02-19-2015, 06:28 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Technically, your first mod was you taking that first step toward wanting to get more mpgs, the driver mod. You'll find out that changing your habits is also the most effective mod, worth about what all the others combined will ever be.
Wish my first grill block had looked that smooth on Black Widow. I did NOT go for the subtle look!
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02-19-2015, 07:16 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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I would remove 2 strips half way rather than remove 1 completely. small high output motors need to work a lot more so they run hotter. also check your intercooler (below the passenger side headlight if u in a left hand drive car) has proper ventilation you don't want to blow your turbo just yet. other than that im keen to see the results! this is going to be my first mod too also using exact same rc plane materials here we call it solarfilm.
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02-19-2015, 10:45 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Administrator
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I have one slot open on my Prius in summer and when I hit highways. Otherwise its completely blocked off. If you watch your temps you'll be fine.
I wish I had more blocked off on the Metro, just haven't gotten around to it yet. Warm up times really go up with the grill block in place. It would have been nice on my -13F commute in today!
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02-24-2015, 09:03 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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I would suggest to watch temp and your radiator fan, because it doesn't have to be that your engine temp wil rise if your fan is running full speed. But that will affect your FE anyway because of more power needed by the alternator to run the current needed.
You'll find some info here Radiator fan activation temperature
I've connected a red LED with 560ohm resistor in line to see if my fan is kicking in. If the fan is running too much you can open a bit your grille block and let the air to pass it more freely. By trial and error you'll find the best cover size for your grille.
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Gerhard Plattner: "The best attitude is to consider fuel saving a kind of sport. Everybody who has enough money for a strong car, can drive fast and hit the pedal. But saving fuel requires concentration, self-control and cleverness. It's a challenge with the nice effect of saving you money that you can use for other more important things."
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02-24-2015, 09:22 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Master EcoWalker
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Air intake temp seems to fluctuate much more than engine temp, so I watch that most of the time.
You don't want too much heat under the hood for long; the 12V battery suffers when you go above like 40°C - 104°F.
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2011 Honda Insight + HID, LEDs, tiny PV panel, extra brake pad return springs, neutral wheel alignment, 44/42 PSI (air), PHEV light (inop), tightened wheel nut.
  lifetime FE over 0.2 Gigameter or 0.13 Megamile.
For confirmation go to people just like you.
For education go to people unlike yourself.
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02-24-2015, 09:47 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedDevil
You don't want too much heat under the hood for long; the 12V battery suffers when you go above like 40°C - 104°F.
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Yes it's good isea to insulate the battery if you plan to keep the heat under the hood.
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Gerhard Plattner: "The best attitude is to consider fuel saving a kind of sport. Everybody who has enough money for a strong car, can drive fast and hit the pedal. But saving fuel requires concentration, self-control and cleverness. It's a challenge with the nice effect of saving you money that you can use for other more important things."
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02-24-2015, 10:57 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Not Doug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedDevil
You don't want too much heat under the hood for long; the 12V battery suffers when you go above like 40°C - 104°F.
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That's cute!  The current record for Phoenix is 76 days in a row of 100° degrees or higher and our record overnight temperature was 96°. Arizona heat facts - ABC15 Arizona
Yet people insist that I am doing something wrong when my battery only lasts two years... "Oh no, those should last at least five!" |
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02-24-2015, 07:35 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrzejM
I would suggest to watch temp and your radiator fan, because it doesn't have to be that your engine temp wil rise if your fan is running full speed. But that will affect your FE anyway because of more power needed by the alternator to run the current needed.
You'll find some info here Radiator fan activation temperature |
Thanks for the link. I have been watching the dash temp and SG temp and without knowing the actual thermostat rating for my car I'm guessing it is a 195F, since that is where it settles. What I have been seeing, is temps getting up to 197, then back down to 193 or so; I have determined that I am seeing the thermostat opening when the temp drops back. I am only driving about 8 miles one way and ambient temps are in the 30's or lower, so the engine is only up to 195 for a few minutes before I get to work. I may take a longer drive this weekend and then i'll have more data. Based on the link you sent I'm guessing that my fan probably does not activate until at least 210F so, so far so good.
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02-25-2015, 03:12 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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what sort of FE improvements have you been seeing so far? with that mod? did u block the lower grill too?
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02-25-2015, 09:51 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie25
what sort of FE improvements have you been seeing so far? with that mod? did u block the lower grill too?
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I can't say, I haven't fueled up and it's been cold and been driving in traffic. I am more about aerodynamic drag reduction rather than getting up to temp sooner; my ecu goes from open loop to closed loop in less than 30 seconds, even when it's cold, regardless of the grill block. next week i will be taking my road trip 350+ mi, so then I will know more.
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