Ren: My '92 Civic

[Ecky]

Originally Posted by Sven7

If I came across a VX transmission for really cheap I'd probably do it.

AFAIK the CX transmission is the same so you might already be fine. (someone please correct me if I'm wrong)

The DX tranny isn't too terribly long though - you're already into diminishing returns swapping the DX for a CX/VX tranny or swapping the D16 out for a lean burn D15, it's not like the engine you have is a gas-guzzler. The D16 has less than 7% more displacement and I've read that lean burn is typically only good for ~3mpg which puts it in the 5-7% range as well.

[arcosine]

I don't have a spreader, i just hit the top of the tapered bolt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqEP9E60i88

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=996fLoJ9Rpw

[Sven7]

Ecky- that's kind of disappointing. I was hoping there would be more of a difference. Do you know what numbers I should look for on the tranny to see which type it is? I am still not sure what trim level the car is.

arcosine- thanks. I got a repair manual yesterday but will take a look at those too.

---
Turned the wheel back and forth yesterday where there is play and the outer tie rod ends didn't move. That leads me to believe the steering issue is either the inner tie rod ends or something in the rack/box. The plan is to install a new ds rod end today because it needs replacing anyway, throw in a control arm bushing that's worn and install the lowering springs myself. After that I'll take it to the alignment guy and have him install the rear control arm bushings, fix the steering and align it (0 toe?). Then I'll put it on daily duty while I acquire snow tires.

Deleted the passenger mirror yesterday but couldn't get the interior trim panel off the drivers side so that's still on. I'm going to try to rig up an interior mirror for the ps today. Also I would like to fab a nice filler panel for the outside but am still debating how to do that. I cut a triangle of plywood to size but it doesn't follow the A pillar tumblehome curvature.

[slownugly]

you cant id it with a number have to get it on the highway. look for around 2k rpms at 60-65 mph. if you are up toward 3k rpms at 60-65 then its not a cx/vx trans. (while in 5th)

if it has the correct ecu and everything is done properly you should be seeing 40mpg tanks in no time. winter takes a toll but its doable.

[Weather Spotter]

fiberglass a mirror cover. paint to match (or black to hide)

[Sven7]

Thinking expanding foam because i dont have fiberglass stuff...

Put in the ds tie rod end... a torch helps.

Tried to pull the ds mirror but had to get the door panel off first. in the mean time i broke the lock lever thing. thanks chilton for not telling me that screw is there.

Going to buy a ps tie rod end tomorrow as well as some more bushings. The correct ones this time, how about?

Later

[Ecky]

Originally Posted by Sven7

Thinking expanding foam because i dont have fiberglass stuff...

Put in the ds tie rod end... a torch helps.

Tried to pull the ds mirror but had to get the door panel off first. in the mean time i broke the lock lever thing. thanks chilton for not telling me that screw is there.

Going to buy a ps tie rod end tomorrow as well as some more bushings. The correct ones this time, how about?

Later

I've broken the lock thingy on my car 3 times.

[arcosine]

Theres a nut on the rack an pinion to adjust the preload, also check inner rod ends.

[Sven7]

What is steering preload and what does it do?

It says to put a spring gauge on the steering wheel and it should be 3.3lbs to turn it or something. If it's off, you can adjust the preload. I guess I'll look at the inner rods today before messing something that I don't know about.

Bought PS tie rod end, returned a bushing, and realized the "bushing" I wanted was actually an upper ball joint that costs a lot. So I'm going to put that off, perhaps until spring. It might be advantageous to just get the whole new control arm with bushing already in, then maybe get a quick front end alignment. NAPA lady said she could get me a deal on those, so I'm pretty happy with that place so far.

I really want to own a car that has new suspension parts, so it'd be nice to get all the front end redone bit by bit. Will I buy quality shocks and springs for it? That's a toss-up decision I'll have to reevaluate later.

Also got some NAPA 5W-30 oil, which apparently is made by Valvoline. And a premium filter. Going to change the oil today, after a nap. I wasted the morning trying to come up with a "new" Voisin c25.

Oh, last night before hitting the sack I pulled the DS mirror. Today bought some convex ones and I'm planning to replicate the Probe's interior mirror setup. Or maybe just swap it over.

I think I'll do the expanding foam thing for the mirror delete panels, then drill some sheet metal screws through the stock holes to hold the panels on. Seems legit.

[Ecky]

Originally Posted by Sven7

Bought PS tie rod end, returned a bushing, and realized the "bushing" I wanted was actually an upper ball joint that costs a lot. So I'm going to put that off, perhaps until spring. It might be advantageous to just get the whole new control arm with bushing already in, then maybe get a quick front end alignment. NAPA lady said she could get me a deal on those, so I'm pretty happy with that place so far.

I really want to own a car that has new suspension parts, so it'd be nice to get all the front end redone bit by bit. Will I buy quality shocks and springs for it? That's a toss-up decision I'll have to reevaluate later.

This too is also exactly what I did. Bought my car with 170k miles - I ended up replacing both of the front lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods on both sides, and CV axles.

Checked and your lower control arms run about $40 each and your upper control arms are $34 each + shipping from jcwhitney, they tend to be among the better priced webstores.

I wish my car wasn't on such stiff springs as I'm sure it caused the premature death of most of those parts but it certainly handles well.