Friendly Wager: 60 mpg 95 Mercury Tracer

[M_a_t_t]

Going with a cluster from a water cooled bike would be better. I just happened to have the extra KZ1100 one.

Got a new best trip going home from work. 44.76 MPG. I am trying to make it to the top 10 in % over EPA category. Right after last fillup I was at #11, now I'm at #12. Tank is sitting at 41.35 MPG and 204 miles (~1/2 tank).

I did add a separation edge to the passenger side in an attempt to squeeze out a little extra MPG. Removed the pass mirror because I wasn't using it and added a lower grill block.

[TexasCotton]

The cross tube that supports the steering wheel column from within the dash. Did you remove this on this vehicle??. I notice various auto manufactures use the cross tube to support steer wheel column.

Would be curious if some different lighter material may be used. However getting the steering column support right and geometry right would be a concern. Thanks

[M_a_t_t]

Originally Posted by TexasCotton

The cross tube that supports the steering wheel column from within the dash. Did you remove this on this vehicle??. I notice various auto manufactures use the cross tube to support steer wheel column.

Would be curious if some different lighter material may be used. However getting the steering column support right and geometry right would be a concern. Thanks

I cut off the extra bracketry and put the main bar back in. It does support the steering column on this. I drilled some new holes in some tabs that were already on the column to re-mount the cluster since it originally used the dash cover/skin for it.

Maybe even getting rid of the bends in the bar could save a little bit of weight since it will use a little bit shorter piece to cross the span. The steering shaft has a u-joint in it so replicating the geometry of the original location shouldn't matter too much. I've been thinking about getting an aftermarket steering wheel so if I do that I can ditch both airbags and lose ~13-16lbs (just a guess)

[M_a_t_t]

Decided to get a little bit more done with the dash deletion sub-project. Stripped the climate control assembly down. I've been using the levers on the ducting to control the output so all I need is the blower motor switch. The assembly wasn't included in the "as removed" weight so this isn't going to contribute to my goal there.

Started at 1 lb 1.55 oz (1.097 lbs or 497.6 grams)


Removed the blower motor switch. I could probably save a few more grams by de-soldering the wires and socket for the bulb and the defrost switch. Ended up with 3.65 oz (.228 lbs or 103.5 g) for a savings of .87 lbs (394.6 g)

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by M_a_t_t

Maybe even getting rid of the bends in the bar could save a little bit of weight since it will use a little bit shorter piece to cross the span.

IIRC this often happens in those JDM second-hand cars exported to Paraguay while they're converted from RHD to LHD.

I've been thinking about getting an aftermarket steering wheel so if I do that I can ditch both airbags and lose ~13-16lbs (just a guess)

Are you also counting the removal of the sensors that trigger the airbag?

[M_a_t_t]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

Are you also counting the removal of the sensors that trigger the airbag?

I didn't think about the sensors or the control box. Maybe total it could be up to 20 lbs. Wiring, sensors, control box, and the air bags.

[M_a_t_t]

I've been mostly working on my 95 Astro lately so I can use it as a reliable backup. I'm hoping to get my drivetrain swap in the Mercury done before next winter. While it is warm I can ride my motorcycle and use the van if needed (heavy rain, etc) so I will be safe to take the car down for awhile. My plan is in 3/4 steps.
1. Fix the bad rust, just what is necessary to keep it on the road
2. Drive train swap
3. Fix the small rust
4. Work on aero. Both making more permanent setups for current mods and experimenting with new mods.

I've gotten a lot done with the van that has been on the list for awhile now, but I will save that for its build thread. I still want to get that MPG up, but since it's just a toy/hauling vehicle I won't be too serious about it.

Recently though I've done a few things. I re-did the separation edges on the tail lights and bumper as well as add a rear diffuser. I haven't done anymore testing on it yet and I know you usually want to start at the front, but it was much easier to just add a rear one while I was messing with the separation edges. What you don't see in the last picture is some self tappers going into the spare wheel well. I ended up replacing those with a piece of flat stock with 2 bolts welded to it and bolted through the drain plugs in the well. I did put the wheel skirts back on, just don't have a current picture right now.







I just finished a little bit of weight reduction tonight. I added a vacuum gauge (had lying around). I was able to use a hose from the cruise control for it so I didn't have to buy anything. Then I removed the cruise control stuff from the car. Saved 1.35 kg (~3 lbs) not including the addition of the vacuum gauge itself.





Edit:
I did add some tools to keep in the car. I found a partially crushed toolbox (small tacklebox sized one) in the trash at work so I hammered it back into shape and welded a corner where it split open and added a small bottle jack and some simple tools. So the weight savings is pretty much counter-acted now.

Here are some as it sits pictures. Have been consistently getting pretty decent MPG lately.

[M_a_t_t]

I haven't been driving the car, been taking the motorcycle (haven't filled up since June 30th ). Took it out last night though and forgot what driving without power steering is like. I also had a random misfire every once in awhile. So I 'serviced' the plugs and wires. Pulled them, cleaned off (after comparing to one of those plug color charts), re-gapped them, re-installed, and ohmed out the wires. All was good. One of the plugs was barely tight at all and another was definitely looser than it should be. These are the same autolite's I installed in post #15. I've got ~10k miles on these copper plugs and they look fine. Haven't driven the car yet though, but hopefully those loose plugs were the problem.


Can you technically 'service' plugs, or is it just a matter of terminology? Should you gap to the plug manufacturers or to the car's spec? I put them to Ford's spec. I think I set them at Autolite's initially.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by M_a_t_t

Should you gap to the plug manufacturers or to the car's spec?

Ain't the automaker supposed to keep the gap within a tolerance specified by the plug manufacturer

[M_a_t_t]

I should have looked before I asked, I didn't look at autolite's specified gap. It's 1.37mm, Ford's is 1.3-1.4 so you are probably correct. Autolite doesn't specify a range (that I found), just a correct gap.