Urba Centurion #4

[changzuki]

Originally Posted by elhigh

Just make sure the AC unit isn't demanding too clean a wave of power. Cheap inverters make do with a so-called "modified sine" output wave, which is to say it sort-of approximates clean alternating current with stepped voltages. The earliest inverters provided square wave output, which could be hell on electronics like TVs and stereos, though motors didn't mind it much.

The quality of the power shouldn't affect your AC unit too badly but it may play up your control electronics. If your AC unit is using mechanical controls, all is well. Otherwise you may need to consider other options.

That Cool Blue thing, with the inverter the manufacturer recommended, may be a better bet since they seem to have already determined the inverter choice is a good one.

Ditto!
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I have many inverters here at 9 Main and if was to pick one that would do a good job running something small like the air conditioner mentioned, and have it survive over time, said inverter would add more weight to the car than the air conditioner would.
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Either the pure sinewave or the modified sinewave inverters here are quite stout, mainly from the amount of copper that's inside. As a result, they tend to handle the surges mentioned quite well and the cooling fans seldom ever run.
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Aside from making motors hum and some variable speed stuff not varying, the modified varieties make my electronics run hotter and this is measurable with an infared heat gun or by hand. A couple of the more sensitive things here will outright generate an error and are inoperable on modified sinewave.
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Should the Aims inverter be used, I'll definitely watch the thread out of pure interest to see how well it holds up over the long haul. Technology evolves every day so it very well may be up to the task!
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~CrazyJerry

[GreenHornet]

Originally Posted by elhigh

Just make sure the AC unit isn't demanding too clean a wave of power. Cheap inverters make do with a so-called "modified sine" output wave, which is to say it sort-of approximates clean alternating current with stepped voltages. The earliest inverters provided square wave output, which could be hell on electronics like TVs and stereos, though motors didn't mind it much.

The quality of the power shouldn't affect your AC unit too badly but it may play up your control electronics. If your AC unit is using mechanical controls, all is well. Otherwise you may need to consider other options.

That Cool Blue thing, with the inverter the manufacturer recommended, may be a better bet since they seem to have already determined the inverter choice is a good one.

The issue aside from the high cost of the cool blue inverter is that it is designed for electric vehicles with 120-144 VDC battery packs. The unit does run a modified sine wave and runs at 2000 watts continuous and has a 4000watts surge. The unit weighs around 3lbs so pretty light weight and it is also very compact. My goal will be to find something with similar specs that will work with my 12VDC system.

The Aims unit weighs in around 8lbs and can handle 3500 watts surge so not to bad for the cost. I just want to try to find something that weighs less but has a comparable surge output

[GreenHornet]

Getting away from the AC project I have been busy working on taking out the flip up headlights along with all its components. With both lights out along with the pulley, metal brackets, hinges, and Headlight electric motor I was able to remove 40lbs of weight.

My plan is to eliminate the flip up lights and replace it with LED fixed lighting. My main reasons for this are:

1. More complex have more parts to fail
2. More parts = more weight
3. Eliminating the flip ups creates usable space for other components
4. Less efficient uses more energy to operate
5. Less aerodynamic when operating at night

I will not be putting the lights in the current housing location. The housing areas will be glassed over and lighting relocated to the front wear a modified front bumper and grill will house them.

The LED lights will be simple 30W units that emit around 2,500 lumens. I will be using a dial dimmer to control the light output of the units.

[GreenHornet]

Moving along the modification trail I have decided to create a tilting one piece bonnet (Hood+Fenders+Bumper+Grill+lights). I really like the engine bay access of a tilting forward one piece bonnet. The modification is actually made really simple with stock Triumph Spitfire donor parts. These parts are all fully compatible with the Centurion as this is the donor platform that the Centurion utilizes.

This modification will make it much easier to perform general maintenance. In the event of a frontal collision or accident it will also make it easier to repair and or replace. So in addition to glassing in the original headlight areas I will also be glassing in the original engine bay opening. Instead of using the tin to close up the engine bay I will use foam which gives us better insulative properties.

The front bumper will not stick out as much in my modified Bonnet. Instead now that I have taken out the flip up headlights I have room to add foam internally. Utilizing foam internally allows me the freedom to give the front a more modern car look that eliminates the gaps in the front. This is what they did with the rear bumper in the Centurion. In fact you can not tell there is a rear bumper at all. I will take the same strategy up front and create an area for the front license plate as well as minimize the engine bay air inlet for better aero.

