp 2 <enter>
or
kp=2 <enter>

save is just a single word command

I copied the valid commands from the source code here as a summary. Note that you need to use t-max-rc instead of t_max_rc ... '-' is NOT the same as '_' ...

config
save
idle
restart
reset-ah
kp
ki
t-min-rc
t-max-rc
t-fault-rc
t-pos-gain
t-pwm-gain
c-rr
rtd-period
rtd
motor-os-th
motor-os-ft
motor-os-dt
pwm-deadzone
motor-sc-amps
bat-amps-lim
pc-time
mot-amps-lim


Mike
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to thingstodo For This Useful Post:
apowers (09-02-2016)
Old 09-06-2016, 11:56 AM   #7134 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Charlton MA, USA
Posts: 463

EVVette - '71 Chevy Corvette Coupe
Thanks: 31
Thanked 172 Times in 92 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by apowers View Post
mora , I saw the video that they first put out with the rtd explorer and they do point out that without motor feedback that is what it does.

Ok so I tried to do another test with the motor but rtd says the port does not exist. This has happened before but now it just will not connect. I spent a lot of time trying to update as the computer suggested but no fix.

Does anyone know of a different way to set parameters without the rtd explorer?

Alvin
Hello Alvin,

If RTD Explorer does not see the port, you will need to look in windows device manager and see what com port number it is showing up as. You can then set RTD Explorer to use that port.

If the port does not show up in the Device Manager, you will have find out why your serial port/converter is not working.

-Adam
__________________
www.EVVette.com - 1971 Corvette Coupe Conversion to all Electric!
www.AdamBrunette.com - Machining, CNC, Robotics and Electronics.

You can download RTD Explorer for the Cougar controllers at www.EVVette.com
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2016, 08:35 AM   #7135 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
apowers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tn
Posts: 126
Thanks: 14
Thanked 18 Times in 15 Posts
Adam,

I have been trying that but I can't seem to get a fix for it. I get an error 10 on device manager, but the computer says I have the right driver for that device.

I'll keep trying. I am still using the truck. I just have to be very light on the throttle.

thanks alvin
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 05:29 AM   #7136 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: southland NZ
Posts: 153
Thanks: 38
Thanked 81 Times in 52 Posts
Hi Guys

Just getting the Chevy battery comfortable in its new home with the massive Paul & Sabrina controller on top

Now I just have to finish the rewiring

I think that I have reprogrammed the controller with the latest file Paul sent me - 1200Amps
BuHaHAHA!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1728.jpg
Views:	166
Size:	187.2 KB
ID:	20522   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1730.jpg
Views:	141
Size:	177.5 KB
ID:	20523   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1733.jpg
Views:	136
Size:	188.9 KB
ID:	20524   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1729.jpg
Views:	139
Size:	150.9 KB
ID:	20525   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1731.jpg
Views:	110
Size:	157.7 KB
ID:	20526  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1732.jpg
Views:	110
Size:	163.1 KB
ID:	20527  
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to duncan For This Useful Post:
thingstodo (09-14-2016)
Old 09-30-2016, 04:05 AM   #7137 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: southland NZ
Posts: 153
Thanks: 38
Thanked 81 Times in 52 Posts
Hi Guys

Took the Device down for its WOF (warrant of fitness) - headlamps lost high beam so I need to take it back

On the way back I sort of gave it full welly at about 50Kph - spun both back tires and nearly crashed the thing

That did reveal a problem - it seemed to weld the Chevy contactors together,
I'm most disappointed it was only about three times the Chevy current

So now I will have to sort out some heavier duty contactors

Can you see the controller peeking out of where the NACA duct used to be?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1749.jpg
Views:	104
Size:	167.4 KB
ID:	20618   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1751.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	175.6 KB
ID:	20619   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1752.jpg
Views:	97
Size:	186.0 KB
ID:	20620   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1753.jpg
Views:	130
Size:	96.9 KB
ID:	20621  
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2016, 03:05 PM   #7138 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saskatoon, canada
Posts: 1,278

ChargE - '92 Mazda MX6 LX
90 day: 33.89 mpg (US)

WinterTransport - '07 hyundai Sante Fe SE
Thanks: 693
Thanked 455 Times in 364 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by duncan View Post
On the way back I sort of gave it full welly at about 50Kph - spun both back tires and nearly crashed the thing
I believe that this sort of thing is a real problem. When you have that much power on tap, you sort of need traction control to keep you on the road!

Quote:
That did reveal a problem - it seemed to weld the Chevy contactors together,
I'm most disappointed it was only about three times the Chevy current
That *IS* weird. At 3X rated current, it should not weld for 20 minutes or more.

The contactor rating should matter when you are switching ... Like if you close the contactor without precharging the capacitors, or the contactor tries to open when you are drawing high amps on acceleration.

Is it possible that the voltage sagged badly and the contactor did try to open .. and welded itself shut? I have had the contactors drop out when the 12V supply drops to 8V or 9V and the DC/DC converter output drops .. not sure how far it drops.

*EDIT* read a bit further up the thread and now know this is an IGBT build

Last edited by thingstodo; 09-30-2016 at 03:09 PM.. Reason: IGBT build - removed question
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2016, 08:45 PM   #7139 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: southland NZ
Posts: 153
Thanks: 38
Thanked 81 Times in 52 Posts
Hi Things

I am using a completely separate 12v DC supply - so that should not have dropped out,

I've taken the Chevy contactors off and after a rattle they both work - I will use them for isolation for my charger

The Device is intended for the track as well as the road - but I will be thinking about making some form of traction control

re- 3 times rated load
The actual contactors are rated at 120amps - from the Panasonic spec
The Chevy is 80kw at 360v = 220amps

I was to busy to look at the CA when I lost traction but I have Paul's controller set to 1200amps

I just may have been up around 1000amps
  Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2016, 02:06 AM   #7140 (permalink)
PaulH
 
MPaulHolmes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
Posts: 3,798

Michael's Electric Beetle - '71 Volkswagen Superbeetle 500000
Thanks: 1,358
Thanked 1,093 Times in 719 Posts
Alvin, could the current sensor cable have a bad connection? It sounds like motor amps isnt being read.

Duncan that is looking amazing!!! I am glad you are ok.

__________________
kits and boards
  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread


Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Paul and Sabrina's Cheap 3 Phase Inverter (AC Controller) with Field Oriented Control MPaulHolmes Fossil Fuel Free 3278 07-24-2018 11:24 PM
Paul & Sabrina's Cheap EV Conversion MPaulHolmes Fossil Fuel Free 542 11-12-2016 09:09 PM
Three Dirt Cheap DIY Electric Cars - Part 5 SVOboy EcoModder Blog Discussion 0 12-12-2008 04:10 PM



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com