Kill switch electrical questions

[sarguy01]

Originally Posted by darcane

Yes, that's fine and no it won't cause any problems. I do it all the time.

Note, you may need to hold the switch down (takes about 1-3 seconds for my car, depending on RPM) before the engine stops completely. If you stop interrupting the circuit before then, it will fire back up.

So far the only "trouble" I've had with my switch is that I tried to bump start it once and forgot to flip the switch back. It threw a code for a faulty crank sensor since the kill switch also kills that circuit. I forgot several times, only got the code once. I cleared the code and it's been fine ever since.

Forgetting to flip the switch back is exactly why I want to use a momentary switch...

[sarguy01]

I was taking a look at my wiring diagram and comparing it to the pics in this thread.

I want to put a relay on the yel/blk wire on the connector in the red box, correct??



For reference, the connector C145 is the connector with the yel/blk wire??



I need to make sure I cut the correct wire...hence me double checking the wiring diagram...

[jedi_sol]

You can test it out to see if it is the correct wire before you actually cut it.

To do this, simply unpin the yellow black wire, then try to start the car.



If the car starts, then it's the wrong wire. If the car does not start, then you've got the correct wire.

If c145 does not work, I think another alternative would to find the ground wire that controls your pgmfi. If that doesn't work, then find the ground wire that controls the fuel injectors or crankshaft position sensor.

[darcane]

Originally Posted by jedi_sol

You can test it out to see if it is the correct wire before you actually cut it.

To do this, simply unpin the yellow black wire, then try to start the car.



If the car starts, then it's the wrong wire. If the car does not start, then you've got the correct wire.

If c145 does not work, I think another alternative would to find the ground wire that controls your pgmfi. If that doesn't work, then find the ground wire that controls the fuel injectors or crankshaft position sensor.

It won't start... but it's still the wrong wire.

This IS the wire that controls the fuel injectors....
AND the crank position sensor(CKP),
AND the cam position sensor(TDC),
AND the IAC,
AND some for the ECM,
and maybe the immobilizer too....

CKP, TDC, and IAC are fine. The ECM and the immobilizer are not. You will have to key off/key on to turn it on again.

Your diagram is a little different than my '01. I don't see where your immobilizer wire is and you DO NOT want to interrupt that (on my '01 it branches off from what would be your wire connecting C202 and PGM-FI 2). You also don't want to interrupt IGP1 or IGP2 which you would be doing with your proposed solution.

The wire you are probably looking for is the yel/blk from C128 to [A]. Check your diagram to see where that wire goes. If it goes to another connector on your engine that controls JUST injectors, IAC, TDC, CKP then you have the right one.

[sarguy01]

Originally Posted by darcane

It won't start... but it's still the wrong wire.

This IS the ground wire that controls the fuel injectors....
AND the crank position sensor(CKP),
AND the cam position sensor(TDC),
AND the IAC,
AND some grounds for the ECM,
and maybe the immobilizer too....

CKP, TDC, and IAC are fine. The ECM and the immobilizer are not. You will have to key off/key on to turn it on again.

Your diagram is a little different than my '01. I don't see where your immobilizer ground is and you DO NOT want to interrupt that (on my '01 it branches off from what would be your wire connecting C202 and PGM-FI 2). You also don't want to interrupt IGP1 or IGP2 which you would be doing with your proposed solution.

The wire you are probably looking for is the yel/blk from C128 to [A]. Check your diagram to see where that wire goes. If it goes to another connector on your engine that controls JUST injectors, IAC, TDC, CKP then you have the right one.

C128 is on the valve cover.

The only 20 pin connector under the glove box is C145. I posted screen shots from service manual that is actually a 2001, not an 2005. Your manual was not the factory manual, was it?? My setup is probably very close, if not the same, as yours. That yel/blk wire does provide 5 volts to the injectors and the sensors you listed. I will throw up that part of the diagram later tonight.

I think the wire you put a relay on the is one I boxed with red...I studied the pic you posted and the yel/blk wire you cut was the one marked with tape, correct?? It matches the C145 connector.

[darcane]

Originally Posted by sarguy01

C128 is on the valve cover.

The only 20 pin connector under the glove box is C145. I posted screen shots from service manual that is actually a 2001, not an 2005. Your manual was not the factory manual, was it?? My setup is probably very close, if not the same, as yours. That yel/blk wire does provide 5 volts to the injectors and the sensors you listed. I will throw up that part of the diagram later tonight.

I think the wire you put a relay on the is one I boxed with red...I studied the pic you posted and the yel/blk wire you cut was the one marked with tape, correct?? It matches the C145 connector.

I have a FSM for 2001-2005 Civics. I was referencing the wiring diagram from Honda that I linked in an earlier post that is specifically 2001-2003. Both of these agreed with each other... but Honda conveniently splits the info up into 100 different diagrams and tables making it quite cumbersome to track down wires. For example, your scan leaves out the immobilizer where as what I was referencing has no mention of the C145 connector.

It's entirely possible you are correct, and I cut the yel/blk wire earlier than I previously thought which would explain my trouble with finding the IGP wires. In which case, those are not as critical as I first thought.

However, it is still critical you don't interrupt the immobilizer since that will require you to key off/key on.

[sarguy01]

Here are the three full pages that pertains to the injectors, sensors and immobilizer. But, as you know, the wiring diagram isn't the easiest thing to follow when actually tracing wires.

I am going to try and get a pic of that one connector tonight and put it on here. I will mark the wire I think you cut to verify before I cut it. Besides, I can't install the relay and kill switch until they come in the mail in the next few days. I got a good deal on amazon...

[darcane]

Originally Posted by sarguy01

Here are the three full pages that pertains to the injectors, sensors and immobilizer. But, as you know, the wiring diagram isn't the easiest thing to follow when actually tracing wires.

I am going to try and get a pic of that one connector tonight and put it on here. I will mark the wire I think you cut to verify before I cut it. Besides, I can't install the relay and kill switch until they come in the mail in the next few days. I got a good deal on amazon...

This shows another reason for my confusion in reading their diagrams.

The first wiring diagram you have up there shows the connections at C128 but leaves out the two IGP wires and has one wire going to [A]..

Then in the second diagram the wire from [A] goes to C128 and splits off to IGP1 and IGP2 as well as the C145 connector.

So, does the [A] wire loop back to the same connector and one yel/blk wire goes to the engine to split off into two wires that come right back to the ECM? Or are there two C128 connectors, one on the engine and one behind the glove box?

What I do know for sure, is which wire I found (whatever Honda called it) and it works.

[sarguy01]

Darcane, I agree that the manual is pretty confusing. Where are all those splices are at is beyond me...

So, here is the 20 pin connector. I have the yel/blk wire separated with the screwdriver. Is this the wire you cut and put the relay on???

[darcane]

Originally Posted by sarguy01

Darcane, I agree that the manual is pretty confusing. Where are all those splices are at is beyond me...

So, here is the 20 pin connector. I have the yel/blk wire separated with the screwdriver. Is this the wire you cut and put the relay on???

Yep, that is the one you want.

I actually snipped it on the other side of that connector. In hindsight, that may not have been the best choice, since you have to disconnect that connection and pull that harness through the firewall to remove the engine. It would have been easier if I snipped it right about where you have your screwdriver.