Paul & Sabrina's cheap DIY 144v motor controller

[brihoo2k]

I think I'm gonna be sick

[jimini]

Originally Posted by Wherewolf

OK fellow forum lurkers…(wow! – That sounds kind of creepy – but no offense intended!)
You are waiting for the completed version…time to help where help is needed….

I would like to start a challenge to raise some funds so we can buy what we need, when we need it, to continue this amazing project. I’ve been following along quietly for a while, but it’s time to speak up.

I challenge everyone following this thread to match my $20 donation so work can continue into Version 2. A little toasting was a minor setback, but it will drive improvments; we’ve all gleaned ideas for projects of our own, looking forward to the day when we can start building our own controllers based on all of the terrific R&D, and input from the collective mind of this forum.

$20 dollars might be a struggle to some in these troubled financial times, but you will save WAY more than that eventually. Think of it as a future investment to save you money. We will ALL benefit from your donation. In the big scheme of things, this controller is worth way more to you than: 2 tickets to the movies, 4 coffees from Starbucks, 3 packs of smokes, or a few cold adult beverages. (Not that I don’t like drinkin' mind you…..but 20 bucks worth of booze is only the first 4 or 5 drinks, and then it will cost me another $40 to cop a buzz….just not worth it anymore! )

Please accept my Challenge and donate to the cause……if you can't honestly do $20, then please do what you can and Thank You ; If you can do more than $20 , then Thank You! Thank You!

Click on or paste the link below: Then hit the DONATE button under the
"Help FIX the 144V Open Source Motor Controller!"


Green Cars: Videos and More!

Ok..ok…I’ll get off the soapbox now…..Thanks for listening! (and chipping in!)

:EDIT: If the above isn't enough reason to donate, think about this: When all is said and done, and you've built your own unit; if anything breaks, you will know EXACTLY how it was put together - because YOU built it! And THAT knowledge, which is being supplied here by many great people, is PRICELESS!

Try getting all that knowledge from those other controller makers...after you've spent $1600 on a unit....are you going to try to repair it yourself?
:END EDIT:

Wherewolf

Here's $15.00 hope it helps. Jim

[dcb]

Just FYI, I checked W/Paul and Wherewolf is on the level. The donate button goes straight to Pauls email address

[MPaulHolmes]

You guys are so awesome! There have been 7 donations already! I'm so grateful for all of your friendship!! The improved control board parts will be here probably by Tuesday. Then I just need to get some thicker PCB and go to town! Ben, you will be driving 90 mph (once the brushes get advanced. haha) soon. Don't you worry. Just don't do it in the 15 mph zone. Otherwise, there'll have to be another fundraiser, but this time it will be to raise money for bail. haha!

Ben's next controller is going to have no compromises. I have some 3 ounce copper that I was going to settle for. Instead, I'll make sure it's the right size and right thickness. There is a really humble and quiet expert on here that never posts, but just sends emails, and he always has awesome ideas and advice about how to make it better! I'm going to try his suggestions. Fran, the professional vector drive motor controller designer from that Eastern Bloc country is also giving me really awesome suggestions and help through the EVTech list. I'm really excited!

-Paul

[lectruck]

Originally Posted by bennelson

Adopt a Mosfet!!

Go here:
Green Cars: Videos and More!

And click the Open Source Controller Repair fund link in the upper right corner.

I just gave, My Poor dog - Vally "Miss Valentine" the miniture daschund was weeping of the loss of the two canine Mosfets.... Those big puppy dog eyes are sooooooooooooo.... sad.

I posted this after I read Bens and then read the rest of the page, I'm really proud so many other have given also. This is a great cause!! If you bought a new or used controller it would cost so much more than this one will run you, and all future EV'er.

[Roger Heuckeroth]

I was laying in bed last night thinking about the failure, and I woke up at 3:30 AM with possibility that I don't think any of us were considering.

Ben do you have a freewheel diode across the main contactor? If you don't it is possible that the inductive kick back from the main contactor sent a voltage spike back to the controller board that KO'd the DC/DC converter. If this happened when you shut off the car, then when you got back and turned the key the control board was dead and so you suffered a similar fate to Paul's out of sequence failure on the bike controller.

