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Old 03-24-2010, 06:55 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I made my own thread
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post167508

Found this 10 minutes later...maybe moderator can merge my thread here?
This thread should be sticky.


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Old 03-30-2010, 12:17 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Nice yetimus
I agree dcb. Yetimus, you are inspiring me to do something similar for my wife's Avenger. I hope the display is a little bigger though!
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Old 03-30-2010, 07:22 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Very nice. What case is that?

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Old 04-19-2010, 11:36 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Hi all, I am looking for enclosures, where can I find them online, specifically for mpguino?
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Old 04-24-2010, 12:18 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Hey, how did that work out?
I set the display into front panel of Radio Shack case first, a lot like what you showed - then I had problems.

My carpool buddy who knows way more elect. than I do said to set it into the main part first using small tube type standoffs + screws, then set on the faceplate. I'm doing a rebuild soon but not sure which way I'll go.

Hmmm - I just saw rmccomiskie's pics here, that looks like a good way too.
see link

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Just temp to see how it works...
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:55 PM   #36 (permalink)
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My new case:
47.96 mpg on the 57.67 mi. trip to work this morning.


Previous cardboard case worked great and was compact but not pretty.


New case has rear ventilation slots.
(Later I had to make these MUCH larger, unit would overheat and cut out occasionally. Slots now = approx half the back's surface area.)


New case was made from a much larger case. From an electronic supply place.
Source case had the correct dimension across, about 1/2" bigger than the 4x2x1" Radio Shack case I'd tried earlier (too cramped for this version Guino, imho). I cut down both the height and the depth later.
+


A car pool buddy with more electrical knowledge and experience than I advised me - after my first plastic case um, failed miserably. Advice: There should be no stress on any circuit board. Mount with screws and non-threaded standoffs (bushings) as spacers. Use non conductive materials wherever possible.

I used #3 screws; they fit the holes nicely. #4 is too big. #2 works but they are kinda loose. My screws and nuts are stainless; the washers are #4 nylon.

At the bottom you see 2 screws, each with 2 washers. They anchor the board to the case.


Detail of one of the 2 upper screws. These are spacers that brace (gently) against the back side of the case front panel. You'll need to CAREFULLY trim away some of the sheet plastic that's between the two circuit boards at the corners. Swiss Army knife scissors did it for me. One nylon plus one thin stainless washer built up the right thickness. Note the nylon is against the board, not conductive.


I basically sliced off the entire lower part of the original full case to the short height I wanted. Then it needed a new bottom. Bottom has velcro to stick to dash so I wanted to have a bottom there. Bottom made from the left over front panel that I trimmed off. Note the cuts to mate with the back of case. That's a fiber reinforced cutoff wheel on the "Dremel", which is actually a Black and Decker. It did almost all the cutting I needed for the project.


Here's a shot showing the cut to reduce the depth. I made a new back from more of the front panel trim-off material. JB Quick "weld" epoxy glued on the new bottom and back. Hot glue might melt in summer heat, and regular epoxy is rated only to 200F (from the package info). JB Quick is rated to 300F so I feel pretty confident in that.


Can't resist showing the trip home from work today.
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Old 05-22-2010, 05:04 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucepick View Post
Hey, how did that work out?
I set the display into front panel of Radio Shack case first, a lot like what you showed - then I had problems.

My carpool buddy who knows way more elect. than I do said to set it into the main part first using small tube type standoffs + screws, then set on the faceplate. I'm doing a rebuild soon but not sure which way I'll go.

Hmmm - I just saw rmccomiskie's pics here, that looks like a good way too.
see link
It was a tight fit into that box, trimmed some off the boards and some from inside the box. Plans were to mount it perm. some where in the car but have been having too much fun EOC'ing! It does work good in there but I should put some ventilation in it like you have done, we got to 100 deg yesterday!

What problems did you have?
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:22 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
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...What problems did you have?
The problems were with my 1st attempt, in the Radio Shack 4x2x1" box. Carpool buddy thinks I damaged the board by using the friction + pressure fit method. Anyway one day I got into the car and first thing I did was to reach for the center illum. brightness button - and the display fried. I think a static charge hit it from my fingertip. So I had to get the display board replaced.

After what my buddy told me about not stressing any of the boards I decided to do a complete new case. I figure maybe it only fried because somehow I compromised a board. As you see instead of mounting it to the case like he said, I mounted it to the panel; otherwise I took his advice. I think it's good; time will tell.
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Old 07-10-2010, 03:04 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Not so much a enclosure, but more permanent installation.


Took the middle air vent out of a donor car i have. Made a metal plate to mount the mpguino onto. hacked out buttons from a dead dvd recorder(sawing both pcb and front display part). then some 3m carbon vinyl to hold the metal plate to the vent.

(i pics it is attached with hotglue, but it fell off due to heat. So i instead used the stuff body panels are sealed with, and super glue.)
and ofcourse blocked the air to the side it is mounted.




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Old 07-16-2010, 09:52 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Slick. I'd say, unblock the air to that side. Cut some slots or such in the metal plate and it will help keep the Guino cool. They build up some heat especially if they get a straight shot of 12-14V.

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