89 civic wagovan 5spd (very slow build: power + ecomods & lots of pics!)

[vrmouseyd15b]

okay, so here is what I've disovered about the "oil jets" I will need one in this motor combo, because the non-vtec motors have this on the block and vtec motors have this in the head.

if I run a vtec block (d16z6) and a non vtec head (d15b2), there is no oil jet. that could possibly starve the bottom end of the motor for oil, since the path of least resistance would be the missing jet's location. or the oil could all get pumped into the head, block the drain passages, and hydrolock itself into the head, or other seriously scary things could happen, inlcuding night tremors, rectal bleeding, painful urination, etc, etc....

on a more serious note, this is the oil jet on the block of the stock d15b (non-vtec), above and between the middle two cylinders (the shiny thingie - I've got it semi pulled out already)


here it is up close:




so this oil jet thingie has to go into the non-vtec (d16z6)block here:


but the damn oil jet is too fat to go into the vtec block! I've been clicking all over the interweb to try and see if a smaller one is available, but no

looks like I'm going to have to drill this opening out a little on the vtec block (SCARY)
...that can be put off a little longer, but I'm going to have to bite the bullet here pretty soon on that one (gaskets are on the way)

went to town this afternoon on the old non vtec head, knocked a lot of "varnish" off the top end:



also did a thouroughly terrible job getting the old head gasket off the head:


I did manage to get the vtec block's mating surface pretty sexy clean though:



with any luck, tomorrow I'll have an engine stand here to get the bottom end of the vtec block checked out and ready for a new oil pan gasket and possible oil pump filter.

I've decided that the sexy "hooter's cream" colored VX tranny will have to wait even longer to go into "Skiddy", since the bearing and seals kit is the same part number for both the original and replacement trannies, I'm just going to rebuild the stock wago tranny when it comes out with the dead block, and hopefully have something that I can put some miles on for a while and enjoy while the next motor gets built over the coming year!

that's the update for now


Thanks,
Victor

[Cobb]

Thats not what I was talking about, but its still important.

I was referring to a jet that squirts oil up under the piston and cylinder wall to lube the piston pin/wrist pin. Its either 1 for all cylinder or none, not every other cylinder. Maybe honda doesnt do this?

Yes, oil psi regulation is important and flow. Many engines are blown because people rev em to the point the oil is pumped to the top of the engine faster than it can drain back to the pan and it starves of oil. Another issue is the rods slings the oil out faster than the pump can replenish it if the volume or psi isnt up to par and bearing clearances.

Alot of the newer honda engines that can give vtec errors have a pressure sensor and if the oil psi isnt there it faults and wont engage vtec.

FYI, a lot of gen 1 insight owners have found this error is related to the vtec screen getting clogged up and blocking oil flow. Not many guys engage vtec on an insight though.

[vrmouseyd15b]

I thank you, Cobb!

I've never driven a " normal " vtec motor, I went from a d16y7 - 1.6 non vtec to the d15b dual vtec! My d15b is jdm, it uses the lower end oil sensors, no actual vtec oil pressure sensor. But I am familiar with the concept

Time to pick up my engine stand! !

Thanks,
Victor

[Cobb]

I am not sure what Honda considers the "normal" vtec motor. Maybe its the design that opens the second set of intake valves at 2500 rpms? They have had quite a few series of operations.

Typically dual valve timing technology is something new for economy vehicles with both intake and exhaust has adjustments made during the power band. Im guessing in this case dual vtec doenst mean that, but its still on the intake cam switching from 1 valve to 2, then to another lobe.

Toyota recently went to dual vvt on the scion xd when it was released as well as the carolla and a few other vehicles from that model year. Same with honda.

Of course honda has added VCM, the ability to switch cylinders off and on. Previously they were limiting valve openings like on the gen 2 insight. It either leaves the valves in neutral or close, opens them fully or opens they partly depending on mode and its both intake and exhaust. Some say the "vtec" lobe is flat. Id like to take it to a machine shop and get it reground to an economy ground, ported, polished and milled for a higher cr.

Here is what I was talking about with the piston upskirting oil jet.

[vrmouseyd15b]

Originally Posted by Cobb

I am not sure what Honda considers the "normal" vtec motor. Maybe its the design that opens the second set of intake valves at 2500 rpms? They have had quite a few series of operations.


Here is what I was talking about with the piston upskirting oil jet.

By "normal", I meant single stage vtec! Everybody's got one of those Just kidding!!


I see what you mean for the piston lubrication now- I think the honda goes thru the block, or at least somewhere I can't see without tearing it apart futher.
It looks like the oil sump pulls into and primes the oil pump, and the pump looks like it pushes thru the manifold that rides below the oil sump and screen assembly:


the line that goes to the top end is the "Y" in the manifold that feeds the cylinders. in the second picture, you can see how it turns 90 degrees to go up to the head. in that turn, there is an access bolt (hex-looks like about 4mm). I'm going to open it there and run a hose into it to pressurize the oil jet's hole while I drill the top side of the block to accept the "oil jet" so nothing falls into the block

and then, for the top end where the "oil control jet" as Honda calls it goes. Seeing the size of the plumbing for the cylinders' lubrication (and the top end gets the same if not a bigger line), it makes sense that this jet is called the oil control jet:


without the jet, this becomes the path of least resistance in the system, and you either starve the clyinders or hydrolock the head's drains and cavitate the oil pump straight to the great big junkyard in the sky...
Better install the oil jet.

but not any time soon (maybe late tonight). just thinking and clicking around in between checking on the turkey and ham! Gluttony is on the menu tonight!!

Happy Thanksgiving, Ecomodders

Thanks,
Victor

[vrmouseyd15b]

Ok. Long break. All the parts came in, here's what you missed.

