Project: The Anal Probe

[Sven7]

Somebody suggested I remove the air dam. Can't find the quote but here you go! Also blocked up the grille more for those early morning commutes and reworked the front end. Gotta hook up the rad fan indicator to see if it's too aggressive.


No Air Dam by Tyler Linner, on Flickr

Still waiting on some helpers for the tuft testing...

Autumn by Tyler Linner, on Flickr

[arcosine]

Can you run down the dusty road again?

[Sven7]

ja ja ja

I think I may remove the huge belly pan. It's just causing problems. Hanging down on the edges, no real way to secure it in the middle, hanging down in back. The pass. front corner unhooked itself on the road a few days ago. Just a general pain in the butt. I'll probably pick up some lawn edging for an air dam and go that route.

I'll keep everything from the rear beam back, and from the firewall forward. The rest, ugh. No. Is it worth tufting for attached flow on the bottom of the tail if I dont' have a full pan?

Also, this thing needs a front pass. wheel bearing, like, last month. It goes "wee wee wee wee wee" down the road everywhere. Going to call The Alignment Guy and see if I can't get tie rod ends and a front end alignment done at the same time. Problem is I don't have a ton of money at the moment either.

[arcosine]

I changed my front wheel bearing when it went Gurrr....Not too difficult, I changed the whole knuckle got one from the junk yard with a good bearing in it. Did the wheel alignment with string for minimum drag, zero toe in. There might even be a how to video on youtube by Rich Pin. Make sure to check the loose nut behind the wheel.

[Sven7]

Ugh. If it were warm out I wouldn't be overly annoyed about it, but jeez. I don't want to learn how to pull a knuckle in a cold junkyard.

If I'd have known how much the boat tail would have cost I'd have paid someone to do bearings, tie rods, bushings and alignment instead. But it's fun to drive a flying saucer.

[arcosine]

I forgot your up north where its already winter there. I try to find a car that's already partially disassembled, like someone took the transmission out, that makes it easy.

[Sven7]

Once again the Probe decided to be a b&$^%. I was coming home from a fun day (Cars and Coffee, it was a big hit, then saw friends), EOC'ing to a stoplight, and the thing decided to not turn on. It turned over and turned over but wouldn't do anything.

(remember three times it has done a similar thing, but nothing works- not even dash lights. a simple disconnect of the battery solves that though)

It was only a couple miles from home so my dad towed it home with the Yukon. I let the tow strap get slack for a few seconds around the corner, it pulled out and took the bottom of my bumper with it.

Got it home and poked around a bit. After half an hour or 45 minutes it inexplicably started working again. Turned on fine and everything. I drove it to a friend's party and everything worked as advertised.

Just bought a blinker module off Ebay for $21 shipped.

This car will have no more EOC until I can get a fuel injector cutoff switch. It's not worth the chance of getting stuck somewhere.


Cars and Coffee Oct. 2012 by Tyler Linner, on Flickr

[California98Civic]

Originally Posted by Sven7

...EOC'ing to a stoplight, and the thing decided to not turn on. It turned over and turned over but wouldn't do anything.... After half an hour or 45 minutes it inexplicably started working again. Turned on fine and everything. I drove it to a friend's party and everything worked as advertised.

That sounds a lot like the symptoms of my ignition coil failure last year. The coil tested normally when I warmed the car up until the fan came on. But after driving for a while, the dizzy itself got hot enough that the coil expanded a bit and failed. Then if I cooled it for an hour or more, it would run normally again. Replaced the whole dizzy with a new one under warranty from Autozone and the problem has not re-emerged in nearly a year.

[Sven7]

I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires a month or so ago. Or do you mean the actual distributor needs to be replaced? Uffda duffda. RockAuto prices start at $100.

[Varn]

Try removing all of the ignition and fuel injection connectors, clean them and put them back together with di-electric grease. You might get lucky and find one that has obvious green corrosion.

You might test the components once the car is in failure mode by spraying the various modules with compressed gas (for computer cleaning) held upside down. It will freeze the component and may start it working if only momentarily.

Since your car was lazy all summer I am betting on a bad connector somewhere.

Just replacing components can get expensive.