Paul & Sabrina's cheap DIY 144v motor controller - Page 268 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

jackbauer · 12-01-2009, 05:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

Hey Joe! Have you had a chance to try the over-rev protection code yet?

......you mean the over rev protection code is now available ?? Why am i always the last to know

bigh · 12-01-2009, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerpelea

hy all

we can use an moddified eeepc 7" as panel pc
(i will post conversion pictures)
and get an serial port using usb2RS232 convertor

can be wired to controler and used for RTD Explorer

power usage is under 20W
weight is under 1kg

I wonder if we could re-program one of these as an alternative - it purports to run WindowsCE 5.0:
7" in dash touchscreen GPS Bluetooth

jyanof · 12-01-2009, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

That's with the dang mosfets/diodes not even clamped down very well! hahaha.

Hey Joe! Have you had a chance to try the over-rev protection code yet?

no! I want to, though. It would provide a good excuse to get my tach working again, and some added safety.

jerpelea · 12-01-2009, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigh

I wonder if we could re-program one of these as an alternative - it purports to run WindowsCE 5.0:
7" in dash touchscreen GPS Bluetooth

you can but is better to use windows xp (the one thta the device came with)
and an xp gps software (igo for pc/ms route) with an usb gps receiver

jackbauer · 12-01-2009, 05:00 PM

Regards the 1.3 code is there anything i need to look out for apart from the baud rate to run at 8mhz?

MPaulHolmes · 12-01-2009, 05:06 PM

No. Nothing! Everything is a go! I repeat, it's a go!

watt-a-mezz · 12-01-2009, 10:34 PM

Paul, is there any non tech way to test the control board. Saw the new
assembly pics on the website, they are way better. Looked for the
circles, and most show, but I would like to test. My j2 and j3 didnt turn
out, will need to get new ones. Oh well, live and learn. Watt

MPaulHolmes · 12-01-2009, 11:03 PM

One way to test is to check with an Ohm-meter from the solder joints that have rings around them to the ground plane. If there is a short to the ground plane, then that has to be fixed. I'll get those little pieces mailed out tomorrow or thursday. I just have to work until 8pm tomorrow.

watt-a-mezz · 12-02-2009, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

One way to test is to check with an Ohm-meter from the solder joints that have rings around them to the ground plane. If there is a short to the ground plane, then that has to be fixed. I'll get those little pieces mailed out tomorrow or thursday. I just have to work until 8pm tomorrow.

Thanks Paul. Tried the HF Meter and I have it set at 200 Ohms. When I find ground it goes from 1 to 005-7. Is this what it is supposed to do? I am about
green as grass with electronics, Trying to learn. Appreciate the little parts. Will try to get the rest when I get the CB sorted out. Watt.

MPaulHolmes · 12-02-2009, 12:23 AM

Hey Watt! First, let's make sure you are touching the ground plane with one of the probe ends. Let's see here...On the underside, it's the little pads that aren't isolated by an island. If you touch an "isolated island" with one probe, and the other probe to the ground plane, and it doesn't still say "1" (which means infinity resistance), but instead says almost 0, like 5 ohms or whatever, then houston we have a short! haha. Mark the ones on paper or something that have a short, and let's make sure they really do.