Full boat tail on a Matrix

[MetroMPG]

Originally Posted by roadwarrior_xrs

I found this link recently about coasting in neutral:
popularmechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/news/coasting-in-neutral-fuel-economy
It basically says that the engine doesn't use ANY fuel while coasting, confirmed with measurements of the fuel injectors. This seems to contradict a lot of what I read on this site regarding EOC. Thoughts?

There is no cut and dry answer for when to coast in N vs. in gear. Sometimes it's better in N, other times it's not. The PM article does a disservice by suggesting that there is one right answer; the 3 pages of comments below the article successfully challenge it.

Some variables to consider: are you trying to slow down (or maintain speed in a descent), or are you trying to coast as far as possible (or even accelerate, if descending)? At what engine speed does your particular vehicle enter & exit fuel cut? If your car is automatic, does it even fuel cut at all when the torque converter is NOT locked (and do you know when it is locked)?

(Also, there are a few threads about this already - try the search tool).

[Weather Spotter]

For me and my car (manual), I coast (in neutral and engine off) when ever I need to slow down, want to use a hill to my advantage, am approaching a stop sign, etc.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by Weather Spotter

For me and my car (manual), I coast (in neutral and engine off) when ever I need to slow down, want to use a hill to my advantage, am approaching a stop sign, etc.

Weather,did you defeat the steering lock for when the ignition switch is turned off? A turn of the steering wheel could spell disaster!

[Weather Spotter]

By using a kill switch I do not touch my key to kill or restart my engine. It kills the fuel injectors so the engine stalls, then I bump start with the clutch to restart the engine.

This keeps the steering operable, power steering is lost within 2 sec but I can steer it without assist.

[Weather Spotter]

Well I got a coat of paint on the tail today!
before


After

[Weather Spotter]

Well I got the stickers on today!

[ECONORAM]

Originally Posted by Weather Spotter

Day 6

I did take a look and where the car and tail meet there is some gaps. I need some ideas on how to fill them in. I want a water tight seal but I still want it removable from the car. Ideas?







Top:


From the inside looking out:







I have a few ideas some are bad others are weird so help me come up with a solution.
1. caulk the daylights out of it each time I take it on and off (and pray it releases off the car)
2. add weather stripping and hope for the best (do they make it 1" think?)
3. take off tail (want to avoid but will if needed), cover the car in plastic, reattach the tail, and bondo the holes shut.
4. let it leak
5 let it leak but make a barrier inside and direct water out a hole in the bottom. How?

6 your idea here_______________________

Sorry I didn't find this thread sooner. What we did when I worked as an A&P could work for you.
We had to remove and reinstall fuel panels on integrated wing tanks. We'd remove the panels, scrape the sealer off the wing and panel, and when ready to reinstall...we'd wax the mating surface on the wing, leaving the wax as applied--dried to a haze (do not buff and remove), then apply a coat of sealer (1422B1/2 typically) to the panel and run the screws in. Once the sealer dried, it served as a custom fit gasket/seal. The wax acts as a release agent.
You will have to apply some force in order to remove the part, as it does stick pretty good still. I did this before on a set of spark plug wires, where one was arching to the head. Waxed the plugs, spread some RTV on the sides of the spark plug boots, and shoved them on. Presto, custom fit seals.
You could use RTV, maybe spray foam or something else once you have waxed the surfaces on the car.

[Weather Spotter]

thanks, what I have now, works and does not leak I will keep it in mind for the next time I take the tail off.

[aerohead]

Weather,another quick and dirty trick for a release is to apply petroleum jelly to the integration area of the cars body,then 'adhere' aluminum foil to the jellied area using a firm bristle paint brush.Over the foil you can do a direct wet layup right onto your existing mods with no fear of any resin getting on the Vibe itself or sticking.
A plastic spreader can be used to part the mods from jellied area and after the jelly is removed you have a gap-free glove-fit part.
Some felt is nice to use in between when installing and if there is any vibration at the joint it will prevent chafing of the finish.

[3-Wheeler]

Or yet another option is duct tape and axle grease.

1) I clean the painted surface on the car first
2) Place the duct tape on the car and overlap in the area of interest
3) Rub on a thin coat of axle grease over the gray surface of the duct tape.

The duct tape is thick enough to give me a little "air-gap-cushion" to ensure that the tail does not hit the paint on the car.

I'm going to tighten up the gap on my tail using this same approach later this summer.

We'll see if the thickness of the duct tape is enough for this to work.

Jim.