Its easy enough to diagnose. Just check to see if the DC/DC converter is dead. If it is then I bet that's what happened. If not, we can at least eliminate that possible failure mode.

In any case its a good idea to put a freewheel diode across the contactor coil to prevent these spikes.

[GrahamMc]

Paul-

Maybe for this next one you could take some step by step pictures? I am particularly interested in your solution for the power section and how you are attaching the mosfets/diodes/heat spreader and to what. Would be really nice to see the raw materials, then pictures at each step of the way. I think you could even start a Facebook Group for your motor controller. That way you could put in lots of pictures with less restraints. Just a thought.

Also thinking once you have this thing nailed down it would be nice to be able to just click a button and have the parts list populate from several web pages opened in new windows. As I was going through the schematic and trying to round up all the pieces I was unable to determine exactly which part you were calling out. This is due mainly to ignorance, but it would be nice to just know I was getting the right stuff. Yes, all my great ideas are more work for you! Anyway, best wishes, you are the first person I have ever donated $ to on the internet. I believe.

[MetroMPG]

EcoModder will be contributing more moolah as well (a.k.a. adopting another mosfet). The donation will be made in the name of whichever contributor to the Name The Controller contest thread is deemed by Paul to have come up with the best name (Open Revolt! Open Revolt!).

Wherewolf: thanks for reminding the assembled and lurking masses on the subject of helping Paul out. It's obvious he's worth the investment.

[Wherewolf]

Thank you to everyone who has donated! This entire concept of open source supported by interested parties is great!

Paul, I've been working on getting you 2 each of the 4oz boards - I hope to have confirmation on Monday - I'll buy them and get them shipped directly to you as quickly as possible.

I also have a small supply of copper buss bars that I could send you - I'll need to dig them out of the barn - as I recall they are 19" long, 1/4 inch thick, and 3/4 wide? Some might have holes in them, but you can probably cut them up to the sizes you need.

When we are sure the heavier copper boards are what we want, I can proceed with ordering the full sheet of 6oz. I am wondering if you think the design is at a point where we could just have the board maker mill and drill the patterns we need for the power section?

Keep up the great work! and again, Thanks to all the supporters!

Wherewolf

[MPaulHolmes]

Originally Posted by Roger Heuckeroth

Ben do you have a freewheel diode across the main contactor? If you don't it is possible that the inductive kick back from the main contactor sent a voltage spike back to the controller board that KO'd the DC/DC converter. If this happened when you shut off the car, then when you got back and turned the key the control board was dead and so you suffered a similar fate to Paul's out of sequence failure on the bike controller.

In any case its a good idea to put a freewheel diode across the contactor coil to prevent these spikes.

Hey Roger! Don't you just love it when that happens?! Sleeping, and then BAM! That's a great idea. Ben's mailing the controller here, and I can test out the DC-DC converter to see if it's OK. What I like best about it is that it's not my fault! hahaha!

After getting some awesome design advice this morning, there were also possible problems with lots of inductance from the way the grounds were connected between the power section and the control section. I now have a cunning plan! (Black Adder) So sneaky and diabolical, that it would make small babes weep in the night! Well, actually it will just get rid of lots of inductance...

On Ben's next controller, I'm going to make sure that camera is sitting right next to me the whole time! My wife and I will photograph everything! Then, the narration can be filled in later.

Also, we have people (ok, person) that graciously numbered each and every component and made sure each component's part number existed on either digikey or mouser. I know! Both places let you save a list of parts I believe, so I could save that list, and then send it to you all, and you could just paste it into their sites for ordering purposes.

Once everything is working well, it would also be nice to have a group order, because digikey has that

1: $50
10: $25
100: $5
10000: $0.00167

sort of thing going on!

OK, how about Open ReVolt? Ben, you can still call it the Cougar.

I was sort of partial to Lil' miss mosfet, but me and darin were the only ones. Open ReVolt has that defiant, stick it to the man, feel to it. I like the idea about picking on oil platforms or gas pumps or whatever, but I don't think we should have a picture of the boston tea party throwing away curtis and altrax. hahaha! Curtis is actually really really kind and helpful on the phone.