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Old 12-07-2012, 01:04 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennelson View Post
That's a bit beyond what I'm planning on doing right now, but I'd love to see somebody do a complete from-scratch pickup back end like that.
Agreed. And if someone is reading this and contemplating, might I suggest a 1980s Japanese import truck. The bodies are incredibly thin and light, a rubber mallet and a four-year-old could shape a bed easily. My '87 Isuzu Pup woulda been perfect for full-out ecomodding

Slow_S10 described exactly what I was thinking as far as 'filler' panels between the cab and wheel wells. In an ugly duckling truck, I'd simply tack sheetmetal around the cab sides, slope it in cutting the angles as necessary, figure out your curves and use the metal as a mold for foam&glass. More bonuses would be you have a factory bumper, plate mount, tailgate, and taillights.

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Old 12-08-2012, 08:03 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Mwa ha ha ah ha ha ha!

Got some more work done!

I drilled holes in the bottom corners of the cover and put T-nuts in them. They will act as a hole for the prop-rod to go in AND I can thread in eye-bolts to make safety tie-down points as needed.

I glue-coated and then fiberglassed the TOP of the cover.

I took off my last disposable rubber glove to answer the phone in the middle of a resin pour before realizing it was the last of my rubber gloves. Good thing there was a box of Ziplock bags handy. I finished the fiberglassing with one hand in a Ziplock mitten.

The big news is that I got a call back from "Hot Rod" Jim, who helped me with the adapter plate and original LoveJoy coupler on the Electro-Metro project.

I had been wanting to talk with him about my whole "Super-Truck" idea and specifically meet with him about details of connecting the electric motor, transmission, and shortened drive shaft.

I learned plenty just by chit-chatting with him for a bit. He had a number of drive-shafts in the back of his shop and showed how easy it is to use a lathe to chop, shorten, or balance driveshafts.

The current plan is to use a solid coupler (very similar to what was used as the second coupler in the Metro) to attach the output of the tranny to the input of the forklift motor.

We'll need to make a custom yoke that will go on the driveshaft of the motor. This will most-likely mean using the splines from the forklift drum brake to weld to a shortened yoke. Then, the yoke will match the motor on one end, and the drive-shaft u-joint on the other. The driveshaft will be shortened, re-using the components on both ends, but chopping the length of the motor out of the middle. The motor and new short driveshaft will be the exact length of the stock drive shaft.

To mount the motor, I'll add two cross-pieces to the frame of the truck to hold it in place. Ideally, I want to make it so that both the transmission and the motor each have their own supports to the frame of the truck.

That way, I will be able to swap between the motor/short-shaft and the stock shaft anytime I want.

That even means I might be able to drive the truck with JUST the motor without an engine and transmission even in it yet! (I know this sound rediculous, but there are times when it would just be SO nice to be able to move in and out of my garage under its own power!)

I'm also thinking that with the modifications I would have to do to the gas tank to convert to diesel, the better way to go is with a SMALL fuel tank in the bed of the truck. That frees up space under the bed for batteries, and a fuel cell would have it's own large gas cap (which would fit a diesel hose) and I could then reuse the original gas filler port as a cover for the charger power inlet!

I'm starting to feel pretty good about this project - that I'm not totally crazy and that this IS something that I can do.

I'll still need LOTS more help. If anyone wants to start building a 1000 amp motor controller or high-voltage charger for this project, please do!


T-Nuts as "multipurpose holes" for the underside of the cover.


The foam cover, with holes filled in with wood filler, including a large gash I performed with the belt-sander.


A visual discussion of the driveline concept.

More adventures of the day at my blog.
http://300mpg.org/2012/12/08/supertr...s-getting-fun/

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Last edited by bennelson; 12-08-2012 at 08:08 PM.. Reason: photos
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:08 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Just remember to adjust the rear axle angle for the new driveshaft angle to avoid vibrations.
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:48 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zjrog View Post
I am planning to get a Ford Bronco 2 soon, as I have left over parts from swapping everything out of a 94 Explorer into my son's 90 Ranger. That left me with the 2.3 4 banger and 5 speed. Yes, the Bronco 2 is 4x4, and with the 2.3 I was planning to build it for (hopefully) MPGs. Makes me think I could ditch the transfer case, and mount a motor where the transfer case was.
That would be quite a similar concept to the Peugeot 3008 Hybrid4. BTW if you were considering to do so for MPGs, why not to consider a Diesel engine such as the Kubota V-2203 (I'd rather get the one with direct injection over the IDI) or a Volkswagen Diesel?
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:53 PM   #75 (permalink)
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(Above: My Winter Workshop)

Did a little work on the truck.
Hmmm. January in Wisconsin. Sure makes me wish I had a heated workspace...

I decided that I'd like to get the bed off. That would let me see what space I have to work with for the batteries, the motor position, and how I am going to arrange the fuel tank and everything else this project will need.

I PB Blastered the bed-to-frame bolts and managed to get them all out without significant problems. (Other than getting PB Blaster in my eye. It still stings a little. )

I also disconnected the gas tank filler. As somebody mentioned earlier in this thread, maybe one thing I want to do is remove the stock tank. That would give me more space for batteries, and I could install a small racing tank in the bed or at an alternate location under the bed. Since I would need a different filler for diesel pumps instead of gasoline, swapping out to a different tank that would already have a nice wide cap on it might make sense.

I unplugged the tail-light wire harness in the back corner of the truck, and with that, the bed is disconnected. It's still just sitting there, but only gravity is holding it on now.




(Above: With the bed up on spacer blocks, you can clearly see the front two passenger-side bed-to-frame mounts.)

Latest update on my blog is:SuperTruck: Frozen Bed Removal
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:52 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Its a step in the right direction Ben! I like the idea of resizing the tank and/or moving it. That'll definitely give more flexibility in battery placement.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:19 PM   #77 (permalink)
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If I lived closer I would be more than happy to help you lift the bed off!
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:32 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I like the idea of resizing the tank and/or moving it.
I'm thinking a 10 gallon tank. Remember that conversation we had? To go 1000 miles on a single tank, we'd only then need to get 100 miles-per-gallon.

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Old 01-07-2013, 11:45 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Hmmm. January in Wisconsin. Sure makes me wish I had a heated workspace...
Bring 'er over to Ontario! We can roll it inside the shack and light a fire in the woodstove!

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Old 01-08-2013, 02:19 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennelson View Post
As somebody mentioned earlier in this thread, maybe one thing I want to do is remove the stock tank. That would give me more space for batteries, and I could install a small racing tank in the bed or at an alternate location under the bed. Since I would need a different filler for diesel pumps instead of gasoline, swapping out to a different tank that would already have a nice wide cap on it might make sense.
What about to put the smaller tank at the stock location of the spare tyre? I've seen many CNG-converted S10 and Blazers with the CNG cylinders placed there

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