This will be the first major body modification to Centurion #4 as I am starting with the front and working my way to the back. Once I finish pulling all the wires in the engine bay the bonnet work begins

[GreenHornet]

These body modifications along with the all ready planned Gullwing doors will give Centurion #4 a pretty cool retro look and feel. The mods will also make my Centurion more functional and enhance its performance properties.

So stay tuned for the volley of pics that will be coming your way very soon

GH..

[GreenHornet]

Still moving along with the mods lol

The two cylinder Kubota is significantly smaller than the three cylinder which the Centurion plans were designed for. This creates some issues as it pertains to the mounting of the engine to the transmission. The 3 cylinder adapter plate that I purchased with the car is also not compatible as it is far to big in diameter for the little two cylinder. So I am going to have to come up with a custom bellhousing in order for this to work. When I purchased the two cylinder engine it came with a nice Hayes generator drive unit which was utilized as an APU. This Hayes part gives me the bolt pattern for the 2 cylinder engine to exact specs. Having this piece gives me the other piece of the equation as I all ready had the Spitfire bellhousing.

So the plan will be to build a custom bellhousing out of aluminum alloy that is far lighter than the original Spitfire bellhousing. This setup will be nice in that it will be all one unit rather than having two separate parts with the 3 cylinder Centurion car. This will simplify the car, minimize part count and cut weight.

Here are a few pics of the Hayes Gen Drive and the 3 cyl adapter plate showing weights of each to give everyone an idea of what these things weigh. The general diameter of the adapter plate is 14" and the Hayes drive is 11" if anyone was curious.

Here is a link to the Hayes website regarding the Generator Drives = http://www.hayescouplings.com/index....nerator_drives

GH

[deejaaa]

Full Custom Garage did a tilt frontend on a car. not sure if this is it because I can't access it on this computer.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...96339352,d.cWc
the one I liked had a channel on the frame/frontend. frontend slid in/out of it allowing the tilt. hard to explain but was a good idea as long as the anchors stayed put.
cool ideas:
http://yooying.com/tommy_vango

[changzuki]

Originally Posted by GreenHornet

Getting away from the AC project I have been busy working on taking out the flip up headlights along with all its components. With both lights out along with the pulley, metal brackets, hinges, and Headlight electric motor I was able to remove 40lbs of weight.

My plan is to eliminate the flip up lights and replace it with LED fixed lighting. My main reasons for this is are:

1. More complex have more parts to fail
2. More parts = more weight
3. Eliminating the flip ups creates usable space for other components
4. Less efficient uses more energy to operate
5. Less aerodynamic when operating at night

I will not be putting the lights in the current housing location. The housing areas will be glassed over and lighting relocated to the front wear a modified front bumper and grill will house them.

The LED lights will be simple 30W units that emit around 2,500 lumens. I will be using a dial dimmer to control the light output of the units.

Go Geen Hornet Go! Lol!! I am of course loving every minute of this mainly because I know what fun it is - and what can be had at the end of the rainbow!
Yes, the front flip-ups and associated pieces are a bit lofty. I think maybe yours ran into a similar issue with the electric motor trying to lift the lights and hence the pulley you mentioned.
Looking forward to more adventures as you go!!
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~CrazyJerry

[GreenHornet]

Hey CJ,

Yeah I just didn't really have to much confidence in the flip up light system the Centurion had going. I figured that since I am making things more complicated all ready with all my modifications it would be nice to make at least one thing simpler LOL

Along with that as you know first hand that real estate under the hood is at a premium with these cars. I needed to create space right where the pulley, headlight motor and the hood latch was placed. The reason being is that I will be creating a smaller opening up front and boxing it in with a fanned out approach which will be housing the mini radiator. I will also be filling in a few inches of foam internally for better engine compartment insulation and to maintain the safety factor up front since I will be reshaping the front bumper and grille area which will see some foam reduction. So basically I am relocating the foam I will take from the front bumper to inside the engine bay.

So ultimately I did it because I needed the space but as a result I got the benefit of less complexity, lighter weight, more efficiency, more reliability, and better aerodynamics.

Not to shabby for a single modification

[changzuki]

GreenHornet,
When you move - you move!! I love the enthusiasm - this is going to be a great thread for many-a-posts.
When you're exploring the area in front of the flipups, can you see how the framehorns attach to the body? I'm curious on both the front and the far rear how it was done on your car.
Here on this one, the front has a square steel pad welded on to each frame horn then drilled so that lag screws can be used to bite into the front bumper bulkhead.
The rear on this one is the same as far as the drilled steel square pads are concerned.
~CrazyJerry