Moving my dad's shed. (Advice? Roll on pipes? Furniture dollies?)

[Xist]

On Monday I made breakfast for everyone, trimmed our tree, sprayed some wasps, washed up, watered the lawn, continued trying to remove the residue from my Accord, washed dishes, and then started working on the shed.

Yesterday I tossed and turned all morning and didn't get out until after my 2 teleclients. My brother was supervising, so I had him help me move the second sheet into position and then hold it while I started attaching it to the wall.

Then the dimpler broke!

Harbor Freight sells them 2 for $1, but a name-brand one failed.

Did I want to waste time and money with Harbor Freight?

Well, they were already closed, and Home Depot sold 4 for $5.37.

Except I couldn't find them.

An employee asked if he could help and I told him that the site showed dimplers right in that section.

"Did you look on our site?"

No, you macaroon, I called your BBS!

I had started looking in the next section to see if the other brand had it. It took me far too long to pull up on my phone, but then I looked up and found the other brand's dimplers, 4 for $4.97.

He only slowed me down!

Then my brother had me buy an illuminated Exit sign, which apparently he wants me to put over our front door.

It's not battery-powered, is it?

I finished installing screws and looked at the last section. The stud is going the right way, except it is against the front, which I haven't insulated yet, because I want to put in a real door, and I haven't figured out how to do that yet.

I bought a doorknob and installation kit for the greenhouse, but I need to redo the door so that it is straight.

I could put a door knob into the shed doors. One side latches into the door frame.

There is a lip on the left side so, since I haven't fixed the latch yet, I prop a 2x4 against that side.

I wonder if that side has the slide bolts. If so then I can close it from the inside, just not as easily as I would like.

Anyway, in order to put in the third sheet of drywall I am going to screw in a 1x2 to the stud, clip the drywall clips to another 1x2, temporarily screw that to the first 1x2, and then screw in another 2x4 perpendicular to the first one.

This way the prongs are on the back and it is easier to spackle over them.

Then I finally do the ceiling, which is where you are supposed to start, but not only are the studs 24" on-center, but they only put in every other rafter!

I am going to screw 2x4s 16" OC to another 2x4, screw the 2x4 to the back wall, and then screw through the last rafter to the new boards.

Then stagger 16" OC rafters through the middle 2 sections before screwing them to another board, and screwing that to the front.

The ceiling has 3 angled sections, so that is unnecessarily complicated, and there is a gap between the boards I am putting in now and the ceiling, so I need to add a strip there.

Fun!

[Xist]

Everything seemed fine until I decided to make a packet of ramen because we had leftover pasta, but not a significant amount of sauce, but after I threw that on the stove I remembered the remaining half of the Subway Mom bought me days ago.

I thought that it would be nice to dip the sandwich in the spicy cheese liquid, but I knew it was too much food.

I enjoyed it, but then felt sleepy.

Of course I couldn't nap. I tried!

So, I wandered around for a while, but unable to find any brains, I used power tools!

Installing a 1x2 wouldn't work. Maybe a 1x4.

No, a 2x4. Pre-drill the clips, screw them into the back of the 2x4, and screw that perpendicularly into the existing 2x4.

The one thing is that the clip would have stuck out more.

I didn't think of any of that. Cutting out 1.5" of fiberglass insulation would have been vastly easier than chiseling out foam board, but I didn't want to go that route.

I screwed in the 2x4 and, since the clips would back up to fiberglass, I bought, trimmed, pre-drilled, and screwed another piece of roof trim to the stud. Then I pre-drilled the drywall and the roof trim and put in drywall screws.

The cordless screwdriver died. When I came back my headlamp died.

I finished about 2100.

I had 6 screws left. Walmart sells them, but run to the store, flip 7 sheets of drywall down and up against the other wall, clean any mold, stretch the kraft paper and staple in 10 more stir sticks, measure, trim, and install 37(?) screws.

That is too much for one night, right?

[Xist]

I totally have time to install another board today, right?

Right?!

The thing is, that will be the last board on the bottom, except for whatever I do with the front wall, but there is only about a foot on each side of the door.

You are supposed to start with the ceiling, but I knew the bottom would be a pain.

You are supposed to use a drywall lift for the ceiling, but I have installed 4 boards in 4 days. With the 3 angles in the ceiling, I need to install 6 boards, and it will be even more difficult, so would one week ($188) be adequate?

Harbor Freight sells one for $260.

I cannot find any coupons.

[Xist]

I also made whatever this is:

Well, it's wrong. Oh well.

Unless I want to buy brackets I needed to shift two of those over so I can install the next set, so I need to shift all three, but I got it done.

[freebeard]

And I thought a picture might help.

[Xist]

Either I offset all 3 boards for the next section or I buy braces:

[Xist]

My Tuesday afternoon clients moved to Thursday and then Friday at 09, although I only saw one this week, and they canceled for the next week.

I stopped at Crazy J's and he said that he reverse-flushed the 2002 Civic, so I asked what I owed him, and ran home to get the money.

Unfortunately, I hid it too well.

I have looked through both 2-drawer filing cabinets, under my bed, on the loft, and in my closet, but none of those were great hiding places.

I am pretty sure that wherever I put it you wouldn't recognize it.

I saw two clients yesterday and spent the rest of the day going through my room. I got rid of a bunch of garbage, recycling, and set aside a ton more stuff to take to UPS to have them shred.

Most of that was Dad's.

[Xist]

I spent a long time trying to figure out how to put in joists without offsetting them. I finally bought some longer screws, which of course used Torx, and I Had been concerned with pre-drilling at an angle, with the slope of the ceiling.

Except I am not up against the ceiling, I am up against that pink cotton candy.

I cut and installed 2x4s against the front to support the corners of the new section.

I couldn't find my long Torx driver or my small extension. The screws wandered too much, at least on the 6" extension I found.

In some places I couldn't fit the extension, at least until I drove the screw as far as I could, so I pre-drilled, started with the bit, and then switched to the extension.

I put in a cleat to hold one end of the boards while I screwed in the other, cut, and installed the next set of boards.

I felt disappointed to only do one set.

It was raining and with all of the lumber that I have bought over the years, the wood I bought to make that lady a wheelchair ramp, and the wood I pulled out of the shed, which had supported some ugly shelves, I only have 2 2x4s left.

I need to cut another board like the one that I installed in the front, but it won't be long enough to reach studs besides the first one.

I could cut through the foam in the back, insert spacers, screw through the siding, and then screw the edges of the back joist to that.

That doesn't sound stable.

Neither does cutting through the fiberglass and trying to secure it to the roof, on top of needing to seal screws that I put through the roof.

Also, I loathe trying to screw through siding or the roof when I don't have x-ray vision.

I think that my best bet is to cut a narrower piece, screw it to the main one, and screw that to the back.

I don't know how to reduce flex more than that without cutting a 1.5" between the back studs, attach them to the studs, and then screw the new joist to that.

[freebeard]

This is a humblebrag.

The 4x12ft corrugated metal canopy between the 'Airstream' and the carport was blown away in a windstorm two winters ago.

I finally got it reassembled and reinstalled today. This time it has tie-downs made from plumbers tape.

I'm really slow going up and down ladders.

[Xist]

There is a video about enclosing a Harbor Freight garage with corrugated metal.

He called it PBR, but said even the people who sold it didn't know that name, and said a metal supplier would charge much less than a box store: https://youtu.be/EeEM5TUu75o

I found other videos of people doing similar things., so it seems surprisingly common

When I found out that drywall was available in 14' I shuddered thinking of how difficult that would have been.