Honda Insight w/Acura TSX engine - Ecomodding

[mpg_numbers_guy]

Ah, makes sense. I thought that the inputted SOC would show up on the battery gauge.

"I'm going to start cutting climate control wires" --isn't there a diagram for it so you can know for sure? Or maybe put in a different resistor into the outside temperature sensor to always read below freezing?

I'm half tempted to think mine is malfunctioning - in a good way lol. Lean burn doesn't go away until mid-upper 20s F.

[Ecky]

Originally Posted by mpg_numbers_guy

"I'm going to start cutting climate control wires" --isn't there a diagram for it so you can know for sure? Or maybe put in a different resistor into the outside temperature sensor to always read below freezing?

I have the diagrams, and there are several very promising candidates but they have arcane names like HTRS, FANC, RLYCTRL, ENGRDY, AC ON and SG2. I did some testing a few years back and found that if I unplugged the wires from the climate control module, I didn't get auto-stop anymore. This suggests to me that there's a signal it sends to the ECU that says basically "ready for auto-stop", and if I cut that one I won't get any more auto-stop under any circumstances. My bet is on it being "ENGRDY".

A resistor would definitely work and would be the easiest way. When I set the CC to, let's say, 72 degrees, it won't actually be 72 anymore and will vary relative to the actual outside temperature, but that's not so bad. Maybe I'll just do that.

Originally Posted by mpg_numbers_guy

I'm half tempted to think mine is malfunctioning - in a good way lol. Lean burn doesn't go away until mid-upper 20s F.

I get lean burn when it's subzero outside.

The only factor that absolutely stops it seems to be that the engine is warmed up.

[mpg_numbers_guy]

Originally Posted by Ecky

I get lean burn when it's subzero outside.

The only factor that absolutely stops it seems to be that the engine is warmed up.

Haven't you added the resistor though to get lean burn at any outside temperature?

I thought I got lean burn any time, because I've had it when temps were in the teens (lowest it got in Michigan while I was there), but I had two episodes of 2-3 minutes where I couldn't get lean burn on my drive down to college last night and the temp was 31 both times. I haven't added a resistor yet.

[Ecky]

Originally Posted by mpg_numbers_guy

Haven't you added the resistor though to get lean burn at any outside temperature?

I thought I got lean burn any time, because I've had it when temps were in the teens (lowest it got in Michigan while I was there), but I had two episodes of 2-3 minutes where I couldn't get lean burn on my drive down to college last night and the temp was 31 both times. I haven't added a resistor yet.

Right now I just have the stock temperature sensor in place. I saw no need to fool it; in the past I had a resistor in place to get auto-stop at lower temperatures, but I'm actually looking to avoid that right now.

I can't think of what might be preventing your car, if it behaves the same as mine. I'm thinking it's very likely ECU programming.

[samwichse]

Originally Posted by Ecky

I have the diagrams, and there are several very promising candidates but they have arcane names like HTRS, FANC, RLYCTRL, ENGRDY, AC ON and SG2. I did some testing a few years back and found that if I unplugged the wires from the climate control module, I didn't get auto-stop anymore. This suggests to me that there's a signal it sends to the ECU that says basically "ready for auto-stop", and if I cut that one I won't get any more auto-stop under any circumstances. My bet is on it being "ENGRDY".

I get lean burn when it's subzero outside.

The only factor that absolutely stops it seems to be that the engine is warmed up.

My guess would be whatever wire gets a different signal when you push the "AUTO" button vs "ECON" would be the fastest way to test this.

[Ecky]

Hasport's Insight gets its new engine:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kPoTOhGNzs

Expecting the mounts to hit the store in 2-3 weeks. Need to rethink my shift box, didn't know the RSX cables won't attach to the TSX transmission, and the TSX cables won't attach to the Insight shift box.

[Ecky]

Hasport's mounts are done, decided to wait on them to release a set of axles as well, should only be a few days.

Added one more item to my engine "wish list":

The K24A2 has balance shafts used to reduce higher order harmonics. These are part of the oil pump, which weighs in total around 10lbs (?) more, give or take a couple of pounds and spins at twice engine speed. When turning the pump by hand there's significantly more resistance in a K24A2 pump than a K20A2 pump.

For people looking to rev the snot out of their longer-stroked 2.4L engines, it's common to swap in the smaller and higher revving engine's oil pump, which has no balance shafts and is geared to spin a hair slower. I don't care about revving any higher, but I'll take the lower parasitic losses and reduced rotating mass in exchange for a rougher idle. I figure it's a good idea to put a new oil pump in anyway.

One example of a kit:

https://www.hptautosport.com/product...iant=458853537

My research suggests removing the balance shafts from the oil pan will increase oil capacity from around 4.6 quarts to 6.8 quarts. I can't say I'm keen on having that much more oil to warm up, but at least it isn't spinning, and there are no reported longevity or reliability issues.

In total I'll probably have removed close to 25lbs of rotating mass from the engine.

[tervic]

Why not continue running 4.6 qts (or whatever stock capacity is)? Should still be plenty of oil for lubrication and assuming you're not uncovering the oil pickup, keeping the oil further from the spinning components should reduce windage friction losses.

[Ecky]

Originally Posted by tervic

Why not continue running 4.6 qts (or whatever stock capacity is)? Should still be plenty of oil for lubrication and assuming you're not uncovering the oil pickup, keeping the oil further from the spinning components should reduce windage friction losses.

It might be fine to do just that. I'll take a look when the pan is off.

The oil feed for the pump is at the lowest part of the pan, so it shouldn't be affected. However, the counterweights are also extremely low in the pan, meaning removing them will cause oil levels to drop. Anything which relies on lubrication from oil in the sump will no longer have oil.

It probably goes without saying but I also wouldn't be able to read the oil levels with the factory dipstick, or possibly any dipstick.

[Ecky]

Just got off the phone with Hasport, mount set number one is mine. They'll ship it out with the axles likely early next week, mounts are cooling from powder coating right now.