Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyDiesel
I've been turning the key off to EOC. It is annoying, especially since the Insight's engine takes several seconds to die and I can't turn the key back to ON right away. Gaining over 10 mpg in town is worth it.
I have your chip on my wish list actually  Money has been tight, hopefully I can place an order soon.
This is the clutch switch mod, correct? I've read about it numerous times on InsightCentral and is on the to-do list as well (I have a ton of things I want to do with my Insight lol). I'm definitely interested, so give me as much Insight into this mod as you can |
Yup, so two mods here.
Mod 1: Clutch Switch
These photos are from my old Silver G1, but my new Red G1 has the same electrical setup. Anyway, you can see on the left in an accessory slot I have a black button and a red LED. The clutch, if you follow the pedal up to where it's bolted into the firewall, up there you will see an electrical connector leading to it with two wires. When the clutch is depressed a button inside there is pressed which closes the circuit between the two wires. If you run two more wires to your own switch you can press your new switch to close the circuit and trick the car into thinking the clutch is depressed.
If the car thinks the clutch is depressed it will in most scenarios (99% of the time) not provide assist or regen. The way I wired it was I put a 68 ohm resistor and an LED in series with the black button so when the button is pressed in the LED lights up so that I know the switch is on. This is a SPST Maintaining button, you don't want a momentary button.
Mod 2: EFAS chip and a DPDT relay
This photo also from the Silver G1, but I did the same in my red Insight. This is a SPST Momentary pushbutton switch on my shifter. It goes to a relay I hid under the cupholders:
This photo is from the Red G1 but the board was exactly the same on the Silver G1. The black relay is a DPDT relay that gets activated when you press the button on the shifter. On the right side it switches the VSS signal being given to the ECM to be the fake one generated by the Arduino clone you see at the top of the board. On the left side the yellow wires lead to one of the wires from the clutch switch. When that relay gets activated it breaks the circuit of the clutch switch, turning it off, which makes the car think the clutch is not being pressed (unless you were also holding the actual clutch down).
So with this combination, once you got it setup, what you do is you disconnect the 12v battery for 10 seconds, and then hop in the car and turn it on and turn on the clutch switch. And leave it on. The car will drive like crap for the first 5-10 minutes, and attempt an IMA battery recalibration. But once it's done that it will drive normally and there won't be an IMA light.
Except it won't try to assist you or regen ever, so the car will never figure out that the IMA is deteriorated. Because it has no idea the IMA is bad, now you can use Auto-Stop either normally or with my button, and you also can get Lean Burn. Furthermore, using my button for Auto-Stop is superior to injector kill or key-off because the car will go back into Lean Burn faster (10 second delay with the other methods) and you never get the stupid dash lights and the EPS stays on the whole time.
I have a thread regarding the Auto-Stop button and how I developed it
here or you can post in my red car's build thread about it if you don't want me spamming up this one.
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914.7 miles on just over 10.7 gallons. I hate that I missed my kilotank! As I suspected, not having lean burn was a deciding factor, along with night driving, the Arkansas mountains and Lower Appalachian mountains in Georgia and so many hills elsewhere. 
