My 1991 Talon TSi Compound Turbo AWD

[sqidd]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

New Flow Chart with added muffler exhaust valve and heat intake valve.

Thank goodness for that^^^^^!!!!

What are you using for a A2W IC? What about a heat exchanger? Water pump?

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by sqidd

Thank goodness for that^^^^^!!!!

What are you using for a A2W IC? What about a heat exchanger? Water pump?

Still undecided at this time but I'm looking at a "Shaman Equipment" kit.
Water to Air Intercooler

What do you think? Keep in mind the only time I will be taking advantage of the water to air cooler is when I drag race it and I'm also planing on doing a local hill climb.

[sqidd]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

Still undecided at this time but I'm looking at a "Shaman Equipment" kit.
Water to Air Intercooler

What do you think? Keep in mind the only time I will be taking advantage of the water to air cooler is when I drag race it and I'm also planing on doing a local hill climb.

IDK what is up with that goofy pump in that kit. Never heard of it, and I do a LOT of R&D/testing on A2W IC pumps. Chances are if it was any good I would know all about it.

What size are the AN fittings on that core? That is CRITICAL! That will make or break a A2W system. I'm not kidding hear, that is very, very important. I wouldn't go with anything under a -16. -20 would be ideal.

If you are only going to use it at the drags or hillclimbs don't mess with a heat exchanger. You will have to run a LOT more exchanger than that to get the performance you want. Plus you are going to have to mount and plumb that sucker somewhere that gets a lot of airflow. For what you are doing I would run a ice chest. It will work about elenvindy billion times better and end up costing you less money in the end because when you are running an ice chest you can employ one of the lower cost bilge pumps. And you can mount the ice chest in the back of the car out of sight and where you have more room. And if you need to you can always run it with just water in it. If the ice chest is aluminum it will shed quite a bit of heat.

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by sqidd

IDK what is up with that goofy pump in that kit. Never heard of it, and I do a LOT of R&D/testing on A2W IC pumps. Chances are if it was any good I would know all about it.

What size are the AN fittings on that core? That is CRITICAL! That will make or break a A2W system. I'm not kidding hear, that is very, very important. I wouldn't go with anything under a -16. -20 would be ideal.

If you are only going to use it at the drags or hillclimbs don't mess with a heat exchanger. You will have to run a LOT more exchanger than that to get the performance you want. Plus you are going to have to mount and plumb that sucker somewhere that gets a lot of airflow. For what you are doing I would run a ice chest. It will work about elenvindy billion times better and end up costing you less money in the end because when you are running an ice chest you can employ one of the lower cost bilge pumps. And you can mount the ice chest in the back of the car out of sight and where you have more room. And if you need to you can always run it with just water in it. If the ice chest is aluminum it will shed quite a bit of heat.

Thanks again for the info. It looks like it has 3/4" NPT or around a 12AN fitting so I will have to go bigger? You sound like you have done this a couple times so any suggestions on which one to go with would be great!

You answered my question about the heat exchanger plus I'm starting to run out of room as it sits already. I love the idea of running a ice chest as you suggested. This will be the direction I will go.

[sqidd]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

Thanks again for the info. It looks like it has 3/4" NPT or around a 12AN fitting so I will have to go bigger? You sound like you have done this a couple times so any suggestions on which one to go with would be great!

Yeah, more than a few times. I've done so much testing that a couple of the pump companies call me for info, LOL!

-12 is dismal. It is common, but dismal. The only way to get -12 to work the way you are going to need it to will require the use of the Lingenfelter super duper boom diggidy pump (it's a hot roded Steward Warner pump) that costs about $600 and pulls a TON of amps. With that pump you will move about 9.5gpm (gallons/minute).Which is decent, but nothing to write home about.

If you run any of the other pumps out there at -12 you will be looking at about 6.5-7.5gpm.

If you run -16 you can move about 15gpm with a $100 Rule 2000 bilge pump.

If you run -20 you can get a little over 20gpm with the next size up Rule 3700 bilge pump. They are about $175.

Line/fitting size is the key.

What sort of boost will that A2W IC see?

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by sqidd

Yeah, more than a few times. I've done so much testing that a couple of the pump companies call me for info, LOL!

-12 is dismal. It is common, but dismal. The only way to get -12 to work the way you are going to need it to will require the use of the Lingenfelter super duper boom diggidy pump (it's a hot roded Steward Warner pump) that costs about $600 and pulls a TON of amps. With that pump you will move about 9.5gpm (gallons/minute).Which is decent, but nothing to write home about.

If you run any of the other pumps out there at -12 you will be looking at about 6.5-7.5gpm.

If you run -16 you can move about 15gpm with a $100 Rule 2000 bilge pump.

If you run -20 you can get a little over 20gpm with the next size up Rule 3700 bilge pump. They are about $175.

Line/fitting size is the key.

What sort of boost will that A2W IC see?

That helps me a lot!!! Thanks!!!

Max boost on the LP turbo and A2W will be 32psi.

[sqidd]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

That helps me a lot!!! Thanks!!!

Max boost on the LP turbo and A2W will be 32psi.

32psi is going to be about 425deg! Which is not screwing around one bit. I've seen cars with IC's about the same as yours VAPORIZE the water at 275deg with a 6gpm water flow! VAPORIZE! Not good. The solution is to move the water though the IC faster. At 32psi you are going to want at least 15gpm.

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by sqidd

32psi is going to be about 425deg! Which is not screwing around one bit. I've seen cars with IC's about the same as yours VAPORIZE the water at 275deg with a 6gpm water flow! VAPORIZE! Not good. The solution is to move the water though the IC faster. At 32psi you are going to want at least 15gpm.

Thanks again!!! So now I kind of know what I should be looking for.

Do you for see any problems of not running the water pump when I'm just driving around on the streets and trying to get the best gas mileage?
My pump gasoline tune will only be around 14psi on the LP turbo, but for the most part I will never even get into boost.

[RobertISaar]

no boost, no resulting rise in airmass temp from compressing air.

i would say you'll be fine as long as you don't start seeing more than atmospheric air pressure in the intake.

[sqidd]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

Thanks again!!! So now I kind of know what I should be looking for.

Do you for see any problems of not running the water pump when I'm just driving around on the streets and trying to get the best gas mileage?
My pump gasoline tune will only be around 14psi on the LP turbo, but for the most part I will never even get into boost.

As long as your not in the boost you don't need to run the pump. Just keep in mind that the bilge pumps aren't real happy about hot water. They weren't designed for that. If you do run a bunch of boost and really heat soak the water it could kill the pump. That said a pump that will deal with the heat well and pumps a good volume of water will set you back $500. You could smoke 4-5 Rule pumps before you got to that threshold.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to put the pump on a hobbs switch so it comes on automatically at 10psi. They are cheap.