04-14-2012, 02:41 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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94 VX Kill switch help needed
I am trying to wire a kill switch based on the following post.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post157489
The post is pretty clear so I think I know what to do regarding wiring to the PGM FI but I need help with the switch. Instead of using a generic switch, I ordered an OEM Cruise On/Off switch that will go in the dash from Ebay. I looked at the wiring diagram for it and I think that I need to use pins 1 and 2 and ground 3 but this is where my questions come in. I have done very little with wiring and I don't want to mess anything up in hooking this up.
1. I was having trouble checking this with continuity tester but finally got it to work. When the switch in pushed in or "on" I get continuity between pins 1 and 2. Can someone confirm what I think I should wire? I think I would take the black wire from the PGM FI and run it to either pin 1 or 2 and then take a wire back from either 1 or 2 back to the PGM FI box. Correct? Do I need the ground on pin 3?
2. What is the best way to wire things up to the switch? Should I try to get the plug with the wires attached that would plug into the switch or can i just solder onto the pins once I know which ones are the correct ones to use?
Thanks in advance.
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Last edited by 1carnut; 04-14-2012 at 02:55 PM..
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04-14-2012, 05:26 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1carnut
I am trying to wire a kill switch based on the following post.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post157489
The post is pretty clear so I think I know what to do regarding wiring to the PGM FI but I need help with the switch. Instead of using a generic switch, I ordered an OEM Cruise On/Off switch that will go in the dash from Ebay. I looked at the wiring diagram for it and I think that I need to use pins 1 and 2 and ground 3 but this is where my questions come in. I have done very little with wiring and I don't want to mess anything up in hooking this up.
1. I was having trouble checking this with continuity tester but finally got it to work. When the switch in pushed in or "on" I get continuity between pins 1 and 2. Can someone confirm what I think I should wire? I think I would take the black wire from the PGM FI and run it to either pin 1 or 2 and then take a wire back from either 1 or 2 back to the PGM FI box. Correct? Do I need the ground on pin 3?
2. What is the best way to wire things up to the switch? Should I try to get the plug with the wires attached that would plug into the switch or can i just solder onto the pins once I know which ones are the correct ones to use?
Thanks in advance.
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Your idea for a switch is great! OEM look is cool, when you can get it. But you might otherwise be making this more complicated than necessary. I do not know what the switch looks like, but the design you cite calls for interrupting the ground with the switch. All you need is to cut the ground wire and use butt-splice connectors to link to the switch. It can be very easy. No soldering required. Do I misunderstand something about the switch?
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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04-14-2012, 06:27 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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I tried to take a picture of the back of the switch but I couldn't get it to turn out. Basically there are 5 what I would call pins that a plug (harness) would slide over. Since I am not using a factory plug, I need to find a good way to connect the wire from the PGM FI unit to one and run a wire back to where the PGM FI wire came from to complete the circuit from the other pin. I think that the others are used for the light in the switch and ground which I am not worried about. My thinking is that with the switch pushed in the injectors would be on and with it out, off. I looked for the grey box marked PGM FI and did not see it. Will have to take a closer look.
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04-15-2012, 07:39 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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I got this done today. It ended up being really easy once I gave up on trying to connect wires to those pins. I just went to the salvage yard and snipped out the connector to the cruise control switch of another civic and a few inches of wire. After that I pretty much followed this thread.
Kill Switch for 5th gen (92-95) Civics - GasSavers.org - Helping You Save at the Pump Hypermiling and Fuel Efficiency Forum
For my 94 VX I figured out that fuse #2 was the 15 amp that controlled the fuel injectors so I put the fuse in an inline fuse holder and ran two wires to the top two wires on the pigtail from the Cruise switch. Just put male spade connectors on the other end and plugged them back into each side of where I took the fuse out of the fuse box.
Just took a test drive and it works fine. The speedo falls to 0 and the check engine light comes on when the switch is released (off) but the engine quits almost immediately. Just push it back in and the check engine goes away and the speedo comes back on and you are ready to bump start whenever you are done with EOC.
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10-29-2014, 03:15 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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JDM hypeR mileR
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Bump! Hoping for pics and/or more details about using the OEM rear defroster and/or cruise control switch (I understand that they are, essentially, the same switch design; not confirmed though) as a panel mounted, OEM-looking, kill switch.
Can anyone provide details (with wire colors, if possible) about where to run each wire from a factor 92-95 VX rear defroster switch, with a connector/pig tail cut from a junk yard?
If possible, I'm hoping for the switch to be illuminated, but it's not a must.
Thanks!
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10-29-2014, 04:13 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OG VX
Bump! Hoping for pics and/or more details about using the OEM rear defroster and/or cruise control switch (I understand that they are, essentially, the same switch design; not confirmed though) as a panel mounted, OEM-looking, kill switch.
Can anyone provide details (with wire colors, if possible) about where to run each wire from a factor 92-95 VX rear defroster switch, with a connector/pig tail cut from a junk yard?
If possible, I'm hoping for the switch to be illuminated, but it's not a must.
Thanks!
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I doubt there were factory illuminated switches for cruise or defrost for the car you're looking at.
The best bet is to buy an illuminated momentary switch and wire it into a blank switch plate on your car.
I'll probably buy something like this when I figure out how to kill my engine.
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10-30-2014, 12:59 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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isn't this thread over 2 years old? lol
the last post by the user was December 2013
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