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Old 06-05-2011, 09:45 PM   #4841 (permalink)
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It might be deep in this thread, but I also think it's changed over time.
What is the proper startup sequence and/or wiring for the controller. I was thinking 12V power to the controller with the key. Then, provided the controller was healthy, you would press a 'power on' button, the precharge would start, then a seperate timer would energize the power.
Does the controller have to be powered on before the high voltage is applied? Can it be powered at the same time the precharge starts? I get the feeling that timing isn't that critical, as long as precharge happens.
But I guess let me back up. My buddy and I 'JimDear' put the controller together last christmas. Now we're just about ready to put the controller in the pulling tractor. 3Px50S headway batteries, 13 inch motor chained to a 7.5" ford rearend. Should be interesting.

Darin

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Old 06-05-2011, 10:44 PM   #4842 (permalink)
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On mine, I turn the 150V on through the precharge resistor and then turn on 12V when it gets to 135V or so.
Turn off is the opposite, 12V off first then 150V off. That has been working very well for six months or so.
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Old 06-06-2011, 02:02 AM   #4843 (permalink)
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Taken from assembly instructions:
Quote:
For startup, turn on the 12v power to the controller. The 12v power to the controller should be from the auxiliary 12v battery, or a DC-DC converter. Next, pre-charge the capacitor bank. Finally, close the main contactor and drive away.

For turning off, open the main contactor (and the pre-charge circuit if it isn’t already open) and then turn off the 12v power to the controller.
I use pretty simple relay control and let controller open the main contactor. No problems so far.
http://koti.mbnet.fi/huski/golfwagen...control_en.png
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Old 06-06-2011, 08:00 AM   #4844 (permalink)
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I think some of this is built into the new board that Paul has. Am I right on that, Paul?

badfish, for as long ago as you say you built it, you probably don't have the "new board."
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Old 06-06-2011, 08:11 AM   #4845 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevyn View Post
I think some of this is built into the new board that Paul has. Am I right on that, Paul?

badfish, for as long ago as you say you built it, you probably don't have the "new board."
Check. The new 1000A controller as a build in precharge.
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Old 06-06-2011, 07:45 PM   #4846 (permalink)
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It's software rev 1.11b I think. Yeah, when you put a value in the precharge timer it flashes the yellow light and indicated on explorere when the precharge timer is timing. Pretty neat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevyn View Post
I think some of this is built into the new board that Paul has. Am I right on that, Paul?

badfish, for as long ago as you say you built it, you probably don't have the "new board."

Guess the easiest would be just to precharge and apply 12V to the controller at the same time. When the controller times out, close the main contactor.

I just remember reading a story about the controller going full PWM when the power wasn't applied(trying to develop desired current), then when the power finally came on, it was full power at a standstill.


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Old 06-06-2011, 09:57 PM   #4847 (permalink)
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Well Today there was a causality. Tonight I was trying to figure out why the controller in my golf cart was acting up. Well as it turns out, A bolt that holdes the heat sink to the case came loose and caused the controller to rock back and forth. In doing so, it kept shorting out and stressing something. There is actually a chunk missing of the case from where it was shorting.

Here is a graph of controller operation before I found the short.



You can see that current is in the range of 133A with 0 throttle....Something wasn't right.

Well once I found the short, and corrected it, I took the car for a ride. It went great for about 5 minutes. The I heard the dreaded pop. I look back at the controller and there was some smoke. At first I didnt realize what it was, thinking it was a cap, as that s what it sounded like. The it happened again. This time lurching the cart. Well I knew this was the end of the controller since I wasnt even driving hard. SO!! I decided to have some fun.

Ive been meaning to upgrade the batteries for some time, Just havnt gotten around to it. So I doug out my 2 Sears Diehard Platinum PM1 batteries and added them in series with the 6 - 6V batteries for 60V. I was able to get a speed test in before the controller got upset. I got it up to 30.4MPH!.

Well I kept driving to the end. A few more big pops and fizz's and I knew it was almost done. Thats when I took this!



It did not last quiet as long as I thought, but it really went out well.

[IMG]
Untitled by AdamBrunette, on Flickr[/IMG]


Untitled by AdamBrunette, on Flickr

Well now I can begin work on a new 2 IGBT 600A version. The logic board from this one is still good so I will transfer that over. I will be dissecting this one soon.

-Adam
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:02 PM   #4848 (permalink)
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Yipes Adam! Cool smoke and flame job!
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:14 PM   #4849 (permalink)
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Hmmm - time for fire extinguishers to come as a standard part of the kit....
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:18 PM   #4850 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennelson View Post
Hmmm - time for fire extinguishers to come as a standard part of the kit....
Ben,

Dont forget that this is a an early prototype I designed 2 years ago. Its not of the same design as Pauls.

Im still excited to see the inside of the controller to see what actually failed.

-Adam

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