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Old 06-25-2019, 08:46 PM   #221 (permalink)
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Since I'm going the meanwell route now, I removed the DC-DC and all it's glory out of the car today, as well as the frame I had started constructing for it.

Current plan is to integrate the meanwell into the "design" of the rear, i.e. not make it obvious and out in the open, yet maintain decent enough airflow to keep it cool. I have an idea on how I'm going to accomplish this, but it isn't set in stone yet.

I repurposed the aluminum support bar that was underneath the IMA box and will be using it to support the meanwell psu. I could've made an aluminum support bar but for the fanciful idea that the aluminum bar will help with heat dissipation some. Attached in existing holes. Measurements of the meanwell are less than 9"x5"x3" so it should fit fine in the area to the driver's side of the fuel tank.



Vacuumed out the rear and began to lay underlay, but then it started raining so I stopped for the evening. Current plan is underlay, foam board, underlay, plywood, underlay, carpet.



Progress so far:



Hopefully it isn't raining tomorrow before I go into work so I can make more progress.

Meanwell and rectifier arrive Thursday.

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Old 06-26-2019, 11:21 PM   #222 (permalink)
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A little bit of progress!



The S2000 ebrake came today. It will require a little bit of modification to fit, but it should work well. The handle is a little shorter and higher than the stock one, and looks much better. Will be making an aluminum bracket to bolt it on since the holes do not line up between the two. That project will happen after I finish the rear carpet and get that meanwell unit installed tomorrow after arrival.
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Old 06-27-2019, 11:52 PM   #223 (permalink)
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Got my HRP-600-15 Meanwell PSU installed today.

Not sure what the exact voltage is I set it to, but it runs at 14.2-14.5 volts on the 12V side per the Scangauge. Under load it's anywhere from 13.2 to 14.1 volts.

No pictures because installation is pretty messy. Basically just insulated all wires, verified that it works, and then tied it up so it won't roll around everywhere. Will obviously clean things up later and then post pictures.

First impressions after installing.

- The fan is loud! Definitely going to upgrade. I'm assuming I can just reuse the wiring from the stock fan on the meanwell?
- The voltage drops much faster than with the stock DC-DC. I haven't driven it yet; just played around with various loads and various RPMs in neutral. Adding load seems to make the voltage drop 2-4 times as much as with the DC-DC.
- Most of the time at a 1100 RPM idle (<20 mph arduino makes ECU think IMA is empty, so idle is 1100 RPM vs 900 RPM) even with the base load, the meanwell cycles on and off every second or so, as if it isn't getting enough voltage. IMA voltage cycles between 70V and 100V as the meanwell turns on and off. Is this normal meanwell behavior, or is something wrong? Taking it to 1200 or 1300 RPMs keeps it on fine. I didn't install a relay, but will be getting a manual kill switch to disconnect the ground at will, partly because I want control over it and also now to turn it off at low RPM so it stops cycling on and off. Sometimes it works fine and maintains 14.2-14.5 volts at 1100 RPM, but fewer times than not.

I supposed my main question is, since the voltage falls by 1-1.3 volts whenever I add load (high beam headlights, hazards (only lights not LED), radio), what voltage should I set the meanwell to? As mentioned with no load and at 1200+ RPM it's at 14.2-14.5 volts according to the Scanguage, but with load it varies between 13.2 and 14.0 volts. With voltage drop my guess is that the meanwell is set to somewhere around 14.6-14.7 volts?

If I lower the voltage, I'm guessing I would get more amps at idle, but then when I add load the voltage would drop below 13 volts.

I'm new to this! We'll see what happens and what new "quirks and features" (#DougDemuro) I discover about the meanwell after driving it around for deliveries tomorrow.

----------

EDIT:

Installation pics attached. Note that this is a very crude first install - I just wanted to get it up and running late last night so I can drive the car this morning. I'll work on attaching it better and whatnot instead of just using zip ties. Also planning on putting better insulation besides 2-3 layers of electrical tape to secure the 3 input leads apart, since they are currently about 2-4mm apart from each other.

Only wire used was a 10-gauge wire (red, only color wire I had) to connect the negative of the rectifier to the meanwell. The positive lead is bolted directly on. The high voltage leads are bolted directly to the rectifier. The 12V output leads are bolted directly to the meanwell. Idea is to reduce the number of connections to avoid voltage drop, etc.

I did not install a relay; I will be getting a manual kill switch for the meanwell here in a few days that I will be installing on the ground wire to manually turn the meanwell unit on and off.

Let the car idle for a few seconds cold this morning. At the 1500 RPM idle it has for the first few seconds running cold the meanwell charged at 14.3-14.6 volts, 14.4-14.5 was most common, and with high beams and radio on stayed at 14.2-14.5 volts, 14.2-14.3 most common. My guess is that the voltage drop under load happens more when running at lower RPMs, such as 1300 and below.

If I find that it can handle the load well, I may turn the voltage down to get more amperage at idle.
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Old 06-28-2019, 11:26 PM   #224 (permalink)
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Meanwell update

I frickin' love this meanwell unit.

