02-19-2015, 10:40 AM
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#121 (permalink)
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Administrator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf
Doax, can you make the wires like 3 feet if it's okay? I don't know if it's possible but it would be nice.
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I can do that, but it will be a pain to install. As it is with the shorter 12" leads, its kind of a pain to keep the wires from wrapping around the shifter shaft as you install it (screwing it on takes a lot of turns). With that long of leads, it'll be an even bigger pain. I would suggest using short leads, and putting some crimp on connectors on the ends so you can just plug it in once you screw it on. Thats what I'm doing with mine.
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02-19-2015, 10:54 AM
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#122 (permalink)
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Rat Racer
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Great. Now I need to find a clockspring for my shifter!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheepdog44
Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @∞MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%
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02-19-2015, 11:24 AM
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#123 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xist
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Fwiw, I think my switch, which you refer to above, is called a NC or normally closed switch, because it's normal position is to close the circuit and allow current, pushing the button "opens" or breaks the circuit. As for amps, there are none to consider, if I understand correctly, because I cut the ground wire only. A reason for that was concern that fraying of the insulator miht eventually allow current to make contact with the metal shifter.
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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02-19-2015, 12:36 PM
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#124 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
Join Date: Nov 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox
I can do that, but it will be a pain to install. As it is with the shorter 12" leads, its kind of a pain to keep the wires from wrapping around the shifter shaft as you install it (screwing it on takes a lot of turns). With that long of leads, it'll be an even bigger pain. I would suggest using short leads, and putting some crimp on connectors on the ends so you can just plug it in once you screw it on. Thats what I'm doing with mine.
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I never thought about that, yea I'll just use crimp connectors, thanks! Any idea when you'll be done making it?
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02-19-2015, 01:36 PM
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#125 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Balto,
I would advise using twist on caps the first time you put it together and giving it a test drive before you crimp it on. I had my regen button and the clutch switch swapped when I first put it together, and if I had installed them with crimps the first time it would have really sucked!
The first test drive was kinda funny, as soon as I hit the clutch switch to override the IMA (with an on/off button, not a momentary) I got an awesome amount of regen and immediate slowing action. Luckily I was smart enough to test it on back roads with no traffic.
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02-19-2015, 03:19 PM
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#126 (permalink)
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Administrator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic
Fwiw, I think my switch, which you refer to above, is called a NC or normally closed switch, because it's normal position is to close the circuit and allow current, pushing the button "opens" or breaks the circuit. As for amps, there are none to consider, if I understand correctly, because I cut the ground wire only. A reason for that was concern that fraying of the insulator miht eventually allow current to make contact with the metal shifter.
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Thanks for the info.
The switch in your application will need to handle the amperage that the coil of the injector relay is pulling. This is probably around 100-150mA.
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02-22-2015, 05:54 PM
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#127 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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wow, 13 pages about shifter knobs lol.
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02-22-2015, 06:48 PM
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#128 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Alabama
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Tip from me:
If you're printing with ABS which I assume you are.
You know how the surface finish shows the layers and sucks? Buy some acetone and a glass jar. Put some acetone in the jar, suspend your part in the jar. But the lid on. The acetone vapors will melt the outer layer of plastic. Take the part out. Let it sit for a day. Come back and you'll have parts that look like molded plastic bits. You'll have to play with time and distance from the acetone at the bottom of the jar but I find about 10 minutes to be good. Make sure to do this under a fume hood or outside. It takes practice to get this right.
The picture is the science vehicle that my team and I designed for an international collegiate design competition that we're going to this June. Aside from the fiberglass blades, every other piece is made with printed ABS. This science vehicle withstood 26 G's and a 2 gram black power deployment charge during a rocket flight.
Anyway, 3D printing is awesome! Aside from CNC and watercutting, it's probably my favorite manufacturing technique.
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Aerospace Controls Engineer.
Currently driving a mostly stock 2014 Mitsubishi Mirage DE hatchback.
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02-22-2015, 09:00 PM
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#129 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Location: South Carolina
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Quote:
wow, 13 pages about shifter knobs lol.
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Buy an Insight, you'll get it!
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02-23-2015, 10:39 AM
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#130 (permalink)
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Rat Racer
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Route 16
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It's not about shift knobs, it's about kill switches. And any other switch you'd care to imagine, right where you already have your hand.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheepdog44
Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @∞MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%
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