My 1991 Talon TSi Compound Turbo AWD

[pgfpro]

Well the temps outside just haven't been that warm so no turbo compound verses single turbo ABA results yet.

I built my new nitrous setup this Saturday and its a three stage system.

1st stage is a 75 shot dry direct port to ramp up boost at a stop to launch the car at the drags.

2nd stage is a upper rpm 30 shot dry that feeds into the turbo compressor.

3rd is for FE. Its a extremely small amount of nitrous that will be used to test in combination with lean burn. I did some testing on this a couple years ago. I found out that a small amount nitrous accelerates the flame speed so I can run less ignition timing while in lean burn. This should help to lower BSFC and increase FE.

I know this will not be cost effective because the cost of the nitrous, so its more for experimentation purposes.

[RobertISaar]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

I know this will not be cost effective because the cost of the nitrous, so its more for experimentation purposes.

if you didn't mention it, this was the first thing to come to mind. adding any kind of fuel to replace the main fuel should help with fuel economy, but the rather fast burn rate of n20 should be quite interesting to see what you come up with.

[LeanMeanDSM]

I am looking into trying some hho when in vacuum to speed up burn speed, and I did the cap/diode mod and converted my stock ignition to plasma to help as well, with the cap/diode mod I have to increase base timing buy 5 degrees.

My lean burn is not a hole in the map but a full time always on lean burn, from startup at 0 to 4500 rpm and all vacuum till about ten psi boost, i have to start the car in normal stock mode than once warmed up i can switch to leanburn, if i try to turn on leanburn before its warmed up it does not drive very nice and misfires.

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by LeanMeanDSM

I am looking into trying some hho when in vacuum to speed up burn speed, and I did the cap/diode mod and converted my stock ignition to plasma to help as well, with the cap/diode mod I have to increase base timing buy 5 degrees.

My lean burn is not a hole in the map but a full time always on lean burn, from startup at 0 to 4500 rpm and all vacuum till about ten psi boost, i have to start the car in normal stock mode than once warmed up i can switch to leanburn, if i try to turn on leanburn before its warmed up it does not drive very nice and misfires.

Thanks for your post very cool stuff
I might have to try a plasma system in the future?

On my lean burn fuel map its has a hole around freeway speed and light load up to 2psi its around 25:1. At 3psi medium load it runs around 18:1 for power to go over our local passes. At 5 to 10psi its runs at 16:1. Then any where above this it adds fuel up to 30psi. I'm at 10.8:1 at 30psi for max power.

The HHO is where I was going with my idea to test N2O If it works the way I think it is going to I will be looking into HHO on board production.

The waste solvent testing has shown some great results for increasing flame speed. The only problem is some discrepancy in waste solvent batches.

Now its time for another update.
I lost my in stock in-tank pump this weekend. My first thought was the solvent killed the plastic screen and or the plastic pump disk. After doing some postmortem examination of the pump the plastic parts were in perfect condition. What I found was a worn out commutator and brushes. So now I can put the race pump back in and not worry so much.

[LeanMeanDSM]

The leanest i can go while still being powerful enough to move the car without misfire is 20.5 afr with timing around 45 degrees advanced, that's using a home made plasma ignition and brisk multi gap resistor-less plugs. i looked into the cyclone intake manifold, and it shuts off one runner to a intake valve at low throttle to create a swirl in the head, i would like to try one, i might be able to run leaner still. also i would be interested in learning more about your prechamber plugs.

[LeanMeanDSM]

As boost goes up, i run leaner and leaner till about ten psi, it only makes a small amount of power but its is lean enough that it does not detonate, yet with the boost, can still get up to highway speed fairly quickly. i am basically on the edge of detonation at all times, also with 94 octane fuel, i cant even make boost with lean burn, the fuel wont even light off, right now im stuck on regular fuel, but i have meth injection so its not a big deal it can still be fast when i want it to.

