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Old 07-28-2008, 01:56 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Hi guys

Thanks for all this , most useful and nice to get things rights first time !

Azlar wow your 246 don't half have some gauges , I only have the main panel shown on the left in your picture and the clock !
regards Paul

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Old 07-28-2008, 06:14 AM   #22 (permalink)
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You should see my VW Vanagon. There's 3 gauges for just for temp (water/oil/cylinder head)!
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Old 08-02-2008, 09:18 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azlar View Post
As long as your connections are tight, sensors should be okay. Mine has a t-fitting spliced into the line feeding the ECU. Was easy to run it back into the cabin without too many twists and turns. Doesn't seem to affect the computer.

Another good spot would be straight off the intake manifold. The port on the left is for the powerbrakes, the one on the right has a reduced diameter. Might be okay, but the middle is a full size connection. Just put a T in there and run with it.

The mounting was in an unused spot in the console. Bezel broke the other day, so need to find a new one.. This gauge doesn't have numbers, but if you drive it for awhile it will still give you good driving knowledge. I should probably calibrate it one of these days using my tune-up vacuum gauge, but this works fine.
Azlar

Well I have spliced my gauge in where you suggested and it does not work properly only reading 3 or 4 at the most.

This is the gauge :-

52mm Auto Smoke Vacuum Pressure Dial Gauge Meter Silver on eBay, also Dial, Dash Switch Custom'n, Interior Styling, Car Tuning Styling, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 28-Jul-08 14:00:54 BST)

Before I got around to fitting the gauge this happened.

My wife used the car yesterday and it did not run after starting , being doing that a bit of late , so she hit the throttle to try and catch it and I heard a bang under the bonnet but the car ran so I let her go out in it.
When this happened last time it blew the big rubber donut off that is between the manifold and the air-fuel control unit and it refused to start till I reconnected it.

When coming to splice the vacuum line into the middle pipe connector in your photo I found that the other end under the manifold was not in it's housing ? [ caused by yesterdays bang ? ] the flame trap for the PCV and yet the car could start and run ? strange ?

It took me ages to get that back in but finally did it and spliced in the t piece.

When the gauge did not work I though the pipe was blocked down to the flame trap but it is clear , if I unscrew the middle pipe connector in your photo the car will not start and yet it could with the other end of the pipe hanging in the air ? the only difference being the screw in part has a restrictor at the manifold end ? lot smaller than the pipe diameter.

I do not have the third pipe in your picture on the right I have what looks like a bolt in there so I am going to see if it is tapped all the way through and I can get a pipe adapter to screw into it.

regards Paul
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Old 08-04-2008, 08:15 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormbird View Post
Azlar
....

I do not have the third pipe in your picture on the right I have what looks like a bolt in there so I am going to see if it is tapped all the way through and I can get a pipe adapter to screw into it.

regards Paul
Check for any leaks first. The hose and t-fitting size have to match, otherwise outside air is getting in.

If the third pipe is tapped through into the manifold, you're golden. It'll be straight vacuum. Check the threads and find a fitting that matches.

You might want to take your gauge into the engine bay and quickly unplug various hoses and plug them into the gauge and see what it reads. Pick the best source and put a T in it. But I think that third pipe will be your best bet.
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:36 PM   #25 (permalink)
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My Stewart-Warner Vacuum Gauge

I just wanted to show off my latest addition to the quest for mpg...

This gauge was donated by my dad, who has had this gauge in many cars, trucks, & motorhomes spanning 35+ years. This is what you would call a quality gauge. I made a cover out of a black cap off an aerosol can and used a strip of velcro to secure it to the dash cover. The vacuum hose is actually routed under the dash pad, not on top of it like the picture shows. I ran the hose down the side and under the dash to the passenger's side, exiting out an existing plastic grommet in the fire wall. I did tap into the brake booster hose, but did so in the location directly off the intake manifold.

Here's a couple pics:
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:47 PM   #26 (permalink)
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That's a classic! Very "retro" and it even has more chrome on it than your entire car!
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Old 08-08-2008, 02:41 AM   #27 (permalink)
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More chrome than any three Metros!

Seriously, I think I am adding this to the project list.

1. Set my timing right
2. New radiator
3. New fuel filter
4. THIS

Boy, I have some work ahead of me!
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Old 08-08-2008, 03:34 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Hacksaw -

Great Gauge! You made me Google Stewart Warner :

Street Rod Gauges, Stewart Warner

Here's a reference to the Motor Minder (maybe it's still in production!) :

Vacuum Gauges - Stewart Warner

CarloSW2
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Old 08-08-2008, 10:37 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Hi there

Found parts to move pipe to spare connector on manifold this has had a small effect.

Now the gauge buzz's like mad between 6 and 8 when idling , hits about 10 when coasting and 0 when accelerating.

Now I suspect I have a good feed and actually have problems with the car and not the vacuum feed , of course it may still be the gauge and I have no other one to try.

How do you test/look for a vacuum leak ? how can something that is not there leak ?

Puzzled ????

regards Paul
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Old 08-08-2008, 11:53 AM   #30 (permalink)
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First, I'd check the gauge on another car or put another gauge on yours. That will rule out a bum unit.

Finding a vacuum leak is a real bear of a project. Simple way to start is get a can of Carb Cleaner and squirt it at anyplace that air might want to get into the engine. Hoses, intake manifold gasket, brake booster, etc. If there's a leak, the RPM's will increase a bit.

If the reading is low, you can live with it. Maybe just how it's connected or a quirky gauge. The buzzing isn't too good, might want to check your valves. If one doesn't close properly you'll get a backflash from the cylinder that will disturb the incoming air.

Check out RWD - The Volvo Owner's Resource
Lots of help for your car.

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