Project: The Anal Probe

[arcosine]

Could be the crank (or cam) position sensor. Jeeps are known to suddenly stop and then restart when cooled down.

[jtbo]

Originally Posted by Sven7

Once again the Probe decided to be a b&$^%. I was coming home from a fun day (Cars and Coffee, it was a big hit, then saw friends), EOC'ing to a stoplight, and the thing decided to not turn on. It turned over and turned over but wouldn't do anything.

(remember three times it has done a similar thing, but nothing works- not even dash lights. a simple disconnect of the battery solves that though)

It was only a couple miles from home so my dad towed it home with the Yukon. I let the tow strap get slack for a few seconds around the corner, it pulled out and took the bottom of my bumper with it.

Got it home and poked around a bit. After half an hour or 45 minutes it inexplicably started working again. Turned on fine and everything. I drove it to a friend's party and everything worked as advertised.

Just bought a blinker module off Ebay for $21 shipped.

This car will have no more EOC until I can get a fuel injector cutoff switch. It's not worth the chance of getting stuck somewhere.


Cars and Coffee Oct. 2012 by Tyler Linner, on Flickr

For example 850 Volvos are known not to start if they are started and very soon shut off, like for example when moving car on driveway, solution is to wait long time or disconnect battery for 30 seconds or so, some bug in ECU unit that makes it not able to start. Sometimes results fault mode, so starts but there is no go.

So that is one possibility, if it happens to be so that you have had short running perioid before non starting issues.

[California98Civic]

Originally Posted by Varn

Just replacing components can get expensive.

Agreed. That's why I like a saying a dude on honda tech uses as his signature file: "test, don't guess."

Originally Posted by Sven7

I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires a month or so ago. Or do you mean the actual distributor needs to be replaced?

I mean MAYBE the actual distributor needs to be replaced. But like Varn said, I'd hope I would keep my patience and test the coil when the car is in fail. When I lost my patience, I replaced an electronic igniter in the dizzy on a hunch that was only partly correct. Only when the new igniter was wrecked by the failing coil did I figure out the root issue. Wasted cash; wasted time.

Sorry this way cool Mad Max project is sticking you right now! Good luck.

[AndrzejM]

I had similar issues with my Dodge, reason for that was faulty MAP sensor.

[Galane]

Had a 1994 S-10 that was all sorts of trouble. Found that the spring in the fuel pressure regulator on the throttle body was rusted and broken. Changed that, changed the fuel injectors, changed the MAP sensor and the throttle position sensor, the knock sensor and I forget what else.

Every thing I changed would make it run better for a while then it'd start running crappy again.

Last thing I changed was the gas cap. Ran perfect after that. Dunno how it ran at all with the fuel pressure regulator not actually regulating.

[Sven7]

It's weird that it wouldn't do that during P&EOC, though. I haven't been doing a lot of it (and have now quit doing EOC all together) but, well, you know. When it happened yesterday Google Maps says I'd been driving for 1.5mi or about 3 minutes after the last stop light, at which the engine was likely off. 50mph speed limit.

I'm going to check and grease the connectors in the injection circuit in the next few days. Remember that my friends replaced the ignition module with one from a Chevy truck some time before I bought it. One of them suggests one of the connections might be icky. Seems reasonable?

Trying to find some under-hood insulation for cheap. It would be nice to come out to a semi-warm car after my four hour shift. Seems legit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-X-10-EZ-Co...4672f8&vxp=mtr

My hours just got cut to 5 days a week or 20hr/week. Less money for car stuff. I'm going to see if I can go to LSPR before getting the wheel bearing done. It's squeaking a bit but it's been doing that for hundreds (thousands??) of miles.

[arcosine]

It might melt and it's flammable. it's only PE plastic. keep it away from the exhaust. You might be better off getting ducting insulation from a home improvement store, if you go with aluminized PE bubble wrap. I use fiberglass cloth on the engine..

[jtbo]

Originally Posted by Sven7

It's weird that it wouldn't do that during P&EOC, though. I haven't been doing a lot of it (and have now quit doing EOC all together) but, well, you know. When it happened yesterday Google Maps says I'd been driving for 1.5mi or about 3 minutes after the last stop light, at which the engine was likely off. 50mph speed limit.

I'm going to check and grease the connectors in the injection circuit in the next few days. Remember that my friends replaced the ignition module with one from a Chevy truck some time before I bought it. One of them suggests one of the connections might be icky. Seems reasonable?

Trying to find some under-hood insulation for cheap. It would be nice to come out to a semi-warm car after my four hour shift. Seems legit:
4' X 10' EZ Cool Automotive Heat and Sound Insulation | eBay

My hours just got cut to 5 days a week or 20hr/week. Less money for car stuff. I'm going to see if I can go to LSPR before getting the wheel bearing done. It's squeaking a bit but it's been doing that for hundreds (thousands??) of miles.

Rockwool is cheap, great insulation, almost impossible to set on fire as it is used around chimneys at 2nd floor here to act as fire cut/break (whatever that is called properly).

But because it is rather soft, one would need some kind of metal mesh/net to hold it on place, however not impossible to fabricate and probably most effect with that, with 100mm thick sheet/block on top of my freezer, I managed to get ice between freezer and rockwool. I wrapped my electric water heater with that and cut it's electricity usage to half and it is really cheap compared to almost anything else.
Bonus is that it is really good sound insulation too.

edit: for metal net look garden fence or dog fence, here we have something called chicken fence and then something I don't know how to translate, it is metal net used to make fish traps that you throw to water and lift next day with alive fishes inside, anyway that has holes size of finger, chicken net has holes size of several fingers, those other are even larger, most probably work, but two smallest ones are perhaps most economical choices and add less weight. I would not put anything plastic there.

[arcosine]

Careful, you'll get an air filter clogged full of rock wool.

[jtbo]

Originally Posted by arcosine

Careful, you'll get an air filter clogged full of rock wool.

No need to put it into intake

Not sure what kind of intake mods Sven is running, but that would be one of the easier things to solve.

One could wrap block with that, using steel wire to keep stuff on place, engine would warm up much quicker and as there are cooling system, excess heat would be vented off. I'm trying to do such for a winter.

Oh yes, here no leaves at trees anymore, also has been subzero temps at nights for more than a month now, not every night, but here and there when sky is clear, so winter preparations are needed already, also winter diesel too, which kills mpg record attempts.