Getting frustrated by lack of prior Aero modded Camry's - Page 6 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

battlewagon · 08-17-2010, 02:58 AM

Awesome

pgmomni · 08-22-2010, 10:41 PM

Sooo close.

2 weeks ago on my 650 mile round trip for work,
on the way down, 03911 to New Rochelle, NY for work on Tuesday. New Rochelle to River Edge NJ after work. River Edge to lower Manhattan, NYC on Weds AM for work.
I had a record 39.3 MPG tank going with a avg speed of 65 mph.

All I needed was a good ride home from NYC to 03911(York, Maine) to make a new record.
TRAFFIC, head winds, MORE TRAFFIC. Ended up with 36.5 for the tank on 648 miles.

3 things to note.
1. fresh oil change 5/30w, 3 qts Castrol High Mileage and 1 Qts Valvoline SynBlend.
2. switched from Shell or BJ's to Citgo gas the last 2 runs.
3. Installed the passive aluminum oil cooler I had on my old '97 Camry.
Basically its a finned cover that goes over oil filter to better dissipate heat from oil filter. Years ago on Toyota Nation one of the engineering members laughed at me/it. Said it was like using a water pistol on a forest fire. It gets too hot to touch. Cooling the engine oil down slightly is counter productive to thermal efficiency. Could its close proximity to the exhaust manifold and the front Cat actually be causing it to heat up the oil!? My '97 Camry ran hotter then hell. If it started raining after I had been driving awhile steam would come off of the hood. This "oil cooler" was always on the Camry.

Car seems to like the Citgo gas?

Tomorrow I gotta post pics of new spoiler, I did the ends a bit better this time.

I want to put the upper grille block back on too. Its just that idling when stuck in traffic temp goes up to 210 which causes both radiator fans to come on high until temp drops back down to 195. This cycle repeats until traffic gets back over like 10 mph. Not too hot but repeated trips to 210 can't be good for the oil?

It appears the upper grille and lower grille create airflow when car is stationary. Heat pours out upper grille and in effect pulls ambient temp air in lower grille.

With the upper grille blocked the cycle I noted above very noticeably happens more frequently.

New spoiler pics tomorrow.

Pete

Weather Spotter · 08-22-2010, 10:54 PM

A few trips to 210+ might not be bad for the oil, it will cook off the water which is a very good thing!

pgmomni · 08-22-2010, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weather Spotter

A few trips to 210+ might not be bad for the oil, it will cook off the water which is a very good thing!

Hi,
water condensation in my oil has never been a prob for me as I do soooo much long range hwy driving. Very little stop and go except when I get stuck either on I95 in CT or on the West Side Hwy in Manhattan.

I think the last time I saw that yellowish brown glop under my oil cap was in HS back in 1979!

What has me wondering is could I actually be heating my oil with this "oil cooler" oil filter cover?
Need to test this. I did IAT sensor relocating mod to see if I could fool ECU to lean out A/F ratio. Basically made a connector and wire harness and relocated the IAT sensor to under the dash by the heat/cool duct. Tested running with heat on high, IAT at like 200! and IAT at like 60 from blowing AC right on it, IAT disconnected, temp shows negative, IAT jumper-ed, temp shows like 240. None of that seem to have any effect on A/F ratio, some effect on ignition timing retard/advance.

But, I could relocated to right on oil filter, tape it to side of it without oil cooling cover and with oil cooling cover and see if it makes any difference either way. Not a very good test, measuring oil temp would be better.
I have to see If I can tap a hole somewhere to add a oil temp sensor.

The thing is, my previous Camry always got 35-36+ mpg and it always had the oil cooler on it. No aero mods, same cheap after market air intake.
This Camry which I have had since Dec 09, I have had to struggle to get it to get to the point where its gets 35-36 consistently.
I think it had a "cold" driving experience in the past and has/had a fair amount of carbon buildup in the cylinders as seen thru the spark plug holes. Better after the water induction IV I did one trip. Noticeably less carbon on piston viewed thru spark plug hole.

Maybe I just need to blow out some more carbon to get this engine back to peak power/efficiency?

Ahhh, i think its time for another Beck's while I ponder these questions!

Pete

mcrews · 08-23-2010, 01:26 AM

Pete,
Read my last post on "scangauge & Temp" thread.

THe q45 4.5L v8 has a 180 therm but then a 'water valve" that doesnt open until 202-206. By design.

I actually think your ok.

also, I posted 'oil analysis". the company can test if the properties are burned out of the oil due to high temp.
I hit 240 in Texas for about 2 minutes (stop and go at 2 mph). I sent that oil in and they said it was still good.

comptiger5000 · 08-23-2010, 08:42 AM

Running at 210* won't hurt any modern engine. Use a good oil (figuring oil runs 10 - 20* hotter than coolant temp), and you'll be fine. Most good quality oils are fine up to 240 - 250* oil temp, and many good synthetics are fine at 280+.

mikeross · 08-27-2010, 04:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pgmomni

A couple of other members concur and today I may get around to tweaking.

Was thinking of making some side skirts too as I have more vinyl siding anyway.

I need to work on changing over to water injection as opposed to water induction. Induction method draws more water on high vacuum, less on low vacuum (high load, throttle opened wide) when the exact opposite is what is desired. Need to use washer fluid pump and a misting nozzle in the throttle body along with a vacuum switching valve the shuts it off under high vacuum.
A couple of times when idling in traffic it "sucked" down 8-10 oz of water dam quick when map was in low 4's. Good way to blow a head gasket or bend a piston rod or valve.

Pete

You're right at that Pete. That's what I hate about heavy traffic. I need to have enough water to make sure that it won't blow the gasket.

pgmomni · 09-19-2010, 11:35 PM

Lost another Full moon, so I was down to the 2 Fronts and now another one has gone MIA. !@#$!

But today I did a new upper grille block.

At Walmart getting "book covers" for kids text books.
They sell these stretchy fabric covers now days.
Well I got a black one and tried it over my upper grille.

It was a real stretch getting it to fit as grill is too wide for it
But I did get it on.

These pics also show the 2nd version of the front air dam.

Pete

Weather Spotter · 09-19-2010, 11:46 PM

I would pop off the Toyota emblem, looks cleaner that way.

I love the air dam, looks very OEM!

How are your moon disks attached? I taped and threaded my steely rims and put 3 bolts on each wheel:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...aps-14295.html

They have stayed on for 1200+ miles. I have run them over lots of bumpy roads (some dirt wash boards at 55MPH that shook me like a marble in a paint can) and they are not even loose

pgmomni · 09-20-2010, 12:07 AM

Hey,
The camera flash made the Toyota emblem show thru. In plain sight you barely see it. I think if I remove the emblem there will be a good size "hole" there.

Book cover cost $2.

My racing hubcaps had the traditional tines all around the inside of the rim. Noisy as all hell. Problem was the times were not firmly attached to the outer lip. They had lateral play and hence work themselves loose and are noisy. Sorry I ever bought them ($90), though I really liked the look of them. Gave the car that retro "Space Family Robinson" look.

I am currently looking for cheap used hubcaps.
Will mod them to make them smooth.

Too busy now to do much of anything.
Pete