09-08-2012, 11:19 AM
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#5841 (permalink)
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PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
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Brushless DC is actually pretty different though than this controller. One of those is really an AC motor of sorts.
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Today
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09-12-2012, 03:11 PM
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#5842 (permalink)
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PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
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I just got 2 mosfets and 2 diodes for the 1000amp test at around 180 or 190amp, using the huge inductor and resistance wire. I hope it works this time!
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09-15-2012, 10:03 PM
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#5843 (permalink)
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Timmy
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Australia
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hi
just a question of "potential" if the controller (dc500/1000amp) was driving a
WarP11HV (inter-poled neutral timing dc motor) with a
controller controlled reverse contacter and some
software tweeking
could this setup do regenerative breaking (more for the breaking with no mechanical wearing parts then for power).
My thought with very limited knowledge thinks the inter-poles will allow the motor to do reverse with no commutator sparks etc, if its controller controlled it can be done right (kill power, energies reverse contactor apply desired power level to get regen/breaking).
Setting up the logistics of getting the hardware controls (break pedel/controller/break master cylinder/reverse contactor) might require another control board if the controller cant handle it natively.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to timmytool For This Useful Post:
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09-17-2012, 09:15 AM
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#5844 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Charlton MA, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmytool
hi
just a question of "potential" if the controller (dc500/1000amp) was driving a
WarP11HV (inter-poled neutral timing dc motor) with a
controller controlled reverse contacter and some
software tweeking
could this setup do regenerative breaking (more for the breaking with no mechanical wearing parts then for power).
My thought with very limited knowledge thinks the inter-poles will allow the motor to do reverse with no commutator sparks etc, if its controller controlled it can be done right (kill power, energies reverse contactor apply desired power level to get regen/breaking).
Setting up the logistics of getting the hardware controls (break pedel/controller/break master cylinder/reverse contactor) might require another control board if the controller cant handle it natively.
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This could possibly work, but would actually cause you to use power from your batteries to stop your vehicle.
Would you still have mechanical brakes as a backup?
-Adam
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09-17-2012, 07:57 PM
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#5845 (permalink)
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Timmy
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Australia
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hi
In reply to Adam, you got to apply power in the controller to make the circuit so it can generate power, that being said when thinking about it (unfortunately I have little/no practical experience) the mosfets and diodes are designed to stop power going in reverse yes?
When the reverse contractor(and the controller) is excited the +- bar arrangement is basically reversed, maybe for power/stopping the controller needs to be wired in backwards, possible with one or more reverse contactors but this maybe to dangerous.
On the mechanical break front, most definitely plus it is a legal requirement in my part of the world.
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09-21-2012, 11:37 AM
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#5846 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Germany, Saarland
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Problem with my Open Revolt Controller
Hi im new here and i dont know if im right here or not.
But i have issues with my OpenRevolt Controller. so i build the 2c version with a already programmed controller from Paul and sabrinas website. Now when i turn it on the green Led turns on and after a second the yellow led starts blinking. And thats all. I use a small lifepo4 battery to power the unit and i added a small poti from 0-5k ohm. Not a real gas pedal just a normal poti like you get a mouser or digikey. But i guess that should not be the problem.
What can i do? What does the yellow flashing mean?
thanks from germany
Johannes
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09-21-2012, 11:41 AM
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#5847 (permalink)
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PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
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The blinking LED means there's an error. So, either the throttle isn't starting at around 0 Ohms, or the current sensor isn't hooked up right. Is it getting +12v at J1, and is the 12v ground isolated from the battery pack ground?
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09-23-2012, 03:01 AM
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#5848 (permalink)
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PLUGnGO
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Olympia Wa
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Hi
First time poster, been trying to read through and catch up a little. Whew!
I was trying to find the schematic for the cougar 500 rev C. Looks like it should be in the wiki here:
ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/PCB_Schematics
I get a 404 file not found message for most of the files listed there. Have the schematics been moved? Are they still available?
Thanks
Jerald
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09-23-2012, 03:07 AM
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#5849 (permalink)
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PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maricopa, AZ (sort of. Actually outside of town)
Posts: 3,832
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Shut up!!! I'm in Olympia too! hahaha. I live really close to the Regal 16 Cinemas. I could always print the schematic and give it to you. lol. Or just email me (actually my wife) at barbiesbla@gmail.com. I can email it to you. The wiki has "issues".
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09-23-2012, 03:29 AM
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#5850 (permalink)
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PLUGnGO
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Olympia Wa
Posts: 137
Thanks: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes
Shut up!!! I'm in Olympia too! hahaha. I live really close to the Regal 16 Cinemas. I could always print the schematic and give it to you. lol. Or just email me (actually my wife) at: I can email it to you. The wiki has "issues".
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Thanks Paul
I am in the South Bay area - very close. When the time comes I may have to ask you for a break on Shipping Charges.
I will send an E-mail asking for the files.
Jerald
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