CRXFi Build Thread (Geo Metro XFi drivetrain in Honda CRX)

[MetroMPG]

Bummer - too bad he never finished the project.

[Christ]

Will, what's going on with this?

If you're not going to finish it up, or if you're not able, I'd love to have that chassis for a Volkswagen diesel swap.

Just sayin'.

[Wonderboy]

I actually JUST put it back on the road yesterday. I normally bike to work, but I drove 'er to work today for the hell of it and to break it in more (still on its first oil from the engine rebuild, and on its second gas fill). Whole driver's side situation is just peachy now - replaced all ball joints, upper control arm (comes attached to the ball joint I needed - I guess that ball joint is not removable from OEM control arm??) and new bearing. All peachy except one thing: It still didn't make that wobble go away. If that wheel is jacked up off the ground and I grab a hold of it, it has some play. I have no idea where it comes from. It has nothing to do with the axle, ball joints are all brand new and definitely not loosey goosey, and the lug nuts are on tight. It feels very much like it would if the lug nuts were loose enough to allow the brake disc to wiggle between the pads. When I was driving it around testing the feel of it, going about 50 down a hill, I'd take some righthand curves (putting weight to that side of the car) and hear an "I don't particularly like that" kind of slight friction noise as opposed to "my life or my car's life is in danger right now" noise. Aside from that, I'm starting to get confident enough to rely on the car for longer trips. For a practice run perhaps I'll go up and take that trip around seneca lake and see what I come up with. Haven't done ANY aero yet.

[Christ]

You've replaced the ball joint, upper and lower, the tire rod ends inner and outer, and the hub/bearing assembly, and it's still got play in it?

The options that are left are the strut assembly, and various bushings which could be excessively worn.

If I get a chance to make it to GGP, and you're there, maybe I can take a feel and see if I can identify it for you.

[Wonderboy]

I guess it's just a playful car

[texanidiot25]

Steering rack, and all related joints, like the rag joint/steering joint.

[Wonderboy]

Today I noticed that when I take hard turns, the injector loses gas or something because it sputters for a bit then recovers when I start going straight again. I wonder if this could be low fuel pressure? The fuel pump is the honda pump... I can't imagine the voltage or pressure being too terribly different... suzuki and honda both use denso components everywhere. Not sure specifically about the pump though. I wonder if anyone else has had this problem on corners...It also doesn't seem to wanna start when it's been sitting a while. Very stubborn starter. I've gotta coax it a little with the throttle. Keying on and off a couple times before cranking to make sure the fuel is being pushed up there has no effect.

I got gutsy enough to take 'er on the highway today. Definitely issues with front driver's side area. It makes a "thumpy" grumble. I know it can NOT be the bearing, so it's not that type of grumble. I def need to look again at the steering rack and the tie rods. It pulls to the right. Braking has no effect on the pull (I don't think the brakes are damaged or braking parasitically on that wheel). I don't remember it being this bad with different tires, so I think it's pretty safe to assume my new insight rim/tire is wayyy out of balance... but will that be the whole story? Tune in next time for the continuation of this gripping saga.

[Christ]

Check t that axle if theres thumping going on. Just changed both axles on my wifes saturn to fix some major thump/wobble.

Cutting out while cornering used to happen to my Topaz. It turned out to be a bad fuel sending unit/pump assembly. I've got another fuel pump you can have that worked fine when I pulled it, if you want. Suppose I can ship it if you want to cover that.

[DamageX]

Hi Will, how much fuel was in your tank at the time? In my 320i it is possible to starve the fuel pickup and stall the engine during a hard right-hand turn if the fuel level is down to 1/4 or less.

Cars with fuel injection circulate more fuel than the engine ever needs, and pressure at the injector(s) is controlled by a spring-loaded regulator.
(There are exceptions... like diesels, direct injection, etc.) So usually you can use any random fuel pump as long as it is meant for fuel injection. It`s either enough or it isn`t. Also, when the engine is off, the system should still hold pressure to prevent vapor lock and whatnot. Losing pressure could cause hard starts, and it could be a fault with the pump, injector(s), or regulator (or a leaky connection).

As you know, I`m not an expert on the Metro, but I`m pretty sure this info is relevant...

[Christ]

Does the metro have a r return line? If it does, church the fuel pressure regulator.