Paul & Sabrina's cheap DIY 144v motor controller

[jedsmd]

I would be up for just splitting the extra cost 3 ways as we did for the extra igbts.

[MPaulHolmes]

I know they said the wait time for the 1600uF capacitor was 4 weeks directly from SBE. I'll ask them the cost and wait time for the 1000uF one too. Then we'll go from there.

[duncan]

Originally Posted by jedsmd

I would be up for just splitting the extra cost 3 ways as we did for the extra igbts.

Me too

[MPaulHolmes]

Yo, Jedsmd, the IGBTs just got here with your check. hurray! Now I'm going to secretly sneak out of the country and retire on the proceeds.

[flores]

Originally Posted by duncan

Me too

Me too, no problem

[MPaulHolmes]

Hi Paul,

Future has placed an order with us. I will be shipping parts to them this week. Your lead time with them will probably change. I would suggest checking back in with them.

Best Regards,

Jaime Perreault

Customer Service Account Manager & Marketing Coordinator
SBE, Inc.

[duncan]

Hi Paul

I rebuilt my new brain board and I've been driving for a couple of weeks
Going great!

I have noticed that it takes about two seconds to build to full torque when I boot it
I tried to change the ramp up parameter on my last board but it did not seem to accept the changes,

When I get the mighty Beta controller can you set up the current ramp up a lot more aggressively for me
Or explain in terms an idiot can understand how I can do it myself

As I am direct drive I believe that I can afford a more aggressive ramp up

When I'm playing at silly buggers I have lost over a second before I reach full torque - I'm never going to beat the IC boys that way

[MPaulHolmes]

Not a problem. In your case, you could probably adjust the PI loop values (Kp and Ki). Or, you could adjust the throttle settings. Instead of 8 & 0, try

t-pos-gain 20
t-pwm-gain 12
save

The lowest possible current ramp rate on your controller is already like 2000 amps/second or something, so I think the problem is somewhere else.

[MPaulHolmes]

I'm having 3 2gauge wires coming out of the controller to the motor so I could monitor all 3 currents, to see how the IGBTs are sharing current. I wasn't really thinking about it, but a good way to make them share current is to add resistance to the emitter of each igbt. In fact, you are supposed to add sufficient resistance so that you get at least a 0.2v drop at the maximum current (if you can't do a bunch of tests to match them). It just so happens, that a couple feet of 2 gauge wire at 500 amps will give a voltage drop of 0.2v. What are the odds. haha. It's like forcing them to be like mosfets. bam.

I finished lapping all 3 base plates (so they look like mirrors for the igbt mounting), and drilling them, and drilling the copper sheets, and the nomex sheets, and um... drilling and bending the enclosures, and um.... ordering all the parts for the control/driver boards (the parts arrived a couple days ago), and um... I can't think of anything else. The boards are being made. Did anyone hear that flushing sound last week? It was the sound of $175 going down the toilet when I had made a mistake on the board, ordered it to be halted, and started over. bawooosh! haha.

[jedsmd]

Mistakes happen. $175.00/5 boards = $35 per board. I pinged your paypal account for my board. If that's not fair let me know.