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Old 02-04-2011, 03:52 PM   #4291 (permalink)
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I'm ordering parts right now.. and can't seem to find the "electrically conductive silver epoxy" do you have a Mouser or digikey number for that? thx

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Old 02-04-2011, 03:56 PM   #4292 (permalink)
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8331-14G MG Chemicals Chemicals

BAM!

The bad part is, you now have enough for like 8 controllers. haha
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Old 02-04-2011, 05:02 PM   #4293 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
Hi Short circuit! Number 5 is alive!!!!!

You need analog signals converted to pwm? Like a throttle converted to pwm? What's the voltage on the scooter? You could probably just use something like a 7805 if the voltage is less than 35v, and power the micro with that. IT could be really really cheaply done.

the OSMC can drive anything from 6-48V (I think) but it's input is 5V

I was thinking of using either an arduino, or whatever the circuit is that you are using.... (because I need to program in ramp-up to speed and max throttle knob. )

do you have a schematic (and possibly a board) for just the microcontroller part?
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Old 02-04-2011, 05:06 PM   #4294 (permalink)
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shortcircuit, you can find the schematics here:

Open ReVolt/PCB Schematics - EcoModder
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Old 02-04-2011, 06:31 PM   #4295 (permalink)
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hi paul, I have one of your controllers all ready, and i put it together with the help file, so were you having problems with it the old way, should i take mine apart and use the inserts instead?
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Old 02-04-2011, 06:52 PM   #4296 (permalink)
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Hi Bill! I'm sure it's fine the other way. Joe had a problem with his after about a year, but there were extenuating circumstances. It was the 2nd controller I had ever put together, and the holes didn't line up very well once I put it together, so I drilled through everything, leaving bits of junk and metal shards inside it. I tried to vacuum it all out, but evidently I didn't do a very good job. Also, the heatshrink tubing had been mangled somewhat when I put the bolts in originally because of my crappy alignment. I used smaller holes back then, and the holes weren't lined up. So, a few months ago, his had a short inside where the pcb and the bolts meet, so he added those plastic washer things and put it back together and it worked. It seemed easier than the heatshrink tubing, but I think either way is fine.
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Old 02-04-2011, 08:01 PM   #4297 (permalink)
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thanks paul, after the operator error that i had with mine, it has been working well now for a few months, so I will leave it alone and just drive.
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:25 PM   #4298 (permalink)
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OK, I finished adding the precharge relay and precharge resistor. The resistor is rated for 50 amps at 550v and is 20 Ohms, and is self protecting, so that if the temperature rises, the resistance starts to drop, but once the temperature goes above like 75 degC, the resistance goes really really high. So, when you turn the key and turn on the 12v, the caps will precharge in around 1.5 seconds. But because of the voltage monitoring, if there's some sort of short in the mosfets or capacitors or whatever, and the caps aren't charging, it just won't close the main contactor, and it will flag an error. At least that's what the code will do once I get that stupid friggen self righteous "can't change the video mode back.... um..." ubuntu working again.
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:03 AM   #4299 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

Does anyone want to pay for a beta testing prototype 1000amp controller that might blow up and kill quite possibly the entire population of the earth, and maybe even that of the moon? I have the thru-hole control board done, but I'm just letting it sit there for a few days, percolating, checking it each day. The errors I have found are asymptotically decreasing. I think it very unlikely that there are errors on the control board. Each sub-circuit has been checked and tested. Here's the problem I have: 3 new boards! 3 setup fees! monkeyturds of alabama! Makes me mad. "setup fees" ya right. This is China. They just have religious and political prisoners doing all the work. And they work for free, otherwise their entire family will be killed instantly. I'm not sure about the accuracy of the above statements.

It's basically the same price of components as the control board, but 3/8"x3/4" bus bars instead of 3/16"x3/4", so that's more. And longer heat spreader, and 14 mosfets instead of 10, and 14 fancy diodes instead of 10 non-fancy diodes. and like 21 or 22 bus caps instead of 16. I'm going to bus a cap in your bottom, and like $35 worth of super fancy polypropylene metal film caps. The control board is close to the same price, except for an extra $5 for the "precharge stuff".

Oh, I modified the footprint of the DC-DC so that "other" DC-DC can fit there with the 15v output, so that the uberfancy driver board can be used with the control board, for those that like IGBTs. But I need to doublecheck that everything is good with the interface. Do they just need a non-isolated signal from the microcontroller? IT would take like 15 seconds of searching to find that information out! and I don't feel like it right now! ya!
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Old 02-05-2011, 01:03 AM   #4300 (permalink)
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paul Im absolutly interested, when will you be ready, btw, I dont know where you get the mosfets from but allied electric has them for 5.26 each 4.80 for 20+, that is where im getting them from. ill take one of the power and control boards, and you tell me which diodes and the super fancy caps, and I will put it together and use it on my new truck conversion(still looking for the truck) here in az.

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