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Old 06-01-2011, 01:36 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I want to do the kill switch tonight. Is this the best way to do it?

--Easiest for you is an injector kill. There is a single power wire that feeds a resistor box, it's the only wire on the box that is a different color. The box is a finned aluminum case mounted on the drivers strut tower.

Switch inline with the different colored wire will kill power to all four injectors. This assumes you mean the CRX.--

Thanks for the help..

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Old 06-01-2011, 02:20 PM   #32 (permalink)
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And what gauge of wire would I need for the Kill switch Christ suggested? 14 Gauge still?
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:15 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyatta4 View Post
And what gauge of wire would I need for the Kill switch Christ suggested? 14 Gauge still?
For 15 amp fuse you can use 18 guage, for a 20 amp you need 16, for a 25 and 30 you need 14 gauge wiring.
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Old 06-26-2011, 08:36 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Why can't you just kill the engine with the key and then turn it back to the on position, while in neutral, to power the odometer?
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Old 06-27-2011, 01:23 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honduh View Post
Why can't you just kill the engine with the key and then turn it back to the on position, while in neutral, to power the odometer?
Two reasons:

1. I don't feel comfortable power-cycling the ECU that often.

2. I have a few long hills that require engine braking, but I don't think my engine is new enough to have DFCO, so I'm always burning a little fuel, even downhill with the throttle closed.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:39 AM   #36 (permalink)
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You can simply turn the key off and then back on and it will restore power to the speedometer and odometer. That method absolutely works.

You'd need to be very careful to not lock the steering column on most cars. Additionally, besides the stress on the electronics that could shorten their life, you will wear out the ignition switch sooner.

You may have heard the saying, "You pays your money and you takes your chances." It applies here as well.
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Old 06-27-2011, 04:24 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clev View Post
... I don't think my engine is new enough to have DFCO, so I'm always burning a little fuel, even downhill with the throttle closed.
My 1990 CRX does have DFCO, according to the owner's manual. Sadly, it ceases cut-off when the revs drop below about 2500 RPM, I think the number was. An RPM which my engine rarely goes above in any circumstances.

Your Accord may be similar; it may have DFCO which isn't useful the way that we tend to drive.

-soD
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:42 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I just did the fuel injector cutoff on my 1995 civic vx. way easier than I would have even thought. I used the extra accessory spot next to the rear defroster as that is closest to what I am used to using when I was just doing the key turn off method of E.O.C. . The ability to use the right hand which is already in the process of shifting into neutral as opposed to having the switch control of the steering wheel seemed more safe and accessible to me. the only problem I have had was once when I didnt switch the switch all the way back, I was on the freeway and was a bit worried, had to get to the side and stop to figure it out. stopped using it for a while then used it again in my normal safer conditions and found out the problem! Thanks Andrew fro the write up, I know you prob dont check this any more as you sold the rig a while back but thanks anyway!
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Old 03-29-2012, 04:53 PM   #39 (permalink)
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i have 1988 civic and all i do is turn the key back one click, engine turns off, steering wheel stays unlocked, head lights work but blinkers dont, i have installed a engine start switch. key must be turn forword to the run, the key will not start the car anymore. i've been doing this for two years now with no problems so fare and brakeing with out power not that hard its like the none power brake systems of the old days just press harder, if you are to week just turn the key for the power.
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:06 PM   #40 (permalink)
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OK I am doing the engine kill switch, I don't think I will use the clutch pedal to kill the engine as sometimes when I come to a stop I need the clutch pedal...


So i've decided to mount a switch on my shifter knob.

Now, for killing the engine, I was going to use the injection system, but since I have a fuel vaporizer system on my PCV system, the engine will still be getting a fuel source and possibly running. So, I would like to use the camshaft position sensor. The Fuel pump sounds like it might give a delay to my kill / restarting operation.


my Car is 1993 Honda Civic Si, and I've only found a Crank position sensor which is inside of the distributor, according to autozone, and the USDM.


I am not sure if this would do the same thing,. I don't want to damage the engine. Is it ok to open this circuit ?? And, should I Momentarily open this circuit using a Momentary switch (and a relay), or do I need to keep it open using a non-momentary switch ?


Thanks I will be waiting for some answers.

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