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by LeanMeanDSM

The leanest i can go while still being powerful enough to move the car without misfire is 20.5 afr with timing around 45 degrees advanced, that's using a home made plasma ignition and brisk multi gap resistor-less plugs. i looked into the cyclone intake manifold, and it shuts off one runner to a intake valve at low throttle to create a swirl in the head, i would like to try one, i might be able to run leaner still. also i would be interested in learning more about your prechamber plugs.

Are you running meth injection all the time? I would think this would act kinda like a Mahle Jet system in conjunction with your plasma ignition. My thoughts are the H2O could help with the flame kernel?

I was also going to experiment with the cyclone manifold but got side tracked.

If your ever in the area I would love to show my prechamber design.

[pgfpro]

Thats weird on the 94 octane not lighting off? I have been running all kinds of fuel from VP C16, Renegade 110, to our pump 93 octane and they all seem the same.

I need to get my nitrous testing done. I have been so wrap up in waste solvent testing I haven't even been trying to get better fuel mileage. In fact my last logs have been pretty much around 20:1 A/F based.

This is my hot air injection/N2O direct port that now uses the PCV chamber for air or nitrous delivery.

Nitrous bottle and air pump.

[elhigh]

Originally Posted by LeanMeanDSM

and I did the cap/diode mod and converted my stock ignition to plasma to help as well, .

WHAT

The last time I heard about anyone experimenting with plasma ignition was in the early 80s, Smokey Yunick was being covered by Popular Science (they really had a love affair with that guy back then) and he had some crazy flamethrower spark plugs.

I am dying to know more.

[LeanMeanDSM]

The 94 lights off but will not not run as good as regular gas and when it gets really lean in boost, it gets to the point where it barely lights and the car falls flat on its face, where as if i have regular in, it continues to make probably around 130 hp at ten psi. with the 94 i can make it to only about 4-5 psi, before i hit the lean burn limit and probably top out at 80-90 hp. this is 100% tune related tho, i could change the tune and make it work but i want to keep it constant so i can note what different fuels do and with different conditions. once i have a good feel for it ill retune it for 94m octane and so that i can rev all the way to redline.

The meth injection only comes on with 15 psi boost and starts spraying at 20 psi, it has 2 m15 jets spraying up to 300 psi if i turn the controller all the way up. It sprays 100% meth, no water. I think if i add any water under lean burn it would cool the mix to much and would not light off, as well as slow the burn speed. Right now speeding up burn speed is the one thing i am trying to achieve. Faster burn speed means more of the power is used and not blown out the exhaust port and thus better economy. with this lean burn tune and regular gas i can only rev to 4500 before the speed of the flame is too slow and power starts dropping off. it seems to like to drive around 1500-3000 range best, and i noticed the ****tyer the gas i get the better it runs and more power it makes with leanburn. (the meth helps bring the regular gas back into 94 power territory so i don't blow it up with high boost.)

The plasma ignition, its not real plasma per say, its just a much much much more powerful spark and has a bigger corona to it, there are a few ways of increasing ignition energy. I have just the stock ignition basically looped into itself for more voltage, than a cap to release the spark energy quickly for the most powerful spark. there are 2 different ways of doing it, kinda hard to explain, but ill link some videos to explain it so you guys can understand better and replicate. Hopefully some guys with electronics experience can give there opinion and some suggestions to make it easier for others to convert to plasma in one easy step.

Ignition energy is the one of 2 limiting factors to lean burn and basically dictates how lean you can go while still making usable power or being efficient. with a big spark, you are much more likely to ignite some floating fuel in the spark path because the path is so much bigger, and if you have a really powerful spark the light and heat from the spark can also light off the mix. The other is fuel mixture and atomization, ideally i should have 2 fuel rails, one with very small injectors like 150cc and than one with bigger 1000cc+ injectors for big power, big injectors just spay a jet of fuel not a mist, i need a very very very fine mist, the finer the mist the faster the burn and with less leftover fuel being wasted out the exhaust that would normally be used to keep the catalytic converter glowing hot.