12-13-2011, 05:57 PM
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#5291 (permalink)
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EV DIYer
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC
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Well, I connected the controller, set up the laptop connection and switched it on, only to find that the contactor would not close after the precharge. I could activate it by applying 12 volts directly to the contactor (with the battery pack disconnected), but the controller would not power it. Would it be a bad Q1?
Amin
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12-13-2011, 06:17 PM
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#5292 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amino
Well, I connected the controller, set up the laptop connection and switched it on, only to find that the contactor would not close after the precharge. I could activate it by applying 12 volts directly to the contactor (with the battery pack disconnected), but the controller would not power it. Would it be a bad Q1?
Amin
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Was there any fault code?
-Adam |
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12-13-2011, 07:01 PM
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#5293 (permalink)
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EV DIYer
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When I turned the key on, it would show the Precharge Fault and and High Pedal, which both cleared up after the precharge completed and the led stopped flashing. However, the contactor would not close.The led stayed on and would start flashing on applying throttle. However, the contactor would not close.
I have been trying to trace the fault. With the controller on the bench again, I checked the voltage at pin 2 of the optoisolator U9, and it reads 4.91V on switching on and 3.75V after precharge. There is no change at pin 4 though.
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12-13-2011, 07:57 PM
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#5294 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amino
The led was flashing as it normally does when you switch on and is supposed to stay steady after the contactor closes, if all is well.
How do you tell what condition the led is flashing? The Kelly controller has error codes, but I don't think the Open Revolt with the rev. 2C control board does.
Amin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amino
When I turned the key on, it would show the Precharge Fault and and High Pedal, which both cleared up after the precharge completed and the led stopped flashing. However, the contactor would not close.The led stayed on and would start flashing on applying throttle. However, the contactor would not close.
I have been trying to trace the fault. With the controller on the bench again, I checked the voltage at pin 2 of the optoisolator U9, and it reads 4.91V on switching on and 3.75V after precharge. There is no change at pin 4 though.
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So the led starts flashing when you push the throttle?
Is a fault code shown in rtd? Does the data stream keep flowing?
Did you adjust te throttle like I mentioned, I would eliminate the dead band while testing.
Also, if you start rtd, go to file and save CSS, then excecise the controller into the fault and then close rtd. Email me this file at adamj12b AT gmail.com.
-Adam |
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12-13-2011, 10:42 PM
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#5295 (permalink)
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PaulH
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Amin, what sort of contactor do you have? Do you know if it has an economizer? Are you powering the control board with an auxiliary battery or a DC-DC? Do you have a diode across the coil of the contactor? Um... I can't think of anything else.
Another fault that I added is if you give it throttle when the contactor is open, when the pwm goes to 100% and the current feedback is zero, it gives a fault. I would check to see if Q1 is bad. If it is, your coil may not have an economizer on it?
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12-13-2011, 10:50 PM
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#5296 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Alright, I think Ive got some insight.
Your controller is triggering 4 different faults, at different times.
The most common one, and worst is hex code 1 binary 00000001. This is a throttle fault code.
There is also codes for Paul's pwm with no feedback fault hex 8 binary 00001000.
The other 2 faults are for high pedal lockout and precharge. codes 10000000 and 00100000 respectively.
The throttle fault is what is causing the trouble. What are you using for a throttle pot?
After looking at the files again, the pot was not connected for some time.
If you look at these lines, you can see the throttle connected, then disconnected and then connected again. The 3rd column, RT, is the signal from the ADC.
Code:
TIME TR RT CR CF HS PW FB BA AH TempF
1009.5 0 717 0 0 153 0 0 0 5 40
1009.6 0 717 0 0 153 0 0 0 5 40
1009.7 0 717 0 0 153 0 0 0 5 40
1009.84 0 717 0 0 153 0 0 0 5 40
1009.92 0 717 0 0 153 0 0 0 5 40
1010.01 0 717 0 0 153 0 0 0 5 40
1010.1 0 716 180 90 153 22 0 4 5 40
1010.2 0 717 0 0 152 0 0 0 5 40
1010.3 511 0 0 0 152 0 1 0 5 40
1010.4 511 0 0 0 152 0 1 0 5 40
1010.5 511 0 0 0 153 0 1 0 5 40
1010.6 511 0 0 0 153 0 1 0 5 40
1010.7 511 0 0 0 153 0 1 0 5 40
1010.8 511 0 0 0 153 0 1 0 5 40
1010.9 0 706 0 0 152 0 1 0 5 40
1011 0 716 0 0 152 0 1 0 5 40
1011.1 0 713 0 0 152 0 1 0 5 40
1011.2 0 715 0 0 153 0 1 0 5 40
I got to go to bed now. gotta get up early. This should give some insight.
-Adam |
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12-13-2011, 11:02 PM
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#5297 (permalink)
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EV DIYer
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Hi Paul, I have a KiloVac EV200AAANA contactor with 'economizer attached', so does not need a diode The board is powered by a small auxillary battery which is charged by the DC-DC converter.
Q1 seems okay, but I might try replacing it and the optocoupler U9 as well after I get them from a local electronic component supplier. Any idea what the voltage readings should be at U9 and Q1 before and after precharge?
I have sent Adam the cvs files I saved when I tested the cold controller earlier today.
Amin
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12-13-2011, 11:42 PM
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#5298 (permalink)
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PaulH
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I would check the throttle like ADam was saying too. It's going from infinite resistance to zero to infinity to zero again. Each time it's in the 700's it's basically zero throttle. When it's "0", that's impossibly large. (See TR column above)
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12-14-2011, 01:09 AM
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#5299 (permalink)
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EV DIYer
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Adam is right, I had seen the sharp changes in the graph when I touched one of the wires going to the 5K (PB6) pot, and corrected that. That may have been the original problem of not starting at very low temperatures, but it did not close the contactor after tightening the connection.
I did not save the cvs file after I had redone the connection, but it was still not closing the contactor. There was no 12 volts at the contactor wire after the precharge time.
Should the output of U9 go to 0 volts when the precharge is complete, to trigger Q1?
Amin
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12-14-2011, 01:31 AM
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#5300 (permalink)
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PaulH
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I think I heard Tesseract say that you need a diode across even the ev200 with the economizer. I'm not sure, as I've never used an oscilloscope on it after turnoff, but it might not be a bad idea.
Pin 4 of U9 should go to zero volts (close anyway) to turn on Q1. Pin 3 should be stuck at 0 volts all the time. Pin one should be 5v all the time. When the contactor is OFF, Pin 2 should be 5v. When the contactor is ON, pin 2 should be 0 volts.
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