I have the voltage set to output 14.5 volts at base load. With load at night this varies between 14.0 and 14.5 volts, according to the Scangauge.

This car can easily support the base load + radio running as low as 900 RPM, and most of the time when running at 800-850 RPM. As is, the car must be at 1200 RPM or higher for at least 2.5 seconds for the meanwell to power on. Once it does, it maintains at least 14.0 volts down to the RPM levels I mentioned. Didn't use headlights today but radio and power windows + base load work at those low RPMs with no rectifier bypass. This is charging my 12V much better than the stock DC-DC did.

That fan is still too noisy lol.

Mileage was also a bit higher today, but it was also finally warm - 80s out, so that may be the contributing factor. Got almost 90 MPG over 80-ish miles doing pizza delivery and over 110 mpg on my drive to work and back.

The car definitely accelerates a bit faster with all the IMA stuff gone from the back, and climbs hills with less throttle.

Got autostop once today with leanburnminactivationspeed on the arduino IMA bypass set to 25 (20 mph). It almost autostopped 3 other times. Didn't get autostop when the parameter was set to 30 (25 mph). Going to try setting it to 26 (21 mph) and see if I can find the lowest value that doesn't give me any autostop. This may take me a while because I EOC to 90% of my stops.
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Old 06-29-2019, 09:12 AM   #225 (permalink)
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Here was my Meanwell internal rectifier bypass. Basically just soldered two short wires on top of the existing solder, worked great.

Glad to hear it's working out for you!
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Old 06-29-2019, 02:06 PM   #226 (permalink)
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Found a silver Insight for sale in Detroit for $500. Missing wheel skirts and passenger seat. Headlights need cleaning. Not much info given but only $500. resists the urge No, I don't need a second Insight, even if it is only $500. https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/c...920556491.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky View Post
Here was my Meanwell internal rectifier bypass. Basically just soldered two short wires on top of the existing solder, worked great.

Glad to hear it's working out for you!
A bit hesitant to modify it when it's working well so far; if I find later on the current demand is too much at lower RPM I'll consider it. But I'll have to do several practice solders first because my soldering skills are pretty much non-existent lol.
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Old 06-29-2019, 02:16 PM   #227 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpg_numbers_guy View Post
I frickin' love this meanwell unit.

I have the voltage set to output 14.5 volts at base load. With load at night this varies between 14.0 and 14.5 volts, according to the Scangauge.

This car can easily support the base load + radio running as low as 900 RPM, and most of the time when running at 800-850 RPM. As is, the car must be at 1200 RPM or higher for at least 2.5 seconds for the meanwell to power on. Once it does, it maintains at least 14.0 volts down to the RPM levels I mentioned. Didn't use headlights today but radio and power windows + base load work at those low RPMs with no rectifier bypass. This is charging my 12V much better than the stock DC-DC did.

That fan is still too noisy lol.

Mileage was also a bit higher today, but it was also finally warm - 80s out, so that may be the contributing factor. Got almost 90 MPG over 80-ish miles doing pizza delivery and over 110 mpg on my drive to work and back.

The car definitely accelerates a bit faster with all the IMA stuff gone from the back, and climbs hills with less throttle.

Got autostop once today with leanburnminactivationspeed on the arduino IMA bypass set to 25 (20 mph). It almost autostopped 3 other times. Didn't get autostop when the parameter was set to 30 (25 mph). Going to try setting it to 26 (21 mph) and see if I can find the lowest value that doesn't give me any autostop. This may take me a while because I EOC to 90% of my stops.
Why donít you want autostop if youíre EOCing to a stop anyway?
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Old 06-29-2019, 10:54 PM   #228 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Why donít you want autostop if youíre EOCing to a stop anyway?
Imagine you roll into an intersection to, and expect to slip between a break in traffic to cross the road. You tap the brakes, and the engine dies. The car expects the IMA system to be working so key-on restart is disabled. You have to fully turn the car off and back on before you can get the engine running again.

If the engine dies every time you put your foot on the brake below 22mph, it can be very dangerous in certain conditions.
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Old 06-30-2019, 01:11 AM   #229 (permalink)
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^ what Ecky said. I want to have control over when the car is shut off and when it is not, and not have it just randomly autostop on me in the middle of an intersection or when I'm not prepared for it.

----------

Ordered an Arctic F9 92-mm fan for the Meanwell and some thermal paste for getting it permanently mounted. Plan is to mount the meanwell on it's side once the new fan is installed.

Meanwell shuts off below 900 RPM most of the time, and with a moderate load shuts down below 1000 RPM, and with a heavier load shuts down below 1100 RPM. Car still starts fine even if the meanwell is off for a while. I did some driving on dirt roads and around some mobile home parks today at slow speeds in 4th gear right around 800-850 RPM (getting over 100 MPG) with the meanwell off for about 3 miles/10 minutes. Voltage didn't really drop much so no big deal. Even with the occasional times when the meanwell doesn't power on my 12V battery is staying charged much better than with the stock DC-DC.
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Old 06-30-2019, 09:24 AM   #230 (permalink)
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Happy to bypass the internal rectifier if you want to buy a second one and send it to me. Mine basically never shut off, that I was aware.

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