Team Honda Thread

[darcane]

Originally Posted by sarguy01

Still looking for a manifold? The SRT-4 manifold used to have hairline cracks. Mine did and I never worried about it. Once it heats up, the crack seals. Sure, once it cracks it is only going to get bigger, but I'd wait until it really needed to be replaced. I also would not weld it. Cast iron is very tricky. You can weld it easily, but keeping it from cracking again is really tough.

On Hondapartsnow.com, they don't sell just the HX manifold for the 2001. But, on the 2005's, the HX and LX use the same part number for the exhaust manifold. The O2 sensors are different. So, you might want to check and see if the LX manifold will work. If so, they should be pretty easy to find in a junkyard.

I found those part numbers when I was doing some research into an HX swap to my LX sedan. Well, a modified HX swap. The heads are different, but the HX and EX heads are the same and the EX heads aren't too expensive. The cams are different though. Then there is the O2 sensors, ECM, transmission and wiring harness are most of what I'd need to swap. But, I don't know how much more of a difference the swap would make. A used HX transmission is about $600-800. Not cheap. The head, wiring harness, ECM and O2 sensors should be under $1,000. The gains would probably be minimal. I am already getting 41 mpg. Even if I were to get a 20% increase in mileage and it only cost $1,600 to do the entire swap, it would take 121,000 miles or so to pay back.

I haven't had time to do anything with it, and I'm still driving it (shh, don't tell anyone). Actually, got farther on my last tank than ever before (624 miles). I suspect the headgasket has been slowly failing for quite some time, maybe since before I owned it. It really doesn't show many symptoms other than getting warm. With the digital gauge, I keep very close tabs on it and have just been adding coolant to compensate for the coolant displaced by the exhaust gases.

For now the manifold just seals itself up when it gets warm. My concern for it is mostly when I remove it and reinstall it that the crack will grow significantly and it will need to be replaced. I did figure out that the manifold is not cast, but a two-piece stamped steel part that is welded together.

Here's a decent pic I found online w/o the shroud:


There are aftermarket versions in the $300-400 range, that claim to be for both LX and HX. I still need to decide if I want to try welding of just replace. I figure I've actually got a decent chance that the weld will hold now that I've seen the construction.

I haven't torn it apart since I have to fix my replacement commuter: my wife's Mustang 'vert. It needs a fuel pump and steering rack and I'm really starting to hate working on it.

How handy are you with working on cars? Do you have a FSM? I picked up a used HX tranny for $100 because the input shaft bearing was fried (VERY common problem). A buddy of mine was training to be an ASE certified mechanic, so I had him do it, but I would have done it myself otherwise. I think you'd get the most benefit just from the tranny, especially if you P&G heavily. I wouldn't bother with the rest unless you found someone giving away the parts.

[PaleMelanesian]

Huh. That is definitely different than the 6th gen manifold, which is most definitely cast. They changed the design and it still cracked?

[sarguy01]

Originally Posted by darcane

I haven't had time to do anything with it, and I'm still driving it (shh, don't tell anyone). Actually, got farther on my last tank than ever before (624 miles). I suspect the headgasket has been slowly failing for quite some time, maybe since before I owned it. It really doesn't show many symptoms other than getting warm. With the digital gauge, I keep very close tabs on it and have just been adding coolant to compensate for the coolant displaced by the exhaust gases.

For now the manifold just seals itself up when it gets warm. My concern for it is mostly when I remove it and reinstall it that the crack will grow significantly and it will need to be replaced. I did figure out that the manifold is not cast, but a two-piece stamped steel part that is welded together.

Here's a decent pic I found online w/o the shroud:

There are aftermarket versions in the $300-400 range, that claim to be for both LX and HX. I still need to decide if I want to try welding of just replace. I figure I've actually got a decent chance that the weld will hold now that I've seen the construction.

I haven't torn it apart since I have to fix my replacement commuter: my wife's Mustang 'vert. It needs a fuel pump and steering rack and I'm really starting to hate working on it.

How handy are you with working on cars? Do you have a FSM? I picked up a used HX tranny for $100 because the input shaft bearing was fried (VERY common problem). A buddy of mine was training to be an ASE certified mechanic, so I had him do it, but I would have done it myself otherwise. I think you'd get the most benefit just from the tranny, especially if you P&G heavily. I wouldn't bother with the rest unless you found someone giving away the parts.

Wow. 624 miles. My best is 470ish.

