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Old 12-05-2014, 07:26 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I used distilled water and baking soda to increase the amount of hydrogen created and the electrodes got really caked over and didn't work anymore (after three full tanks) so I tried to make a new one for it but never got around to it cause the tranny got a huge leak and we haven't used it sense. I did find out that sulfuric acid is a pretty good electrolyzer and doesn't cause the caking issue. The thing was the worst one I made, but I haven't been able to build another one to put on a car lately.

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Old 12-05-2014, 08:43 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stovie View Post
I used distilled water and baking soda to increase the amount of hydrogen created and the electrodes got really caked over and didn't work anymore (after three full tanks) so I tried to make a new one for it but never got around to it cause the tranny got a huge leak and we haven't used it sense. I did find out that sulfuric acid is a pretty good electrolyzer and doesn't cause the caking issue. The thing was the worst one I made, but I haven't been able to build another one to put on a car lately.
Ok. time to admit it. I built a few HHO generators of my own. The reason you got all nasty in the tank is because the baking soda electrolyte stays in your canister for quite a while. I was able to go through easily 10 cycles without adding any more electrolyte ( before other catastrophic failures) then I burned a few vessels and gave up. if I remember correctly, the last good electrolyte I found was actually LYE.

The only thing I haven't reused yet from those sorry times is my last volt/amp Gauge ( minus the power switch - that runs a vacuum now )




I may have had a very inefficient design, but my "backyard engineered" HHO generators all worked. The hardest thing to make at home were the flashback arrestors, really. But as soon as they started bubbling you could hold a lighter to the hose and Pop pop pop pop pop

And I have no idea what harm it did to the motor. ... I'm sure it didn't make the motor happy.

You should post diagrams or something so we can build our own and try! Then, if not anything else, you might get more support over here.

Thanks,
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Old 12-05-2014, 10:59 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Why did you not make this threat on birk1's original post?

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Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
Yes, I've been reading this thread. (I've received a few PM's / reports.)

Stop the personal insults. There are already multiples here, including by the O.P.

(And THANKS to those of you who are still able to communicate without resorting to them.)

This topic is forum poison. It's been declared off-limits elsewhere (CMPG?), and from the perspective of a forum admin/benevolent dictator, that's understandable & appealing, regardless of whether there's any legitimacy to the concept.

EDIT/SUGGESTION: to those wanting to explore the topic and avoid "the usual outcome", adopt a different approach.
The "usual outcome" happened. You did nothing to quell the inevitable. The thread becomes useless.

The usual personalities dumped on his thread right from the start with the usual banal arguments and accusations above and beyond what birk1 even proposed. I don't expect you to be fair. The subject matter belongs in the Corral until proven otherwise. But it also deserves some room to breath.

Maybe you are right and that the subject is "poison" and should be banned. But it is also an admittance that this forums' denizens are not of a quality to conduct themselves.
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Old 12-05-2014, 11:09 PM   #44 (permalink)
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The basic design for the one I used on the gmc was just two 12 inch stainless steel rods I cut in half so there was four six inch rods and put them really close together in a square shape with the positive and negative rods across from each other. Then about two table spoons of baking soda
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Old 12-05-2014, 11:16 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Here is an example of an undermining post.

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Originally Posted by mcrews View Post
Stovie,
With a 25% increase I'd be selling kits and putting it on all my cars.
What happened?
It is humorous and totally harmless to some.

It interjects intentions and accuses Stovie of being one of the sales scammers when Stovie has done no more than politely offer up his experience.

I made the original post out of frustration to this forum. I made myself a lightning rod for your confrontational views. I can take anything you throw at me. New posters cannot for the most part. They deserve the same courtesy as anyone else.
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Old 12-05-2014, 11:26 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Thanks for your continued posts.

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Originally Posted by stovie View Post
The basic design for the one I used on the gmc was just two 12 inch stainless steel rods I cut in half so there was four six inch rods and put them really close together in a square shape with the positive and negative rods across from each other. Then about two table spoons of baking soda
It would be more beneficial to start a new thread that is build related as I started this thread in a bad frame of mind and with a confrontational attitude.

I like your use of stainless steel rods. Many people ask me what geometry is best for conductor shapes and I simply tell them "whatever fits". Hydrogen production directly follows your current. It is largely unaffected by conductor geometry just as long as your surface area is adequate.

Thanks again for posting up.
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Old 12-06-2014, 01:47 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stovie View Post
The basic design for the one I used on the gmc was just two 12 inch stainless steel rods I cut in half so there was four six inch rods and put them really close together in a square shape with the positive and negative rods across from each other. Then about two table spoons of baking soda


I used stainless rod and washers stacked with plastic in between for Maximum surface area. That went into a cylinder of stainless. This assembly also had plastic spacers so it couldn't ground itself to the central rod/washers.

This whole thing went into a 3" pvc pipe with a cap glued on the bottom and a female thread fitting on top. The "generator" was connected to the male thread cap, and my electrical connections and gas out came thru the cap. I used a pcv valve as a check valve on the gas out.
It held about 1.5 liters of electrolyte I didn't take pictures (pre smart phone). I did notice a small improvement, but I didn't have an mpguino back then either, so it could have been a placebo effect

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Victor
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Old 12-06-2014, 09:46 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Right now I'm working on a multiple plate reaction chamber. I bought a roll of 10 inch aluminum(50 feet long $29.95 at Home Depot) cut a bunch of 8x10's and am caulking them in series. From my experience with smaller reaction chambers the more plates in between the positive and negative terminals produced far more hydrogen and oxygen then the two plates alone with maybe a 50% increase in amps used because the power had to travel farther in the water.
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Old 12-06-2014, 11:23 AM   #49 (permalink)
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That's pretty cool, man! Where do you introduce the HHO gas into your motor? I always went in with a tee on the brake booster vacuum line.

How many Amps do you run and where do you Mount the generator? I kept mine ahead of the radiator but behind my grill to try and get a little "windage". That thing got damn hot running under the hood.

Your design sounds cool. Do you have an mpguino or something for your car?

Enough questions already

Thanks,
Victor
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Old 12-06-2014, 01:24 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I would choose different plate material.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stovie View Post
Right now I'm working on a multiple plate reaction chamber. I bought a roll of 10 inch aluminum(50 feet long $29.95 at Home Depot) cut a bunch of 8x10's and am caulking them in series. From my experience with smaller reaction chambers the more plates in between the positive and negative terminals produced far more hydrogen and oxygen then the two plates alone with maybe a 50% increase in amps used because the power had to travel farther in the water.
Aluminum reacts with most alkali or acidic electrolytes. Electrolysis occurs to a degree even without an external driving voltage. You will find your aluminum will become pitted and eroded in short order. When you are powering the cell, you will find a white bloom will form on one plate and pits will form on the other. The white bloom is aluminum oxide which will insulate against further current flow though it easily flakes off from the evolution of bubbles. An aluminum electrode is basically a consumable in this application. I had a neighbor in high school who used zinc plates in an early electrolysis cell. It worked great until the zinc was consumed.

I use 16 gauge 304 stainless in my cells only because I have a bunch of it left over in the shop. I like to go to the dollar store and look for stainless cookie sheets in the cooking isle. They are cheap material for experimenting.

Edit:

Now that I think of it. Maybe you should go through the build with the aluminum plates. Just let us know what goes on no matter the gains or losses. There are several patents on techniques to generate hydrogen gas from the reaction of aluminum and water. The reaction is thermodynamically favorable allowing for large amounts of hydrogen production for small energy inputs.


Last edited by RustyLugNut; 12-06-2014 at 01:29 PM.. Reason: Addition.
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