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Old 12-02-2012, 07:23 AM   #5921 (permalink)
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Hey folks would anyone be interested in a group buy on these babies :

Box of (6) Mitsubishi Powerex CM600DY-12NF 600V/600A IGBT Modules | eBay

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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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Old 12-02-2012, 08:59 AM   #5922 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackbauer View Post
Hey folks would anyone be interested in a group buy on these babies :

Box of (6) Mitsubishi Powerex CM600DY-12NF 600V/600A IGBT Modules | eBay
Hi Jack,

I was beginning to think that your new house swallowed you...

You might consider contacting Tesseract on DIYEC since these look just like what he bought at the AZD auction last month.

Were you planning to sort them based on current matching as Adam did last time?


Cheers

Mark

Edit: also take a look at
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-P...item27cd8c7f60

From the same AZD auction. I believe that these are used in the DMOC445
and the one that you have shown are from the DMOC645.

Last edited by Weisheimer; 12-02-2012 at 09:30 AM.. Reason: added a link to a similar lot
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:57 AM   #5923 (permalink)
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Thanks Mark. Yeh the house move was a job and a half! Just getting back to normal. I could do the current matching if required.
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:41 PM   #5924 (permalink)
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I really wish I could buy a bunch of those IGBTs, but we're moving in 2.5 weeks now, and our lovely daughter trapped in Kenya had her school fees that had to be paid for next year, and given their lovely "everyone must have the exact same thing" approach to life, the daughter of the woman that we're paying to take care of her also gets to go to school. yay. That was a painful western union trip. Also, the woman deals in illegal "illicit brew" as they call it. hahaha. I feel better now. I think the woman's also a prostitute, since there's always a different guy that's in the background when I call her. LOL. ALSO, her last boyfriend just stole our daughter's TV and ran away!!! We bought that for her. oh I'm so mad, but this makes me feel better.

I took a bunch of pictures of a shop thing at Home Depot, and as soon as we move, and get the concrete poured in the back yard, I'm going to look at the pictures, and try and build a shop, and then I'm back and ready to go! This time with actual room, without certain people knocking all my stuff down in the garage and walking all over it!
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:01 PM   #5925 (permalink)
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I was about to buy two of them.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jackbauer View Post
Hey folks would anyone be interested in a group buy on these babies :

Box of (6) Mitsubishi Powerex CM600DY-12NF 600V/600A IGBT Modules | eBay
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:26 PM   #5926 (permalink)
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Just about to move! Here's the mill in pieces. Man that was a nightmare:
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:26 AM   #5927 (permalink)
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Hi Paul

Last week I finally got my car wired up - switched it all on
Had a bit of a fright as something went puff in the controller and a small cloud of smoke came out

Everything worked OK - I think the puff was an errant spider - highly illegally drove it down the hill and along the road
Had no difficulty zooming up the hill on the way back!

Anyway - what should the resistance be between the motor bus-bar and the heat sink?/controller baseplate

I am getting a real low value - in the ohms - my controller is mounted to the chassis and this worries me
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:04 AM   #5928 (permalink)
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If all the wires are disconnected from the controller, the resistance from the base plate/heat spreader to each of the bus bars should be large. Somebody else was asking about that too. He was getting a very different resistance from bus bars to base plate with the controller hooked up than with it disconnected. I'm not sure what's going on in his situation. I think it's a connection from battery pack to chassis someplace else in his case.

Did the puff of smoke come from inside the controller?
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:53 AM   #5929 (permalink)
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Hi Paul

I have disconnected all of the wires
Controller 12v neg, pos
Throttle position wires
(not using the contactor control wire)
Battery neg, pos
Motor

Testing I get
Battery negative bus bar to heat sink ~ 7 Meg ohms
Battery positive bus bar to heat sink ~ 700 Meg ohm
Motor bus-bar to heat sink ~ 3 ohms

Start-up smoke

I was sitting in the car - from there I can see into the motor end of the controller
(I have not made any end plates up - maybe I should)
My precharge system used a halogen bulb - which was blown - did not work

I switched on the 12v system - this switched on the negative contactor
and the 12v to the controller
There was an electrical click and a puff of smoke came out of the motor end of the controller
Then switched on precharge - didn't work so I switched on the positive contactor
The puff of smoke may have come out when I switched the second contactor

I was thinking - bugger me - its smoked - but when I switched on the forward contactor and pressed the pedal it went,
the reverse worked as well so I went for a quick drive
Great fun! - but highly illegal

I have since then fixed the precharge - I was looking at a discharge system as well but I found that if I switch off the precharge and the second contactor then press the pedal the controller capacitors discharge (making the car lurch a bit)

Now working on fitting some bodywork, bolting the seats down would help as well
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:57 AM   #5930 (permalink)
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What version is your controller?

Quote:
Originally Posted by duncan View Post

Testing I get
Battery negative bus bar to heat sink ~ 7 Meg ohms
Battery positive bus bar to heat sink ~ 700 Meg ohm
Motor bus-bar to heat sink ~ 3 ohms
l
It looks like the motor bus bar is shorted to the heat sink.

If you wired up your controller using the 500Amp cougar mosfet schematic rev 2D that is found on the wiki page--it has a serious labelling error on connector J5 from the controller board to the power board. J1 and J12 are incorrectly indicating their polarity and connection to the battery pack B+ and B-. This may be the source of the short circuit.

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