The head gasket issue sucks. Especially since you really can't see it coming on the 7th gens. Mine is good for now. I am doing the timing belt this weekend and thought about replacing the head gasket, but decided that mine isn't showing symptoms. If it goes, I'll just tear it apart again!

If the manifold isn't cast, then I would definitely try to weld it. What's the worst that could happen, you need to replace it anyway??

I can turn a wrench. There isn't much on a car I can't/won't do. An alignment is about it, but I don't have a rack. I do have a lot of tools and a two car garage that both cars fit in, so I have the room as well. I also have a auto hobby shop on base that has a press, parts washer, air tools, etc. I am going tomorrow afternoon to put the Civic on a lift and break the crank pulley bolt loose with the crank tool and an impact wrench. Once I do, I will tighten it back down and drive the car home to actually perform the timing belt surgery.

I also have new axle seals on the way and just got new Moog ball joints and LCA bushings. My passenger side front LCA bushing is about toast. I am going to replace both front and rear with the ball joints, probably next weekend. I just replaced the sway bar links (not cheap for the Moog greasables...$80).

I am always on the lookout for a HX transmission on craigslist. I have the "can of marbles" going on right now in first gear. It isn't too bad, but I will continue to monitor. Worst case, I'll buy an HX trans for a replacement and then sell mine. But, I am putting new bearings in the HX transmission before I install it. That would also be the time I install a new clutch, since everything is apart.

If I change the transmission, will the speedometer stay the same??

[California98Civic]

Originally Posted by sarguy01

If I change the transmission, will the speedometer stay the same??

You'll need to calibrate both speedometer and odometer. Use a gps to compare to your odo readings and derive a multiplier.

[Fat Charlie]

I told my UG that I have a 10.1 gallon tank, giving me about a half gallon of slop. Always need extra at the bottom of the tank with the hills in my area.

[darcane]

Originally Posted by sarguy01

I can turn a wrench. There isn't much on a car I can't/won't do. An alignment is about it, but I don't have a rack. I do have a lot of tools and a two car garage that both cars fit in, so I have the room as well. I also have a auto hobby shop on base that has a press, parts washer, air tools, etc. I am going tomorrow afternoon to put the Civic on a lift and break the crank pulley bolt loose with the crank tool and an impact wrench. Once I do, I will tighten it back down and drive the car home to actually perform the timing belt surgery.

I am always on the lookout for a HX transmission on craigslist. I have the "can of marbles" going on right now in first gear. It isn't too bad, but I will continue to monitor. Worst case, I'll buy an HX trans for a replacement and then sell mine. But, I am putting new bearings in the HX transmission before I install it. That would also be the time I install a new clutch, since everything is apart.

I wish I had a lift I could use. I've got a three car garage, but it's very cramped and difficult to work in.

Good luck with that crank pulley bolt. I needed a breaker bar (1/2", 3 foot long) with a long extension and still a lot of effort to break it loose. I figured somewhere around 300-400 ft-lbs.

If you were close by, I'd sell you my old tranny. But you are about as far away from me as you can get.

[sarguy01]

Originally Posted by darcane

I wish I had a lift I could use. I've got a three car garage, but it's very cramped and difficult to work in.

Good luck with that crank pulley bolt. I needed a breaker bar (1/2", 3 foot long) with a long extension and still a lot of effort to break it loose. I figured somewhere around 300-400 ft-lbs.

If you were close by, I'd sell you my old tranny. But you are about as far away from me as you can get.

Status check...

I took the car and got it on the lift. I got the crank bolt loose, which was really easy, and put the wheel back on. I used an impact gun on the lugs and destroyed a lug nut/stud. So, I got the car home and needed to cut the lug off. The stud spins, so I need a new one. I'll press one in today when I press in out and in the LCA bushings.



Timing belt is done. More details to follow.

[sarguy01]

Finished!! The following were done:
Timing Belt
Water Pump
Tensioner
Cam Seal
Crank Seal
Valve Cover Gasket/Seals
Coolant Change
Power Steering and Alternator/AC Belt
Axle Seals
LCA Bushings
Ball Joints
Two Wheel Studs/Lug Nuts

The timing belt was easy. Lots to do, but overall easy. Getting the car up on a lift and having lots of room to swing a long breaker bar made the crank bolt easy to loosen. The first time I checked, I was several teeth off. I fixed it, checked and double checked, and was good. I also adjusted the valves while I was in there.

