Chorizo repair thread (2000 black Honda Civic HX)

[Daox]

Does it matter? Your engine is within specifications per Honda. No, its not in perfect shape. Are you considering rebuilding it? What is the purpose of testing the compression?

I found out the compression was on the low side on my Metro after having it a few months. It didn't use oil, and I continued on to get 50 mpg lifetime over 2 years of ownership. Did I consider rebuilding it? Yep, but I never did, and I never had any issues either...

If you're not looking to rebuild the engine, just make sure to keep oil in it and you'll be fine IMO.

[Stubby79]

Listen to Daox.

Do you know if you're leaking oil or burning it?

[Xist]

Originally Posted by Daox

What is the purpose of testing the compression?

Cyberbullying

My engine has lost 36 - 50 PSI in sixteen years and seven months. On average, a couple of PSI a year. Ya gotta give it to me straight, Daox! How long do I have?!

Having lost 23% of my compression, what effect do you think that would have on fuel economy? I understand a $400 rebuild kit would have purchased a great deal of gas, but the HXes on Craigslist are all selling for about what I paid for Chorizo ($2,700), but the blue book is only $1,238!

I replaced the head gasket in a Subaru. I am pretty sure I can rebuild. (Insert 6 Million-Dollar Man) quote here. Meanwhile, I have the Accord.

Should I check that car's compression for reference?

Also, hundreds of dollars and endless hours would be worthwhile for this conversation:

Sister: "When are you going to stop driving that Civic?! I bet your engine will give out any day now!"
Xist: "I just rebuilt it."
Sister: "You did what?! Now the transmission will wear out!"
Xist: "I rebuilt that, too."
/static

Plus, I read they put a gold star sticker on your man card.

No, really, it is win-win. If I keep myself busy with that I would not have time to harass you guys!

I do not remember in what thread Balto talked about his compression and strangely, searching for "Balto compression" gave me one page, nothing relevant.

Please remind me what happened to your Metro. Thanks!

Stubby, there is not a single drop of oil in my parking spot, although I have not noticed smoke.

[Gasoline Fumes]

Cranking with throttle open? Gauge accurate?

[California98Civic]

Sure, you could do a leakdown too. I have never done that test. But assuming you did the test properly and your gauge is working properly, you have revealed significant wear that is not outside acceptable ranges yet. It ain't good, but it ain't broke yet, either.

[Xist]

You want me to calibrate the gauge? Mechanics have said each gauge reads differently, but what is important is how close the cylinders are, although I am pretty sure being at or below minimum specifications is important. From what I can tell, I can find a place that will calibrate your gauge or hook it up to a compressor and compare gauges. I would need a compressor for a leakdown test.

With the above said, you squirt the tablespoon of oil (SAE 30W is fine) into a cylinder that is reading low. Crank the engine two revolutions or so to spread the oil then retest the cylinder. If the compression comes up markedly, 40 PSI or more, the trouble is poor ring to bore sealing. If compression doesn't increase much, about 5 PSI, then the problem is probably with the valves. It could also be pulled head studs or a warped cylinder head.

Technical Articles at Greg's Engine & Machine

Reading results
No engine will have perfect sealing with 0 percent loss. Five to 10 percent loss indicates an engine in great to good running order. An engine between 10 and 20 percent can still run OK, but it’ll be time to keep an eye (or ear) on things. Above 20 percent loss and it may be time for a teardown and rebuild. Thirty percent? Major problems. The percent of leakage should also be consistent across the cylinders. Any great differences indicate a problem in that cylinder.

Hearing problems
Beyond getting an overall picture of engine condition, the engine leakdown test is an excellent way to pinpoint where problems are before tearing down the engine. Listening for where the air is escaping by ear can isolate the problem.

Intake valve : Air whistling out of the intake, carburetor or throttle body indicates a leak at the intake valve.
Exhaust valve : Air heard hissing out of the tailpipe, turbocharger or exhaust manifold means an exhaust valve leak.
Piston rings : Whistling or hissing out of the PCV valve, oil filler cap hole or dipstick tube means the air is pushing past the rings. Suspect ring or cylinder wall wear.
Head gasket : Air bubbles in engine coolant seen at the radiator filler cap could mean air escaping into the coolant past the head gasket.
Cracked cylinder head : Bubbles in coolant or coolant being pushed up out of the radiator neck can also indicate cracks in the cylinder head or cylinder walls.

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-...-leakdown-test

Now I want to see if Mobil has a compression test page, but it is kind of irrelevant!

Compression increased 12 - 18 PSI from wet to dry--"If compression doesn't increase much, about 5 PSI, then the problem is probably with the valves. It could also be pulled head studs or a warped cylinder head." My car has lost 19.5 - 27% per cylinder. "it may be time for a teardown and rebuild."

Does it actually benefit me to know what the specific problem is? I love data, but I am not sure this is worth the time, energy, and money. Meanwhile, if I rebuild the engine, I will replace all of the seals and inspect the metal components.

Warped head--on my car? Wouldn't I have that machined like for the Subaru head gasket? Pulled head studs?

Weird. Most people obsessed over replacing the head studs when I replaced the head gasket, but RockAuto's kit does not include it: RockAuto offers a DNJ ENGINE COMPONENTS EK297M Master Kit; Includes Oil Pump & Timing Belt or Timing Kit for $369.99. Perhaps looking for another car would make more sense, but I probably would not be able to get another HX.

Rebuilding the engine would save me money eventually over driving the Accord daily. It is an automatic!

[ME_Andy]

Fun thread, Xist. Lemme just point out, you're spending ~$50/month in repairs. Throw in gas money and it would almost be worth buying a used Volt.

[California98Civic]

Originally Posted by ME_Andy

Fun thread, Xist. Lemme just point out, you're spending ~$50/month in repairs. Throw in gas money and it would almost be worth buying a used Volt.

I actually think that's not the case because a used volt cheap enough to run cheaper than an old civic will possibly be a vehicle close to needing some prsistent and hard to locate repairs. That Volt is a much more complex machine. I also would counsel maybe rebuilding for $400 is possibly far better than another ancient Civic for $2000 but with mystery problems. But that's me... I still drive the 1998 Civic I bought in early 2001 from a dealer. My wife has her car, but this is the only car I have owned these last 16 years.

EDIT: I mean, I know everything wrong/right with this car. Another one would have surprises. And I love the Volt!

[Xist]

My grill block and air dam is 13" tall. I cut off the remaining 11" and used ABS paste to attach it to the back of the original piece and then screwed it back onto my bumper. I had poured acetone on the two pieces, but it dried without doing anything. I had read people just dissolved ABS pieces in acetone to make their own paste and that definitely seems like what I bought, $4 for four ounces, and only covered about two square feet, but it is holding. Hopefully closing off the opening in the winter and making it more rigid will help measurably. When it gets warmer I need to cut a new opening, supposedly in front of the radiator, but when I use AC I am pretty sure that needs ventilation, too. I am going to try it with bell-mouthing this time and really need to get around to ducting.

[California98Civic]

Looks formidable!