Econometer/Vacuum Gauge Installation Guide

[vtec-e]

Thanks. I hope so too. Another bonus is that the electricians in work think i'm trying to learn their dark art! And they think they look busy with a panel key and multimeter in the hand! LOL!!

ollie

[azlar]

Looks pretty cool! I agree with Hacksaw on your idle vacuum, what's it say under a heavy acceleration (for testing only, of course) and decel?

I'm not wild about tapping into the brake-booster line. If something shakes loose, you'll have to exercise those leg muscles on the stop-pedal. Find a gentle hill with no traffic. Turn off the engine and coast down in N. Pump the brakes a few times to get rid of the residual vacuum, then see how much effort it takes to stop. Brakes are hydraulic, so they don't go away when the engine quits, just get a little stiffer.

As long as you are comfortable with what it takes to avoid ending up in the backend of a lorry, you're golden.

[vtec-e]

Hi azlar. Under full throttle it goes to zero and under normal acceleration, it's around the 15 inch mark but varies quite a bit. I i looked at my options regarding where to connect to the manifold and i had a line going to the fuel recirculate valve back to the tank. I didn't want to connect to this as i might upset the vacumn response time to the fuel valve and maybe decrease mpg as a result. I may be wrong but that was my worry. Of course, meddling with the brakes has a potentially much worse end result. I'll get some fittings in work and see about tapping into the fuel recirculate valve. Gotta be safe eh?

ollie

[Johnny Mullet]

Tapping into the booster line will leak down your vacuum supply when you turn off the engine. I have mine tapped there right where the vacuum comes out of the engine, but I do not EOC and not worried about my connection.

Another place to splice into on a Metro is the line that goes to the MAP on the firewall. It has a "filter" on it. Does not interfere with the sensor either.

[hhometro]

Originally Posted by Hacksaw

On my 1995 Hatchback, the location you have circled houses my temperature gauge sending unit. There is a coolant passage behind your bolt/plug and should be sealed back up so it doesn't leak. I will try to take a picture or two of mine tomorrow, but I installed mine just inches away from that bolt, where the 3/8 line goes from the manifold to the hardline on the firewall leading to the brake booster. I know Johnny Mullet has questioned the safety factors and quality of vacuum from here, but mine works very well.

so did you just out the sending unit it and close it with the nut and tighten it

[jomelmaldonado]

Hello everyone, I am interested in purchasing a vacuum gauge, I already tried with a meter that I purchased a few years ago, the one used to diagnose valve problems, but when I connected it, the needle was pulsating to much when it was part throttle and I heard the pulsations in the car. Is this normal, or not. Should I purchase the liquid filled gauge, or not.

[mkiitmr2]

Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet

Here are what normal vacuum readings should be on a properly working gauge and a properly running engine.............

IDLE - 18-22
DECEL - 22-30
ECONOMY - 10-18
POWER - 0-10

The goal to saving fuel is to monitor it while at cruising speed. Keeping a constant reading like 10-12 will net the best results. While getting up to speed, but never accel hard so it drops below 5 because that is just a waste. Watching it at idle will tell you if the engine is running properly. The gauge should really not fluctuate at idle more than 2, but some gauges are not as accurate as others.

Do these numbers apply to a turbocharged car as well? I have a vacuum/boost gauge installed on my car. But I need help finding what you call the "sweet spot" for best economy. How can I find the most efficient vacuum range for my turbo car? What is the best vacuum reading to cruise at constant speed at? Thanks alot.

ERIK

[getnpsi]

As a simple answer, yes. However if you know your car very well and in a pretty low gear, youll notice less than half throttle can throw you out of vacuum and into boost...right past the 0 threshold. Extra careful modulation and practice will prevent this from happening until needed. That is why im a turbo lover. Power when I want.

[NoCO2]

So, ok, this looks interesting. Is this something that's pretty straight forward to install yourself though? I'm ok with automotive mechanics (I like my bicycle). But when it comes to installing new things, I'm hesitant. If I was to get a mechanic to do it, how much would they likely charge to install it? If it's super expensive, for less than $30 that I found one on JC Whitney, I'm willing to risk getting it to install myself, but, if it's cheap to install it professionally, I would be more at ease with myself

[Clev]

Originally Posted by NoCO2

So, ok, this looks interesting. Is this something that's pretty straight forward to install yourself though? I'm ok with automotive mechanics (I like my bicycle). But when it comes to installing new things, I'm hesitant. If I was to get a mechanic to do it, how much would they likely charge to install it? If it's super expensive, for less than $30 that I found one on JC Whitney, I'm willing to risk getting it to install myself, but, if it's cheap to install it professionally, I would be more at ease with myself

Very easy. The hardest part is finding the grommet to poke the line through the firewall. See my 10 minute install here:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tall-6303.html

BTW, mine came with clear hose. That hose has since collapsed. (It appears to be reading accurately, but it tends to "stick" for a couple of seconds sometimes.) If you have the same clear tubing, take it to the auto parts store and have them cut you some "real" vacuum hose of the same length and inner diameter. I think it's less than a buck a foot.