The LCA bushings are a PITA. Actually, just the rear bushings are a PITA! I had a press and knocked the front out and pushed the new one in. They are directional by the way...I noticed this after I got the first new one in wrong, then pressed it out and right back in again correctly. Ball joints were easy too. I used Moog greasable ones in hopes that they would last longer.

The rear bushing is next to impossible to press out, unless you have the right clam shell for the press. I had four different clam shells to choose from and still couldn't make it work. I took the control arms home, drill a bunch of holes in the old bushing, hammered the center out, then used a Sawzaw to cut the bushing case out. Then I went back to the shop and pressed the new ones in.

The wheel studs aren't hard, but there is a lot to do. The hub has to be pressed out of the wheel bearing to get to the old stud out and new one in. Easy job, but several steps and the right tools are needed. I had two to replace after I destroyed to studs trying to save time with an impact wrench.

The car makes a lot less noise on the road, but there is still a bit of a clanking noise that I can't figure out. Any guesses? The sway bar links are also new. Struts aren't leaking, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, and the rear end bushings are pretty solid.

Anybody have any idea what this weight looking thing does? I found all three bolts holding it in were loose. Can I take it off? Are there any more?

[darcane]

Originally Posted by sarguy01

The LCA bushings are a PITA. Actually, just the rear bushings are a PITA! I had a press and knocked the front out and pushed the new one in. They are directional by the way...I noticed this after I got the first new one in wrong, then pressed it out and right back in again correctly. Ball joints were easy too. I used Moog greasable ones in hopes that they would last longer.

The rear bushing is next to impossible to press out, unless you have the right clam shell for the press. I had four different clam shells to choose from and still couldn't make it work. I took the control arms home, drill a bunch of holes in the old bushing, hammered the center out, then used a Sawzaw to cut the bushing case out. Then I went back to the shop and pressed the new ones in.

The car makes a lot less noise on the road, but there is still a bit of a clanking noise that I can't figure out. Any guesses? The sway bar links are also new. Struts aren't leaking, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, and the rear end bushings are pretty solid.

Anybody have any idea what this weight looking thing does? I found all three bolts holding it in were loose. Can I take it off? Are there any more?

You had a busy weekend...

I left that weight off of mine. I believe it is simply for deadening harmonic vibrations since I can't come up with any other reason for it. I now have a fair bit of vibration at idle... but I also put in polyurethane inserts in the front and rear engine mounts. Three of the four mounts in my car were FUBAR, and the inserts were much cheaper than new ones. The third I had to replace. Just removing this weight shouldn't have much added vibration, but I suspect you will notice a little.

I did the LCA bushings without a press... definitely a PITA. I used polyurethane here too, primarily because no press is needed to install them.

Glad your timing belt went smoothly. The threads in my tensioner bolt were stripped (when I removed the bolt, the threads came with it) which made for a fun time for me.

As for the thunking... did you check over the rear suspension? Possibly the bushing/bearing at the top of the struts? I've got a thunk in mine that I haven't found either and I've done everything you listed as well.

[sarguy01]

Originally Posted by darcane

You had a busy weekend...

I left that weight off of mine. I believe it is simply for deadening harmonic vibrations since I can't come up with any other reason for it. I now have a fair bit of vibration at idle... but I also put in polyurethane inserts in the front and rear engine mounts. Three of the four mounts in my car were FUBAR, and the inserts were much cheaper than new ones. The third I had to replace. Just removing this weight shouldn't have much added vibration, but I suspect you will notice a little.

I did the LCA bushings without a press... definitely a PITA. I used polyurethane here too, primarily because no press is needed to install them.

Glad your timing belt went smoothly. The threads in my tensioner bolt were stripped (when I removed the bolt, the threads came with it) which made for a fun time for me.

As for the thunking... did you check over the rear suspension? Possibly the bushing/bearing at the top of the struts? I've got a thunk in mine that I haven't found either and I've done everything you listed as well.

LCA bushings without a press? Did you cut them out? I thought about the polyurethane, then decided to go with Moog stock replacement. Did you notice a difference with the poly?

How did you fix the tensioner threads? Helicoil?

I am going to get the car back on the lift and try to simulate the noise. If it is the strut bearings, it should be a fairly simple process. I am hoping it isn't the struts themselves. The KYB's are $350+ for all four. I'd also do the strut bearings as well. That is another $100... But, for the $6,000 I paid for the car, I don't mind some maintenance costs. Used Honda's hold their value well and I am trying to keep this car for a while. I just don't want to dump too much money into it.