2002 Honda Civic LX auto - repair & modding

[darcane]

Originally Posted by California98Civic

That's interesting. If the poly bushing alone was cheaper than a full control arm replacement with rubber bushings, I'd possibly rethink them. Seems slightly more sensible to replace only the failing part (the bushing) rather than the fail and a perfectly serviceable part (the control arm). How much of a cornering difference does the poly bushing make?

I really couldn't tell you. I changed a LOT all at once and went from crappy, worn out bits to brand new.

On other cars that I've done, switching from rubber to poly made a noticeable difference but not huge.

[darcane]

Originally Posted by Daox

Have you had any issues with squeaking?

Thanks, I'll definitely take a look at the engine mounts.

I'll probably leave the power steering. I'm still not sure what I'm going to do with the car. I may just flip it for some cash. If it were manual I'd keep it in a heartbeat... but its not. Yet, its a lot cleaner and its more efficient than the Sunfire... Decisions.

No squeaking from up front where I put the poly bushings in. I used all the grease the kit came with.

My rear suspension squeaks a lot, but I didn't do anything back there with the bushings...

I'd lean towards flipping it and using the cash to get what you actually want. I've had my '01 for 20k miles now and the following are things I've had to deal with on my car that I discovered are "common problems":

• Head gasket.
• Tranny failure.
• Compliance bushings.
• Motor mount failure.
• Seat belt latch.
• Blower motor power transistor.

And I suspect there will be more to add to the list (or maybe I'm just getting frustrated with it). I've also fixed quite a number of other things, but those I chalk up to regular maintenance (timing belt, clutch, shocks/struts, brakes, battery, etc). My repair-time to drive-time ratio is getting way out of whack on this car.

Considering the condition of the car, you should get a good price in your area. Of course, that may also be a reason for you to hang onto it...

[sarguy01]

I did my bushings a few weeks ago. I replaced both the front and rear control arm bushings and the ball joints, since everything was already apart. I even did new axle seals in the transmission.

Getting the control arms off is easy. With a press, the front bushing takes 5 minutes. The rear however, will not come out in the press. I had a pile of cones and adapters and the stupid control arm will not fit in a press in order to get the rear bushing. But, the good news is, the rear bushing is probably not nearly as worn as the front and probably won't need to be replaced. If you want to replace it, drill a bunch of holes in the rubber and then hammer the center of it out. Once it's out, cut the bushing sleeve with a sawzaw or hack saw. Just remember, the sleeve is thin and you could go right through it like I did and then half way through the control arm...

Ball joints took 5 minutes a side as well. The ball joints are in the spindle, not the lower control arm.

If I were to do it again, I'd just buy new control arms with bushings installed from Rockauto!!

[MetroMPG]

Sell! (Honda) Sell! (Sunfire)

But you knew I was going to say that.

[Daox]

Haha, yes I did know you'd say that.

I guess my question about the alignment still remains. Is there any way to replace that bushing without needing an alignment afterwards?

[Miller88]

I don't think it was posted on the first page - but any engine is going to be producing condensation when cold. I wouldn't necessarily say the head gasket is leaking internally or that the rings / valve seats are letting oil get into the combustion chamber.

The Honda automatics are pretty neat. They are pretty much an automated manual transmission. The few I have drove always lock the torque converter at lower speeds and allow the cars to get better mileage than something else with a conventional automatic.

[sarguy01]

Originally Posted by Daox

Haha, yes I did know you'd say that.

I guess my question about the alignment still remains. Is there any way to replace that bushing without needing an alignment afterwards?

Sorry I didn't reply sooner, I am in the middle of painting and tearing my house apart getting ready for hardwood floors.

The control arm bolts do not adjust the alignment. But, I noticed after I replaced the worn out bushings with the new bushings, that my alignment is just a little off. The way to adjust the camber is to get camber bolts for the two bolts that attach the strut to the spindle.

So, I'd replace the bushings and if the alignment is off, get the alignment done at a place that offers a "lifetime" alignment.

[Daox]

I worked on the Civic for a few hours this weekend. I removed more stuff from the engine. Still got a little ways to go.

I uncovered another part in need of repair. Seeing as a new manifold/cat combo is about $225, I think I'll take a shot at welding it up. Any other solutions?

[California98Civic]

That happened to mine a few years ago, and it was before I started doing the auto repairs myself. A mechanic replaced it for me with "new" used. I don't think there are many options besides welding or replacing. But there was another thread on this topic on the 1992-2000 Civics a few months ago that might have more to offer: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...old-21411.html

Hoping that helps,
james

[Daox]

Thanks for the link. The VX manifold (from the pics) is similar, but not the same. Mainly, its cast. Welding a cast part does make it prone to cracking. Thankfully, this manifold is stamped steel. It should be more resilient to cracking after welding.