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Old 03-18-2011, 12:03 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4mula View Post
Yes, the gray box/relay is beside the fuse box. Not sure about how to use your cruise for that. I finished mine a couple days ago with a toggle switch, then tucked it under the dash somewhere convenient to me, but not so obvious to anyone trying to steal my car! So when it's parked I just leave it "off", and also use it as my kill switch when driving, just flip it off, wait a sec then back on.

This is my first attempt to atach pics, so here it goes. . .
Here is a pic of the relay with harness unplugged, then the harness with the ground wire removed, then you see my wires running from the harness and from the ground wire which lead to the toggle switch (last photo):
4mula, thanks much for the awesome photos and explanation.

I'd like to have two switches, a kill switch for driving, and an anti-theft toggle.

That's a really nice toggle you're using. Where might I find one like that?

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Old 03-18-2011, 12:28 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Glad it helped, but jedi_sol get's the credit for the explanation

2 switches just sounds like extra work to me but if you wanted to it would be simple, ex: if I were to add it to mine, I could just cut into ONE of the wires between my existing toggle and relay box, adding a toggle there would work. Just leave it on at all times for driving.

I got it at radio shack $2.99
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:04 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bestclimb View Post
find the fuel injector relay under the dash to the left. It is a gray box as shown in the image. unplug the connector and then pull out the white wire holder in the back of the connector. A small flat head screwdriver applied to the ends where the white tabs show will free it. There is a black wire in the corner this is the ground, pull it out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bestclimb View Post
The electrical connection is made to the car under the dash at the far left side of the car a small gray box labeled PGM FI.
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Originally Posted by 4mula View Post
Yes, the gray box/relay is beside the fuse box.
I'm sure having a hard time finding a gray box by the fuse box. Does the fuse box pull out? Maybe the 99 honda is different? There are a few plugs in the fuse box, and one outside of it but it's blue, and it's hard to read and get to the connections under there. Details and ideas are appreciated.
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Old 03-18-2011, 11:10 PM   #24 (permalink)
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VERY INTERESTING.....

in 96-2000 Civics, the pgm-fi is on the PASSENGER side.

Sorry for misleading you this whole time. I guess me and 4mula/bestclimb have older pre 96 civics.


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Old 03-18-2011, 11:38 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Jedi, thank you very much. You guys are awesome.

I'll see if I can find it tomorrow.
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Old 03-19-2011, 07:59 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I took off the glove compartment door, popped off the little side panel, and there's a gray box that looks like pgm-F1 and has the following information.

CME corporation
Relay Assy. Main
RZ - 0158
Mexico TEM 12v

Is this it? There's an orange colored plug in the bottom, that has 2 green, 2 yellow, 2 striped, and 1 black wire going into it. I popped off the plug but think that's not necessary to pull out the wire. Is there any way I can make sure this is the right wire, for example trying to start the car with it out?

Then I pull out the black wire (with pliers) and insert the wires for the k/switch, yes?

How can the k/switch be routed through the base of the shifter?

It looks like I could put a (2nd) safety switch right behind the top of the glove compartment door.
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:26 PM   #27 (permalink)
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One thing you can try. When my kill switch is ON, and i turn the key into the first position, I can hear my fuel pump priming up. If the kill switch is OFF, then I can't hear the fuel pump.

So you can try to disconnect the black wire, turn the key, if you don't hear the fuel pump, then that should be the correct wire.

Another thing you can try, is disconnect the black wire, when you turn the key into the first position, look at the yellow Check Engine Light in your gauge cluster. If the light turns on and stays on, then you've got the right cable. If it turns on, then turns of after a couple seconds, then its the wrong one.

The nice thing about bestclimb's particular write up, is that it doesn't involve any cutting of any OEM wires, so if you've got the wrong wire, just plug it back in.

In the mean time, im still trying to locate the schematics for the 1996-2000 civics somewhere online.
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:36 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlvs2run View Post
Then I pull out the black wire (with pliers) and insert the wires for the k/switch, yes?

How can the k/switch be routed through the base of the shifter?
YES.

To route the wire through the base of the shifter is going to require you to remove the that whole cover. (the one with the cup holders and the shifter. From what I can see from interior pics online, its only a matter of 2-3 screws on both sides of the cover) But i don't own the car, so its pure speculation.
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:07 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Some folks asked about side effects. I just had a coil and perhaps an ignition control module fail (I know coil was bad and replaced both). I do not know if it was from this mod or not. Only situation I can think of is that the coil being powered and not discharging caused it to burn out internally? This may not have been the reason for it as the car had an unknown amount over 250,000 miles on it when I acquired it. The cap and rotor were also corroded, which can cause an increase in resistance that can have a negative affect on the life of the coil.

I am well enough convinced that the mod is not the reason for the failed coil, enough that I have decided to keep my current instillation of the kill switch as described in the first post of this thread.

EDIT a little research shows that the coil and Ignition control module failure is fairly common for these cars due to inadequate cooling.
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Last edited by bestclimb; 12-04-2011 at 12:14 PM..
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Old 02-03-2015, 01:19 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Could anyone do me a favor and take an amperage reading on how much power is going through the NC kill switch? I'm trying to size a the switch for a custom shift knob, and I need to know how much power is going through it. Otherwise, a relay will be needed.

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