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Old 08-22-2012, 12:12 AM   #171 (permalink)
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Continues to be one of the most impressive efforts on this site... can't wait to see it run next month. I'll have a camera, maybe a good one, maybe a so-so one. We need some kind of banner or something, although maybe your car is a great "banner" all by itself. I bet I can't miss it!

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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.



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Old 08-22-2012, 11:18 AM   #172 (permalink)
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I may be able to join the group over the weekend of Sept. 8,9. I think it should be fun. I am only half a day's drive from Wendover but have never been. This could be the year!

If anyone is coming from the east, may I suggest a more scenic and better route for hypermiling than the westernmost part of I-80 in Wyoming? From Laramie angle down toward Steamboat Springs and take US-40 to Salt Lake. That section of I-80 is known for both lanes full of semi-trucks rolling at 80 mph or greater. Parts of it are not so visually interesting either. If anyone needs a camping spot of grass, I am on Hwy 40 about 7 hours from Wendover. PM if interested.
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The power needed to push an object through a fluid increases as the cube of the velocity. Mechanical friction increases as the square, so increasing speed requires progressively more power.
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Old 08-22-2012, 03:43 PM   #173 (permalink)
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Are you planning to add side-skirts ?
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Old 08-22-2012, 03:43 PM   #174 (permalink)
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Jethro,
I am sure you don't need another project but you do have some rust on your rims. Will that pass tech inspection? Might consider some wire brushing and re-spray.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:11 PM   #175 (permalink)
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Euromodder- Short answer, yes. Longer answer, probably not before the trip. I still have a lot to do and I might have to remove the chin if I can't get the engine cooling under wraps. It wouldn't take long to do, but might need adjusting that I might not have time for.

COcyclist- Thanks for the tips. I might still take 80, but will be better informed as to what to expect. Might have to make that part the "Vetter-esque" portion of the trip.

Varn- The rims only have surface rust, but I'm planning on cleaning them up and painting them flat black already. I don't really think they would be worried about them, but and ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

I talked with our body shop supervisor and he has graciously allowed me to use the paint booth, but only on a weekend. I only have two before the trip, and one of them I'll only have a couple hours on Saturday morning for last minute things.

Time is running out!!!
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:03 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Do you need to safety wire the drains?
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:24 PM   #177 (permalink)
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Nope. AFAIK, the 130 mph class is the only one that doesn't even need a roll cage. Pretty low safety standards compared to other classes. I could be wrong.
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It is always very amusing how our imagination is put to the test when overcoming reality. Redyaris
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Old 08-22-2012, 11:19 PM   #178 (permalink)
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Yep, you have it right. Pretty relaxed standards, street car quality safety gear plus current Snell SA Helmet.

They ARE sticklers for things like battery tie downs (no bailing wire or bungee cords), proper wheel lug nuts (all present and accounted for Sir!), proper rated tires... other stuff on the USFRA website under 130mph club.

Tips: Having been through USFRA tech, and having been through NHRA tech hundreds of times, and have beenTHE tech inspector at member tracks myself, anything that is not factory will get scrutinized for safety. No safety wire on fasteners required, but zip ties holding heavy stuff on is a non-no. Loose interior items, stuff that could come loose in a rollover and beat the crap out of the driver should be fastened down or removed before you tech the car. Aeromods they want held on by rivets (instead of sheetmetal screws, that can vibrate out and cause other cars to get flat tires). Poprivets are great. They will look over your boat tail real good, to make sure it isn't going to fall off and delay the event. If you use salt flat discs wheel covers, they want 6 screws now (I think) or 3 Dzus fasteners (no friction finger held on type allowed). They don't want large oversize penetrations from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment, where fire could find it's way in under speed, and burn the driver. No liquid inside the passenger compartment allowed (no aux fuel tank, no fuel lines inside, a coupe of drinking water bottles are fine). Your surface rust wheel are fine. Or wire brush, rattle can, and work on the important stuff.

Be sure to add to your list before leaving home: current registration AND proof of insurance, and a valid driver's license. They won't let you race 130mph club without those.


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Nope. AFAIK, the 130 mph class is the only one that doesn't even need a roll cage. Pretty low safety standards compared to other classes. I could be wrong.
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Old 08-22-2012, 11:23 PM   #179 (permalink)
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FYI: for 130mph club, they DO let you remove stuff like outside side-view mirrors, radio antennas, wipers, front plate, etc
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Old 08-22-2012, 11:35 PM   #180 (permalink)
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Metromizer- Thanks for posting that info. Quite a big help, actually. Unfortunately( for me, anyway) the belly pan and chin spoiler are currently held on by sheet metal screws. Looks like I'm going to be figuring something out VERY soon.

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It is always very amusing how our imagination is put to the test when overcoming reality. Redyaris
Boat tail project
How to gently bump start during EOC
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