MG Midget + Geo Metro 3cyl = MGeo

[dwtaylorpdx]

You might consider a locking differential/torque sensing differential to help balance the braking force.

The reason most cars did not use this type of brake is that the drive line turns 3x(Depending on the differential ratio) the speed of the wheel so stopping from 30 is the equivalent of stopping from 90. Generates significant heat. Use a Carbotec or similar pad from a race car and you should do better, also a duct to provide air to the rear brake is likely a must have. You'll also be getting major heat pumped into the pinion bearing from the rotor. A finned rear diff cover, with the duct blowing air across it will help. There is paint you can buy that changes color at certain temperatures, Might be a good tool for checking the function of the brake and caliper in use without a lot of high tech instrumentation.

I'd put the electric motor between the trans and drive line, Replace the tail shaft housing with the motor.. Only because its way too easy to get harmonics on the crank when you hang stuff off it. It also lowers the effective rotational leverage of the unit on the engine under acceleration, race shop I work at we put alternators on the drive line on some cars for that reason. Raises straight line speed significantly ,, more speed less load...

Dave

[nimblemotors]

The brake pressure sent to the rear is adjustable, will just have to see if it can be turned down enough to compensate. But note the car will be 30% lighter than original, thus it needs 30% less braking power.

This is an MG Midget, see the pictures showing the engine and transmission, if the driver was an amputee it might work to put a motor behind the engine. If it was on the driveshaft, it couldn't start the engine which is a key part of the design.
I agree the direct crankshaft connection might need a soft coupler of some type, will make it more complex if needed.

I still haven't figured what to do about the water pump. I want to make it electric, I could just add a motor to the existing pump, but been thinking to remove it completely and use an external pump. The plumbing can then exit forward instead of u-turn to the rear through the water pump and another u-turn back to the front. There does not seem to be a lot of good choices for an external pump that can handle the hot water and the pressure.

Originally Posted by dwtaylorpdx

You might consider a locking differential/torque sensing differential to help balance the braking force.

The reason most cars did not use this type of brake is that the drive line turns 3x(Depending on the differential ratio) the speed of the wheel so stopping from 30 is the equivalent of stopping from 90. Generates significant heat. Use a Carbotec or similar pad from a race car and you should do better, also a duct to provide air to the rear brake is likely a must have. You'll also be getting major heat pumped into the pinion bearing from the rotor. A finned rear diff cover, with the duct blowing air across it will help. There is paint you can buy that changes color at certain temperatures, Might be a good tool for checking the function of the brake and caliper in use without a lot of high tech instrumentation.

I'd put the electric motor between the trans and drive line, Replace the tail shaft housing with the motor.. Only because its way too easy to get harmonics on the crank when you hang stuff off it. It also lowers the effective rotational leverage of the unit on the engine under acceleration, race shop I work at we put alternators on the drive line on some cars for that reason. Raises straight line speed significantly ,, more speed less load...

Dave

[Clev]

Is that an Etek? If so, don't they redline at something like 4,400 RPM? I've always wanted to put one in like you did, but I figured I'd have to belt it in with a gear reduction to avoid having it come apart in aggressive driving.

[nimblemotors]

It is the BLDC (AC not DC) version of the Etek, a Mars Electric motor made in China. They are good to 5,000 rpm from what I understand, I'm sure it won't fall apart at 6,000, the G10 isn't going any higher than that.

Originally Posted by Clev

Is that an Etek? If so, don't they redline at something like 4,400 RPM? I've always wanted to put one in like you did, but I figured I'd have to belt it in with a gear reduction to avoid having it come apart in aggressive driving.

[Christ]

You could still start the gas engine using the electric motor no matter whee it is in relation to the test of the parts. If it's behind the clutch, you just start the engine by moving the vehicle. Not entirely bad, anyway, as the setup would then alleviate any need for the gas engine to idle. Of course, you could still have this feature as is, simply by not pushing the clutch when you activate the motor.

[bondvagabond]

pre-1986 samurais "xx-410" instead of "xx-413" model numbers may have had a hydraulic clutch system, my memory isn't a 100% though. It might get you your clutch pedal system without having to whittle it out from scratch (not that you wouldn't be able too :-)

Very cool project by the way.

[MetroMPG]

Hi Jack -

Any news on the project? It's been a while...

Darin

[nimblemotors]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Hi Jack -

Any news on the project? It's been a while...

Darin

Thanks for your interest in my project.
It has been sidelined while I've done other things.
In fact I am considering selling it as-is so I can focus on my other projects.
If someone might be interested in taking it over, please let me know.

[MetroMPG]

Bummer! Sorry to hear that.

[nimblemotors]

Well, no one else is going to finish this project, so it's up to me to finish it.

I built the transmission tunnel. The area around the driver feet and along the floor is made with 1/8 steel, the rest made out of fiberglass.
I used foam poster board from the dollar store to build it. I removed the paper, so it was just the foam, and then used aluminum duct tape to tie it together, then with spray adhesive, covered it with aluminum foil. So the polyester resin doesn't melt the foam.
Then laid up the fiberglass, 3 layers. Once dried, I use carb cleaner to melt the foam and removed the tape. It is nice to have the foil still there, but is isn't stuck on too well. I then painted the engine compartment and the interior in silver (the color the car will be). Now I can put all the front suspension and steering back in. I need to make up the SS brake lines next
and install the master cylinders and the pedal assembly.