My buddy came over and helped me pull the motor once I got my hoist. I separated the motor and tranny. rebuilt the tranny, and glad I did. The differential bearings were pretty crunchy (didn't bother taking pictures of the guts, it looks just like a vx tranny inside with the big aluminum shift forks, and I have pictures of the last two vx's guts) and different mounts outside. I only cleaned it up enough to get the case open without getting crap inside





then I had to tackle the oil jet. Here's how that went.
I opened the oil passage with an 8mm hex



then I rigged up my air line with a 1/4 inch plastic tubing and zip tied the handle to the engine stand, then zip tied the nozzle on full blast:



Measured the new block opening sorry it's upside down


Measured the oil jet


Did some "math"


Got a drill bit (only used the 25/64 bit)




Turned the air on, held my breath, and drilled the hole out, and voilà! OIL JET!!!



Big hurdle crossed, I put the motor together




Since I will be re-using the 1989 tranny, it's important to note that I put the 1989 flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate on the motor as well to avoid possible issues with spline counts, flywheel bearing, etc. .. married the motor and tranny and dropped the whole package into the engine bay



and haven't had time to play since but the old lady got me a deal and a half on 4 new tires at farm and fleet and since Skiddy is on jackstands, I jumped! - $275 Mount, balance, and road hazard 40k tires. They need more air!



And that's as far as I've come now. Motor needs oil, tranny needs synchromesh, cv axles need to go back in, intake manifold, wiring, plumbing, etc. Etc.

Hope all my pictures don't "break the interweb"

Quick and dirty sure is slow around here, isn't it?


Thanks,
Victor

[OG VX]

Awesome update! Some serious work going down on this project.
Keep it up Victor!

Also, thanks for cleaning the bay while it was out. Never understood why I see builds with engines coming out entirely with no 30/60 minutes spent to deep clean the bay while the engine is out of the way...

[vrmouseyd15b]

Motor complete! Everything is connected, fluids filled.

She started right up for me! I couldn't get the radiator fan to come on when I did my start up and bleed the cooling system. Looks like the fan's been replaced once already. Not even wire nuts, just electrical tape! I'll look into that tomorrow morning.

Skiddy's back!



I'll list all my "deletes" tomorrow as well!


Thanks,
Victor

[vrmouseyd15b]

I was going to take Skiddy to work today. That was the plan, anyway. Skiddy wasn't ready to go to work just yet! I tried to take her, but this morning, the speedo crapped out on me again - it was making terrible noises and bouncing from 0-120 REALLY FAST

I had been getting CEL's since I first drove this car.
a code 17 - vechicle speed sensor and a code 6 - coolant temperature sensor


got the code 17! that one, I didn't go by the book as much as the other, but the previous owner stated that the speedo didn't work. I have already had the transmission apart, and verified that the vss gear is in fact in place inside the tranny, and not stripped out! it does turn freely (being driven by the pinon, and the plastic gears mesh nicely from the pinion speed gear to the VSS gear) Last night, I took the dash gauge apart and found the speedo cable wasn't even connected to the gauges!! I popped it back on and went around the block - succcess!
This is the speedo cable behind the dash:


and how it connects to the back of the gauge:


In fact, it only worked until I got to about 45mph this morning. then it started going crazy. I pulled over and popped the hood and pulled the speedo cable out of the tranny. I turned aound and got the minion, and went to work today
When I got home, I was determined to get to the bottom of this speedo issue once and for all! so I pulled the gauge cluster again, and took the speedo out of the gauge pod:


The book says to take a pencil and break the tip off, and use it to turn the speedo. Mine didn't want to turn with a little screwdriver! I sprayed all the little gears with lube and gave it a good push, and it started working again. then I was able to spin it with my broken pencil! Just for good measure, I got the drill out and put a few miles on the clock (about2.6 miles at 100mph - damn good drill) no popping, noises or vibration, so good to go!



got the code 6! the FSM says that for a code 6 , get motor to operating temp (cooling fan cycles), ignition off, key on & check reistance on the 2 pin (TW - coolant temp.) sensor on the head, kinda under the dizzy, but closer to the front. should be 200-400 ohms. (I read 295 on mine - book says outside this range, replace sensor).
Then it said to check the red/wht wire from that molex to ground and look for about 5 volts. I'm good there (book says if not, check for short between ECU (C6) and red/wht at sensor, or bad ECU).
Then check for about 5 volts between the red/wht and grn/wht pins at this connector,and I got it (book says if not, check for short between ECU (C12) and grn/wht at connector, or bad ECU). I did end up soldering the wires to the radiator fan, just in case - they were only electrical taped before!

Somehow, I was getting the code 6. after testing everything, it all checks out (motor wasn't actually getting hot, by the way), and since the speedo has been working, no CEL's at all for about the last 42 or so miles!



Skiddy and I are looking forward to a nice cruise to work and back tomorrow. I stole the head unit from my minivan, the "green machine" so Skiddy can have some tunes. Hooked up to the (front only) speakers in the car, and ready to go!

Now I've got to try and find some rear speaker pods and finally install (delete) the passenger mirror with the blank-off I got from Gasolinefumes
The interior blank off dude from Ebay screwed me with the "out of stock" crap. gotta find an interior cover again

-still haven't taken pistures of my "delete" pile from Skiddy



Thanks,
Victor

[Gasoline Fumes]

Originally Posted by vrmouseyd15b

Now I've got to try and find some rear speaker pods and finally install (delete) the passenger mirror with the blank-off I got from Gasolinefumes
The interior blank off dude from Ebay screwed me with the "out of stock" crap. gotta find an interior cover again

I'll take another look around. I should have two of them somewhere....