Trollinsight Modding Thread (2000 Honda Insight)

[payne171]

I have a little clutch issue in that it has started to develop a shudder. Only in first gear, and either higher revs or a good warmup will solve it, but the revs were never needed before. Any thoughts?

[HyperMileQC]

I'm not a clutch pro, does you clutch slip? If its only in first gear maybe its not the clutch afterall. Can't help much. I never had this problem.

Update : I recently bought a new cabin air filter. I replaced my old air filter (motor) with a new one. My brother gift to me for christmas was a fire blanket . So I installed it and it really help . Its exactly the same as echo-francis one. The 125w heater is not installed yet.

[HyperMileQC]

Little update : I will stop laughing thursday. Didn't stop since September . I'm at 72.8 mpg on the FCD so I will do around 70 mpg and around 730 mi on this tank.

[UltArc]

Originally Posted by HyperMileQC

Little update : I will stop laughing thursday. Didn't stop since September . I'm at 72.8 mpg on the FCD so I will do around 70 mpg and around 730 mi on this tank.

Nice! I thought you had a kill switch, but checking your page, I don't see it.

[HyperMileQC]

I will not do a killswitch. I'll always key on-off-on OEC.

Maybe if one day I have something like MIMA I'll consider a FAS system, but remember that when you kill the engine with the FAS system, you can't bump start to restart the engine.

What I would like to work around is a way to activate or deactivate the DC-DC converter functions with a switch. That way I could preserve my 144v juice and I could charge the IMA battery less often. On short trips, I could let the DC-DC functions off all the way and charge my 12v battery at home with my 2A charger.

[HyperMileQC]

Just filled up yesterday... FCD is off by ~10%. I ran out of fuel just a traffic light before the gas station but I used heavy assist in third gear and I rolled to the pump on electricity only .

Did 65.27 mpg (US) / 3.6 LHK. FCD said 72.8 mpg. That is probably why I ran out of gas XD.

[Insight for life]

Yeah I have usually seen 5-10% less than the fcd shows.

[IamIan]

Originally Posted by HyperMileQC

but remember that when you kill the engine with the FAS system, you can't bump start to restart the engine.

Only in Phase-I of FAS while it is actively cutting the fuel injectors.

In Phase-II all FAS is doing is holding the clutch signal to make the car think you still have the clutch pressed down ( even if you do not ).

I have FAS and I have bump started ... when I FASed down a hill ... and I've also used MIMA to use the IMA to restart ... If I hold in my FAS button I stay in Phase-I which means I can also use MIMA to drive the IMA --- effectively a MIMA-EV-Mode... once FAS is in Phase-II the engine will restart from the RPMs.

Originally Posted by HyperMileQC

What I would like to work around is a way to activate or deactivate the DC-DC converter functions with a switch. That way I could preserve my 144v juice and I could charge the IMA battery less often. On short trips, I could let the DC-DC functions off all the way and charge my 12v battery at home with my 2A charger.

Sounds like you need the DC-DC keep alive... usually combined with FAS.

When the IMA Battery Voltage is present ... any time after the high voltage connector activates in the beginning ... The DC-DC default condition is on in alternator like mode ... the OEM system sends the DC-DC a signal to turn it off ... if you break that signal wire with a relay you fall back to the default condition of DC-DC being on.

Although the DC-DC enable doesn't have to be integrated with FAS as one unit ... that is a commonly used method.

If you haven't seen it yet ... A good write up on the step by step of doing FAS with the DC-DC enable is the one Highwatter did Link

[HyperMileQC]

The "Phases" you are talking about is the switch held on (Phase-I) and the switch relased after engine cutoff (Phase-II) ? If this kill the engine like when you key EOC, then you could really bump start like I do. Not with the electric motor.

About the DC-DC...

If the signal is normal the DC-DC converter default condition is alternator like mode. Then if you cut that signal with a switch. The DC-DC converter will stop working in alternator like mode until you return to OEM signal, right?

Then what doesn't work? What I was thinking about is a way to decide if the DC-DC converter works in whatever condition it wants or is OFF. I was not talking about the DC-DC enable thing. Why would I want to charge my 12v battery even during OEC when what I want to do is make the DC-DC converter work less often. You could compare this idea to an "alternator ON/OFF switch" on conventional cars.

90% of my mileage is short trips. So I could let the DC-DC converter off all the way and charge my 12v battery at home without problem. I want to save the 144v juice for assist and also to charge less often.

[rmay635703]

Originally Posted by HyperMileQC

90% of my mileage is short trips. So I could let the DC-DC converter off all the way and charge my 12v battery at home without problem. I want to save the 144v juice for assist and also to charge less often.

Having owned an insight that doesn't charge the 12v battery I can tell you that it will cause problems, unless your trip is under 15 minutes.

The insight draws a good 20 amps even with a lot of stuff disconnected due to the wastefull dash lights and other goodies.

If you want to attempt I would recommend determining exactly where the juice goes, maybe shut off the dash lighting and get a larger, preferably 14v battery pack.

Good Luck
Ryan